Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Anybody have shore power installed or installed it themselves? Are you pleased with the results? Can you provide a list of the equipment installed and it's location on the boat? Thanks
I had shorepower installed by my local yard. The connector was mounted inside/rear of the starboard cockpit "pocket", with a flip up cover as opposed to the more rugged screw on kind. The wiring was run up to a GFI outlet mounted on the ceiling aft of the area where the breaker panel is. This way the wiring you plug in hangs down behind the counter there and can be run just about anywhere conveniently. I didn't have a AC breaker installed, but if you are planning any premanent AC equipment on board, this would be highly rcommended. I've run all sorts of electric appliances off this without any problems (AC, electric heater, hot plates, TV, drills, vacuums, etc.). If you're in a marina with shore power, this is a very convenient setup.
The minuses were the installer made a mess of dust all over the inside of the boat -- I assume by sawing holes in the fiberglass. He also did a sloppy job tucking the wiring under the lip that runs along the aft cabin area. I woudln't think this would be a particulary difficult job if you're handy doing wiring around the house and have a few tools. I was having some other work done at the time and comissioned the yard to do it.
I had shore power installed by the boat sales yard at purchase time. It is located at the very stern of the boat, starboard side next to the outboard motor opening. It runs through a batter charger which keeps the battery charged full, and I had them install 2 GFI outlets. One next to the galley and one in the head. It works great.
our dealer installed it for us, he had experience and ideas. We only wanted a 15 amp circuit for minor uses, so he put a straight grounded connector in the back of the starboard cockpit pocket. It is out of the way and has a cover flap. He put in an in-line fuse and ran the wiring to a GFCI outlet located above the galley on the inside of the cockpit wall, above and perpindicular to the power panel. He then slaved a second outlet off of the GFCI and located it on the outside cabinet wall forward of the burner. It works great.
Shore power is great. The only problem with the way the dealers install it is they loop the outlets together with one common GFI outlet. A GFI outlet does not protect you from overloads it protect you from ground faults. Most marina's have a 30-amp 120-volt power supply to plug in the boats.If the dealer does install a in line fuse or breaker it is sized to the wire they run inside the boat. Usually a 20-amp breaker or fuses for #12 wire. This method will short you of 10-amps or 1200-watts of power that you may need one day.If they don't install a breaker or fuses this is the problem you could run into. Inside your boat they run #12 wire if you are running a 1500-watt heater and a 1800-watt double hot plate for cooking, on wiring that is only good for 2400-watts it could cause a problem. The wire will get hot and start to weaken over time and could melt before the breaker on the dock trips that could start a fire. I would recommend installing a small panel in the closet located in the head area. You can drill though the bottom of the closet and get to any location in front of the companion way through the bilge and the bench storage compartments. Run each outlet you install on it's on run of #12 wire from the panel and put it on it's own breaker (20-amp)this will protect the wiring and by plugging in appliances to different individual 20-amp outlets allow you to utilize the 30-amps(3600-watts) of feed coming into you boat. The electrical inlet can be installed forward of the port step and behind the head window this puts the inlet right above the panel. There is a 3" hand hole you can get to the hollow area behind the window. This location keeps the cord feeding the boat in front of the step getting in and out of the cock pit to the dock. Hubbell makes a good stainless threaded inlet any electrical supply house in you area should be able to get Hubbell products. Any small panel will work. Make sure you tie the two buses in the panel together with a small piece of #10 or bigger wire so you can use all the breaker slots. Use common house wiring methods to wire your boat and protect the wire in areas it can be easily damaged.
we just had shore power installed today. actually, it took a day and a half. everything is in the battery compartment. our main concern was that we didnt want all that equipment showing. at the same time we had an in hull depth finder installed. i never thought all that stuff would fit in that small space. now we can run everything we want. we did go with the biggest inverter we could, hence, we paid the biggest prices...but we cant wait to sleep under the stars (and have coffee perking in the morning...) we spend every weekend on the boat and it will be nice to be able to leave the cabin lights on and not worry.
Can someone answer me this? Why does a 25ft, 30A shorepower cord cost the same price($39.99) as a small adapter(15/20A male to 30A female with no cord)? Additionally, if this adapter has a few inches of cable between the plugs, the price becomes $47.99. Does anyone else see a scam here?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.