Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My dealer ran the outboard electrical through the gas vent, into the gas locker, and drove a thru-hull into the battery compartment. Of course, once I read the Cat manual, I saw the admonition "do not place thru-hulls in the gas locker"...
Where do most folks route the cables? What kind of thru-hull do you use to deal with cable that size and still maintain water-tightness?
Thanks -
Kevin 'wait for me' 250 wk with a hole in the gas locker
our engine cable is installed the same as bryan's. i would definately get hold of your dealer since not only do you have your engine connected through your gas locker, but you are also having trouble with your stove. both potentially dangerous situations. good luck.
Ya beat me to it - I was going to ask if anyone had used trolling motor connections, and if so, were there any problems with vibrations. Guess you answered that!
Did you have any issues working with the cables in the battery compartment? Did you have to get to the back of the plug, or were you able to deal with it from the outside?
I was thinking of using something like the Marinco trolling motor connector, West Marine part number 2012573. Is that what you are using? (sort of looks like the catalog photo).
Coldducks - the dealer is working the stove issue - I was trying to find a solution short of hauling the boat back up to them (a two hour trip...). The motor electrical I'll take care of myself; I'm *very* picky about my work! (and I'll make sure the thru-hull is well plugged)
That is the connector I used, except I purchased 1422591 with my $10 off coupon. You will need both the plug and the receptacle. The only problem is you have to open up the complete battery compartment. I put all the wires on the the receptacle in my shop and then drill the hole and push the wires and receptacle through the hole, climb inside, put the nut on and tightened the receptacle. Be sure and follow the instructions for wire locations. Also I drilled a test hole in a piece of thin plywood and if I remember correctly the size they recommend is a little large. I drilled the exact size rather than what they recommend so I would have a tight fit and lessen the chance of water intrusion even when sealed.
What do you mean by having to "open up the complete battery compartment"? You mean removing the rear bulkheads between the berth and the compartment? If so, any tips and/or tricks?
Kevin, you got it. First remove the small battery door, then the port side bulkhead, then the aft bulkhead. Just pull it out from the top using the battery door opening to grap on to. Put it back in in reverse order.
Do you have any idea where your engine cable thru-hull came from. The one that the dealer put on my boat is cutting into the cables? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
The dealer here in Colorado installed it as part of the commissioning when I bought the boat new in 2000.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Is that watertight, Bryan, or do you have to "mop up" from time to time? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I have never had to "mop up". It has never leaked during a rainstorm while I was on the boat.
I also have an electric start motor (9.9 Evinrude 4 stroke) wired almost identical to Frog's. His connector looks like a better one than mine, but it's basically a trolling motor connector. No problems with the hookup over about 4 years. It's very nice to be able to unplug the motor for service.
I have a 1999 250 wing keel. I bought it new and installed the motor self, an Evinrude 9.9 Hp 4 stroke. I used the cableclam deck fitting from West Marine (page 83, item number 540732 or 540757). I cut a hole in the center of the rubber fitting to accomodate both the starter wire and battery cables. It fits very tight, and is completely water proof. The only draw back is that I have to pull the cables back through the fitting each year when I take the motor off for winterization. I installed the cable clam and the ignition key both on the verticle deck wall just below the stern seat, within easy reach from the helm and close to the motor.
If you decide on this route, let me know. I can take a few pictures the next time I'm out at the boat.
There is no real need for a thru hull. My battery cables go from the battery to the fuse panel/battery switch, to the upper part of the inside of the transom (in front of the motor)...drill two holes thru the transom at that point, and insert two bolts with treads on both ends. Attach the battery cables there. The cables from the motor are attached on the outboard side of the same bolts. Makes it easy to take the motor off for service.
I ended up installing the same kind of connector as frog0911. Not too much work, and I'm happy with the results. Now I just have to cut off the thru-hull in the gas locker and seal the hole. Work for another Saturday!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.