Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm looking to buy a 1979 c25,it's rudder has a split running all the way around it.Om my c22 that would be bad news however the seller informs me that this is a form core balenced rudder and becuase it dosn't have the wood core it is not going to split or brake. Is this true or should I but a new rudder. Also the rigging has turn barrels and not turn buckles like my c22.Is this the orginal rigging and becuase it would be 25 years old should I replace it. Other wise the rigging looks good and so does the rest of the boat
Bob Armstrong 1979 c25 SK/SR #1119 GoodTide'ngs II Federal way Wa.
The barrel-type shroud adjusters probably mean it's the original 1979 rigging. Look at the swages, you may see a slight tinge of orange color where the wire goes into the swage. If you see this color, it means the wire is corroding in there. Best to replace shrouds ASAP. If the rudder is starting to split, water has gotten into the core and will continue to do so. Weight the rudder; if it feels like it weighs more than about 20 pounds, it is probably not a foam-cored rudder unless it is full of water. A fully saturated rudder, whether foam or plywood core, will weigh 50 pounds or more (water is heavy). The seller is wrong in telling you that the foam core rudder "won't split or break". Any rudder with a molding seam around it can eventually split along the seam from wear and tear, excessive loading, or water penetration. The newest Catalina rudders are somehow being manufactured without a visible seam, and these are supposed to be the "ultimate" rudder, but I have seen these only on new Cat 250's and Cat 22 Mk. II's, not on any older Cat 25.
Bob, Determining if it is a balanced rudder isn't a hard thing to do. The standard rudder has its leading edge form a straight line sighted down the pintles whereas the balanced rudder has a portion of the leading edge forward of the line sighted down the pintles. There are several sketches in the archives of both models
Having said that I don't believe either rudder benefits from a crack running around the rudder halves. Understand that where the two halves of the rudder meet a line formed by the joint of the two is normal. What isn't normal is if that joint is separating.
One cause of a crack like that (maybe not in WA) is freezing of moisture in the foam core. Another I've heard of is heat from sun on bottom paint when the boat is on the hard. Otherwise, moisture shouldn't make foam expand as it does wood. I store my rudder inside for the winter.
Many C-25s sail for years with a split seam on the rudder, but if you sail in much chop (which impacts the rudder laterally when you're heeling), you should be wary. The critical point is where the lower pintle attaches. At a minimum, I'd use glass tape and epoxy at least from the lower pintle area, around the bottom, and up the back to the waterline, and then expoxy in the crack above that (after letting it dry over the winter).
Catalina Direct sells the new, balanced rudder (for less now than they charged me ) When the core is dry, it's so light it actually tries to float off the gudgeons! Mine is totally dry after three seasons. (Note to self: Find wood and knock.)
This is a picture of a balanced rudder with seam splits all around. It seems common on these rudders. This boat is so poorly maintained that I cannot tell if these have not been fixed because they don't need to be or from neglect. I would route them and fill them if it were me.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave Bristle</i> <br />Man, I'm gonna be pi$$ed if mine does that! Frank: Do you suppose it froze? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> It could have but it is incredibly uniform, you would think water would migrate down and the ice would split it low. It looks more like a curing over time thing to me.
Looks like the boat in the pics has not done the upgrade to thru-bolt his gudgeons. If he is sailing with the balanced rudder, he is putting more lateral stress on the pintles and gudgeons (that force has to go somewhere) and should really upgrade. IMNSHO!
Seller claims to have new gudgens. the split is the same as showen above. thanks for all the helo. It is a good price for the boat but ui'm going to offer a little less because of the shrouds and rudder
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jwilliams</i> <br />Looks like the boat in the pics has not done the upgrade to thru-bolt his gudgeons. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Does somebody have gudgeons that aren't thru-bolted? I've never heard of that.
Bob: I forgot to mention a couple of opinions (something the others here will assure you I have plenty of...)
1. If you think you're going to buy, get a marine survey. Even though $3-400 might seem like a big portion of the price, it will give you lots of information and some valuable peace of mind.
2. Those stays are likely to be original--way too old in a saltwater environment. If you do buy, contact Catalina Direct (catalinadirect.com) about getting a replacement kit with bronze, open-body turnbuckles. With off-the-shelf standing rigging sets, they'll beat the price of a custom job by quite a bit.
3. While you're talking to CD, get their C-25 Owner's Handbook ($10). It's full of information and upgrades. While it's largely their catalog, most people here will attest that it's worth the ten-spot.
All the best--split rudder or not, you're looking at one of the best values in the small cruiser market. The company still supports the boat, and third parties like Catalina Direct are invaluable.
And welcome to the best support organization in sailing! The quality of this forum certainly helped to sell me on the C-25!
My rudder is the original non-balanced. It has that uniform dark line all around it. On mine it's just the molding seam. Completely intact, with no cracks.
I am the seller of the above discuss '79 C-25. The perspective buyer did even unship the rudder to inspect it. If it were cracked I would have represented it as such. It is not!! It is simply the ground off joint where the two halves of the rudder were bonded together and then ground off. It (the rudder) has never spent more than the summer months in the water since new in 1993, is stored in a heated basement in the winter and is light a as a feather. I not only claimed that the boat has the heavy duty guedgons, but personally installed them 2 years ago. Buyer never looked to see if they were the newer version. Since the perspective buyer feels I have misrepresented the particulars of the boat, it is still available at $6800.00. Anyone interested may e-mail me for details on the boat.
Much is often made of "cracks" in C25 rudders, both balanced and old-style. My C25 has a crack down the leading edge of the rudder, had the same crack when I bought it seven years ago, and will likely have it when I sell the boat. It bears watching, but on a boat that spends only five months out of the year in the water (like Steve's, the rudder spends the winter in my basement), the cracks on my face are of vastly greater concern to me.
Also of greater concern is the upper gudgeon. Any C25 that does not have an inspection plate installed so that the upper gudgeon bolts can be checked for tightness every month during the season should undertake this modification as soon as possible. I lost my upper gudgeon in a six knot tide and a brewing storm four years ago (in Gloucester, Mass, site of the "Perfect Storm"--though the book is anything but).
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.