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RL
1st Mate

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USA
76 Posts
Initially Posted - 07/19/2004 :  08:54:52  Show Profile
Sailing yesterday and looked down at my feet and saw a small piece of plastic " target="_blank"> on the deck. On inspection it was half of the port side pulley/wheel that the traveler car uses to ride across the traveler. Before I repace the whole car, it it possible to just replace the broken piece?
Free Spirit
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RoofRoof
Navigator

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USA
186 Posts
Response Posted - 07/19/2004 :  10:22:53  Show Profile
Ah, just get a new one. I got my new one from CD for $30 or $35.
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Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1774 Posts
Response Posted - 07/19/2004 :  10:32:59  Show Profile
Hi RL,

Frank Hopper replaced the sheaves in his traveler car ... with any luck he'll respond to this thread ... if not, you could email him to find out what kind of sheaves he bought to rebuild his traveler car.

I've been looking for that thread for nearly a half hour, and I can't find it. I love this Forum, but I HATE the search function ... I can't count how many times I've come up empty, no matter what search technique I use.

Anyway, you should be able to rebuild the traveler car without a lot of time and expense. I seem to recall that Frank replaced the old sheaves with ball bearing sheaves ... he was very happy with it after he rebuilt it.

Good luck!

BTW, I can't get your link to work ... is it a photo of the broken part?
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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts
Response Posted - 07/19/2004 :  10:44:29  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
You need to get four Harken 160 sheaves for the bar sheaves and the control line sheaves and one Harken 277 sheave for the top of the bar. These are very nice ball bearing sheaves and make a world of difference compared to the old bushing sheaves. The car rolls like it should now.




Next I wanted to attack the control lines and improve their handling. I ordered two ea. Spinlock PX Powercleat, Single, Vertical Pivot, 1/8-5/16in. Plus 2 ea. Harken 1 1/8" Bullet Cheek Blocks. This allowed me to set up a new control system for the rebuilt traveler car. The Spinlocks need a fair lead from a turning block to work well when they pivot. The little cheeks work perfectly and mounting everything on the stern rail made it easy and strong. I am very pleased with this upgrade.

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ddlyle
Captain

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302 Posts
Response Posted - 07/20/2004 :  00:18:31  Show Profile  Visit ddlyle's Homepage
Very nice rigging.
Do you think the stern rail stanchions are over-worked?
(I guess not else you wouldn't have done that.)

I think many folks will refer back to these pictures and descriptions.
Thanks
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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts
Response Posted - 07/20/2004 :  08:35:31  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
Frank,

Are those Harken 160 blocks running agains the threads of those screws or did you insert a sleeve?
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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts
Response Posted - 07/20/2004 :  08:40:38  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ddlyle</i>
<br />Very nice rigging.
Do you think the stern rail stanchions are over-worked?
(I guess not else you wouldn't have done that.)<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Thanks.
The lateral effort creates a shear force which the SS screws into the transom and brass plate in the transom have no problem with. The forward pull is reinforced by the stern rail wrapping around the sides of the cockpit. How often do your guests haul your boat around the slip by a single stanchion? (Pulling from the very top while they do it!) I ordered the sheaves from harken on their site.
Edited by - Frank Hopper on 07/20/2004 09:31:13
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Charlie Vick
Captain

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USA
423 Posts
Response Posted - 07/22/2004 :  11:06:38  Show Profile
On a somewhat related note, has anyone ever figured out how to tighten the bolts on the underneath side holding the traveler bar?

CVick
PanaceaII '81 C25 #2439 SRSK
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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts
Response Posted - 07/22/2004 :  14:33:53  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Charlie Vick</i>
<br />On a somewhat related note, has anyone ever figured out how to tighten the bolts on the underneath side holding the traveler bar?

CVick
PanaceaII '81 C25 #2439 SRSK
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Yes, you cut an inspection port under the name plate.
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Charlie Vick
Captain

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USA
423 Posts
Response Posted - 07/22/2004 :  16:03:10  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i>
<br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Charlie Vick</i>
<br />On a somewhat related note, has anyone ever figured out how to tighten the bolts on the underneath side holding the traveler bar?

CVick
PanaceaII '81 C25 #2439 SRSK
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Yes, you cut an inspection port under the name plate.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Does that give you enough room to reach the bolts?
It seems you would need one for each bolt which I'd rather not do.
Actually I'd rather not cut any holes in the fiberglass but I've run out of options.

CVick
PanaceaII '81 C25 #2439 SRSK
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
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