Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Ok guys/girls. Im in the process of trying to insulate the cooler. I took out the house/pink blanket insulation that previous owner had put in-it was not doing much. Thought Id be smart and get some "Great Stuff" expanding polyurethane foam and spray on the cooler. Well that doesnt work worth a tinkerers damn. The stuff falls off the cooler. I tried spraying a mist of water on the cooler but it still falls off. Anyone have a better idea of how to insulate the cooler? One of those, "this will only take about 20 minutes" jobs that has whipped my butt. Thanks for the help/suggestions. Jesse
You are absolutely correct Jessie, without support the spray on foam will fall off in gobs and is really nasty to clean off of anything it touches. In fact it pretty much doesn't come off, PERIOD!! But you know this already. I used pieces of cardboard to form a sort of forming box. You will probably need to cut the side and bottom panels and then assemble them in the area below the cooler. Can you picture tight and awkward. Once assembled, lift and tape it in place. Add Foam and maybe even hold in place by hand because it is going to want to fall. Some folks don't use the cooler, but after insulating we can keep food cold very well for week end trips. We also cut piece of thin flexable foam insulation to place over the food to reduce the volumn of air above the ice and food. This has made quite a difference in how long the ice lasts. Hope this helps.
Ed Montague on 'Yahoo' 1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette
I haven't done that project yet, but I was thinking of getting a good rigid foam sheet, cut pieces to fit each side of the cooler and use the expandable foam to coat the side and squish the rigid sheet into. Then duct tape the foam sheet until the spray foam sets. Seems like it would work.
I did what you propose -- sort of. I cut and fit two layers of rigid, foil-faced foam around the box, taped the seams, and injected foam into the voids. Worked well.
I think if you put the expanding foam on the rigid foam and try to push it into place, it will be a messy mistake!
Hmmmm. . .good point. Now I'm picturing me pushing the rigid foam coated with expandable foam into place while the expandable foam is trying to, well, expand. Kinda like a slow motion explosion.
I insulated the cooler on Abacus. I used 3 inch styrofoam that I got from a scrap heap at an industrial refrigerator manufacturing plant.
I cut multiple 4 to 5 inch wide pieces (to make my life easier when trying to install the insulation) and initially glued them in place with 5200. DO NOT use 5200 as it dissolved part of the styrofoam insulation. I reattached the insulation with Liquid Nails (bathroom version). Have not had detachment since.
For areas that the 3 inch styro would not fit, I purchased a sheet of 1/2 inch styro from Home Depot (its in the lumber section). The 1/2 I cut into managable strips and placed in position. The insulation that I glued to the bottom of the ice box holds (covers) all the rest of the insulation. Small left over gaps can be insulated with Great Stuff.
I attached two 1/2 inch strips to the bottom of my icebox lid. I also lay a sheet of "blue ice" over the food in the ice box.
Ice will last a weekend during the summer in the Florida Keys.
Just read an article where a small cooler is filled with ice cubes. This is then placed inside the ice box. Cubes should last a few days. I haven't tried this yet, but it sounds like it would work.
I agree with Albert of "Abacus". Liquid Nails worked well, but the vapors will kill you, so be carefull. The sheets I used were either 1/2" or 3/4", as it was done 9 yrs ago and I can not recall. Non-expanding foam is a better choice. The aft side is a pain to get to, ans should be done first, followed by the outboard side. This is no 20 minute job. And be carefull of the vapors from Liquid Nails! I also glued a sheet of insulation to the access cover. Maybe this spring I will relocate the drain aft, to facilitate proper drainage. I have, many moons ago, asked friends to go to the foc'sle to have her drain all the way, so my hands would not freeze so much, while using a small squeegee and then sponge, to empty the remaing water.
Fair winds and following seas, _/) ~~~~ Captain Frank P. Grande Goddess of the Sea Cruises Sailing Adventures in Maine www.goddesscruise.com capfrank@mint.net 207-877-7824
Captain Frank - I had the same drainage problem and couldn't access the aft end of the ice box (DPO had attempted the expanding foam trick - which had merely made a mess!). I glassed in a piece of plywood with a 1" wedge at the aft end and then filled any spaces with resin. Then redrilled thru' to the original drain hole. It has worked perfectly. Derek on "This Side Up"
Derek, What a great idea! I am not sure I would enjoy working in such a confined space. I will get a better idea of how involved it is, and also think of of just drilling a hole at the point water collects, and tee'ing off the existing hose. I also need to install a foot pump for fresh water to supply the galley sink, that I have purchased last year. Drilled the hole below the cabinet door, and that is as far as I progressed.
Fair winds and following seas, _/) ~~~~ Captain Frank P. Grande Goddess of the Sea Cruises Sailing Adventures in Maine www.goddesscruise.com capfrank@mint.net 207-877-7824
I insulated my cooler a couple of years ago. I went to HDepot and bought a sheet of blue AC insulation, alum. tape and foam insulation. I put the blue two layers thick since they only had 1/2". Taped the corners and filled the voids with expanding foam. I now have ice that last 3 days in the hot Texas summer as opposed to 6 hours. John on Ms Achsa #77
Has anyone tried, or considered trying, finding a suitable sized soft sided or even styrofoam cooler and merely fitting it up and around the cooler from underneath? I haven't been under there to look yet (I assume you have to remove the drawer frames in order to do so), but would think that you could attach such a cooler with some molding and screws. If there is/are any void(s), I would think it/they would provide even more efficient insulation...the air in any voids would be cooled by the ice in the cooler vs. warmed by air outside the insulation. I suppose there would/could be some problem with condensation building up inside...
I insulated the cooler on Abacus. I used 3 inch styrofoam that I got from a scrap heap at an industrial refrigerator manufacturing plant.
I cut multiple 4 to 5 inch wide pieces (to make my life easier when trying to install the insulation) and initially glued them in place with 5200. DO NOT use 5200 as it dissolved part of the styrofoam insulation. I reattached the insulation with Liquid Nails (bathroom version). Have not had detachment since.
For areas that the 3 inch styro would not fit, I purchased a sheet of 1/2 inch styro from Home Depot (its in the lumber section). The 1/2 I cut into managable strips and placed in position. The insulation that I glued to the bottom of the ice box holds (covers) all the rest of the insulation. Small left over gaps can be insulated with Great Stuff.
I attached two 1/2 inch strips to the bottom of my icebox lid. I also lay a sheet of "blue ice" over the food in the ice box.
Ice will last a weekend during the summer in the Florida Keys.
Just read an article where a small cooler is filled with ice cubes. This is then placed inside the ice box. Cubes should last a few days. I haven't tried this yet, but it sounds like it would work.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.