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 reattaching the exterior teak pieces
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karentc
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/22/2004 :  13:51:57  Show Profile
Hi!
I removed the exterior teak trim pieces from the cabintop last fall(all but the companionway trim) and have them refinished and ready to put back on. Noticed that the undersides of the teak looked a little moldy before refinishing and wondered if there is anything to put between the teak and the cabintop before reattaching... Also since this is my first time messing with taking anything apart (yikes!) what do I put in the screw holes before putting the screws back in to seal them up??? Thanks so much!

Karen Christensen
Moondance, 1986 C25, #5465
Traverse City, Michigan

Karen Christensen
Moondance, #5465 1986 C-25, SR, FK, Honda 8
Traverse City, Michigan

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falco_esq
1st Mate

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USA
60 Posts

Response Posted - 05/22/2004 :  14:46:38  Show Profile
I would put a little silicon on the screws. But that's just me. These guys will know for sure!


<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by karentc</i>
<br />Hi!
I removed the exterior teak trim pieces from the cabintop last fall(all but the companionway trim) and have them refinished and ready to put back on. Noticed that the undersides of the teak looked a little moldy before refinishing and wondered if there is anything to put between the teak and the cabintop before reattaching... Also since this is my first time messing with taking anything apart (yikes!) what do I put in the screw holes before putting the screws back in to seal them up??? Thanks so much!

Karen Christensen
Moondance, 1986 C25, #5465
Traverse City, Michigan

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 05/22/2004 :  15:45:55  Show Profile
I re-bedded my teak using 3M 101... which is my favorite bedding compound. Be sure to have plenty of rags and some paint thinner or diesel handy to dress things up.

Bed the teak with an nice layer of caulk underneath and just 'snug things up' so it squeezes a bit (but not too much) of the bedding compound out all around the base. Clean up the edges to a nice 'bead' and then wait a few days to let the bedding compound cure before putting the final torque on the screws.

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3323 Posts

Response Posted - 05/22/2004 :  16:53:09  Show Profile
Karen - the important thing to remember is that it is a 2 person job! The handrails curve and you need a 2nd body outside the boat to gently curve the rails as you screw them into place. I start at the aft end and insert one screw at a time going forward. Cleanup is easier if you tape the footprint of the rails before applying the sealant. After it sets up it's easy to lift off the surplus sealant with the tape.
Derek

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RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 05/22/2004 :  20:59:11  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">tape the footprint of the rails before applying the sealant<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I did this by loosely dry-fitting the wood pieces first (without sealant). Then you can see exactly where to tape (I used the blue stuff).

Also, I used LifeSeal, which in theory has a bit less adhesive qualities than the 101, 4200, etc., but a bit more adhesion than silicone gives you. The 101 may be the most popular bedding compound, but I heard stories that it can be tough to clean up the old residue the next time around.

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Gary B.
Admiral

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USA
969 Posts

Response Posted - 05/23/2004 :  14:16:48  Show Profile
I have used Boat Life "Life Caulk" in these applications. Put a bead in the screw hole and all the way around it. When the stuff oozes out after drawing the screws tight, I personally simply wait a couple of days for it to set up well, then use a razor knife to cut the stuff right at the line of the teak and the excess lifts right off.

I really don't think silicone is nearly as good as one of the white "caulking compounds" i.e. polysufide, which are made for this. Whatever you do, do NOT use 3Ms 5200! It will NEVER let go!

Gary B.
Vice Commodore
s/v Encore! #685 SK/SR


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