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CDI Refit Kit

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JIMD
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/13/2004 : 22:56:54

Was wondering if anyone has tried the CDI Furler Refit Kit. I have an old CDI Reefer with the aluminum extrusions and would like to refit it with the new style drum. The kit is available for $270 + shipping.

JimD
85 sk/sr

Edited by - on

cjb
1st Mate

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USA
27 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2004 : 18:19:32

I never hared of a refit kit. I have an ond fuler also where did you see this. very interested

83
sk tr

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JIMD
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2004 : 19:36:40

I was looking on the CDI site sailcdi.com under the spare parts guide and noticed a manual for the kits and I emailed and asked the price. I thought I would see if anyone else has tried it before I order. Does'nt look like it, so I guess I'll be the tester.

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RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 07/15/2004 : 11:14:06

Jim -- It seems to me that the weakest, unrepairable part of my 23 year old CDI unit are the aluminum extrusions. Thus if I spent about 50% of the price of a whole new furler for a new style drum, the original, old extrusions (i.e. the weakest link) would still remain. Further, you have a SK and probably unstep your mast much more often than I, which puts additional stress on old extrusions -- this would make it seem that a new style drum is even less logical for you.

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JIMD
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 07/15/2004 : 23:18:45

Richard, I don't have a problem with the extrusions. I usually don't step the mast on the hard because I keep my boat at the marina on a cradle. When I do step the mast I don't have a problem with the aluminum. What I dislike is no anti rotation device. When I got the boat I thought something was wrong with the furler. I called CDI and they said just tie it off with a rope. Is this how yours works? Being an old machinist, I could make a bracket to hold it but don't have access to machines anymore. So I thought instead of replacing the whole thing I would just replace the drum. And the new extrusion will fit this drum if I ever want to replace it.

Edited by - JIMD on 07/15/2004 23:31:34

RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 07/16/2004 : 10:43:40

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">What I dislike is no anti rotation device<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

There is an anti-rotation device...

About 2 years into the ownership of my boat, the same thing happened to me (bottom part of the drum would rotate, when it's suppose to remain still). I kept it from rotating at first with a short, thin rope tied from one of the bars to the base of the bow stanchion. The guy at CDI said I did it correctly, but that I needed a rebuild to really "fix it". I now think he was just trying to sell me a rebuild kit (or a whole new furler).

After going about a year with this temporary fix, which worked, I started to cautiously investigate further. I found that there is a clamp/nut under the drum which prevents the lower part of the drum from rotating (it's been a few years and I can't recall exactly what it looks like). I'm guessing that dirt between the upper and lower drums caused the clamp/nut to loosen. Anyway, I tightened it up and put it back together -- perfect operation since.

Good luck.

Edited by - RichardG on 07/16/2004 17:23:40

JIMD
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 07/16/2004 : 13:24:23

Thanks Richard, I'll take it apart and see whats happening. The website does have the parts breakdown but it looks like some parts are not available. sailcdi.com

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RichardG
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 07/16/2004 : 17:46:19

I realized I made a mistake in my post this morning, that I should not perpetuate any "rumors" without confirming that they are in fact true -- so I have deleted that portion.

Anyway, here is the link to the parts breakdown of my furler -- [url="http://www.sailcdi.com/sp4opage.htm"]Reefer 4/6 Type "O" Spool[/url]. The nut (with washer and lock washer) just below the turnbuckle, which holds the lineguards tight between the Drum Bearing Top and Drum Bearing Bottom (and keeps both from rotating), had become loose. I recall there may be a nut beneath the Drum Bearing Bottom which also prevents rotation.

I'm not certain it's proper, but when I removed the upper screws holding the two large, plastic halves of the drum together and against the Feed Extrusion piece, I was able to slide the whole length of extrusions out of the way (up the headstay a couple inches) and hold it up with a small hose clamp around the headstay, in order to work solely on the drum. It was then easier to remove the lower screws holding the drum together without a lot of weight pressing down on the drum.

The screw threads in the Feed Extrusion were pretty worn by age, use and corrosion. A little JB Weld fixed that.

Again, good luck!

Edited by - on

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.