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Refinishing the teak

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Kas
Deckhand

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USA
16 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/29/2004 : 07:48:04

Hello all...

Long time reader - first time typer!

Most of you already know my husband Ben and our baby Adventurous! Anyhoo, I'm refinishing the teak on our boat and have a few questions...

1. The PO had let the hatch boards get pretty nasty. I've started sanding and plan to use Cetol. Should I still clean and brighten the boards first? I tried steel wool and that doesn't seem to get rid of the gray spots.

2. Also the top 2 boards have white plastic 'vent-cover' things and the screen is in pretty bad shape. How can I get the small piece of wood below the vent that holds the screen down on the bottom off without breaking it? I'll try to post a photo of the last vent later today.

Also I want to send a 'shout-out' to Steve (of Captiva Wind fame!) I had a great time sailing with you and I learned a lot! Such as the definition of ‘excessive heeling' is very subjective!

Thanks in advance

Kelly
Adventurous #5553
1987 C25 SR/SK2WK

Edited by - on

Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1772 Posts

Response Posted - 07/29/2004 : 09:29:46

Hi Kelly,

So ... Ben has YOU refinishing all the teak? Hmmmmm ... what is HIS contribution ... overseeing the wing keel fix while you do all the work?!

The PO had let the hatch boards get pretty nasty. - Kelly

I can relate to that ... here is what mine looked like when I picked up my boat:

I'm sorry I don't have a good photo of the hatch boards after I got them cleaned up, but you can sorta' see them in this photo:

Yes, you'll need to sand the gray off. If you don't have an orbital sander, you might consider buying one (they come in handy for all sorts of boat work). You might also consider using oxalic acid to remove the gray, but someone else will have to expand on that ... I haven't tried oxalic acid yet. I did use "Te-Ka" cleaner on some interior teak, but I wasn't too pleased with the results (and that stuff is very caustic).

As for how to remove the small piece of wood below the vents ... a photo would really be helpful ... do you know how it is attached? If it is screwed on, removal is straight forward ... if it is glued or nailed on, you're right, it might break.

'Hope that helps. FWIW, the teak will look great when you're finished ... it's worth the effort ... good luck!

edited for grammar

Edited by - Buzz Maring on 07/29/2004 09:31:15

NYCat
Deckhand

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USA
12 Posts

Response Posted - 07/29/2004 : 09:36:55

The PO of Innisfree was a surfer and so the teak paid the price. This is my second year scrubbing (just with ordinary soaps) and I am just now seeing beautiful true silver grey under all the black. I had original thought of going the Cetol way but meanwhile found this method which makes best sense to me. Give it a look! http://www.marinestore.com/faq-teak.html?cart=31682463686592

With regard to the plastic vents I was a little luckier, my PO had built vents out of duct tape. Have fun.

Edited by - on

Kas
Deckhand

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USA
16 Posts

Response Posted - 07/29/2004 : 10:41:36

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">So ... Ben has YOU refinishing all the teak? Hmmmmm ... what is HIS contribution ... overseeing the wing keel fix while you do all the work?!<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Buzz...

Yeah, overseeing the wk fix AND trying to keep me buzy so I don't run up to Cleveland and "fix the original installer's little red wagon!" if you know what I mean. Ben did make a replacement hatch while I finish up the boards. I've got an orbital sander, should I use 60 grit or something a little finer and sand until the gray is gone? Teak is a really weird wood!

Maybe I'll just duct-tape the vents back on.

Edited by - on

Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1772 Posts

Response Posted - 07/29/2004 : 11:09:07

I've got an orbital sander, should I use 60 grit or something a little finer and sand until the gray is gone? - Kelly

60 grit would do it, but it seems a little coarse to me ... you might consider something like 100, then work your way up. No matter what you use, you WILL sand off a lot of teak in order to get rid of the mildew and other stains.

If you haven't read the info in Kevin's link, it's worth reading. They tout the benefits of a single part teak cleaner (vs the two-part "Te-Ka," which they berate). I don't know about their teak finish (vs Cetol), but it sounds interesting ... it would be nice to hear from someone who has tried it.

BTW, the website recommends NOT pressure washing ... well ... uh ... I did that, too ... I don't regret it ... it saved me lots of sanding time. I have a teak bench on my deck that I want to refinish. I'm thinking about trying oxalic acid, then pressure washing it off, and then giving the bench a good coat of tung oil. Maybe a similar technique would work for you ... apply some oxalic acid (or one-part teak cleaner), pressure wash it off (use a wide nozzle so you don't "pit" the wood), then sand, then Cetol ...

So, no matter how you look at it, (as the website says) it requires some elbow grease. The good news is, if you keep up with a yearly touchup coat of Cetol, you'll only have to do all this sanding once.

Good luck!

Edited by - on

Alan Clark
Captain

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406 Posts

Response Posted - 07/29/2004 : 14:44:32

If you choose not to sand you can do what I did on our Catalina 22 hatchboards to get the UGLY VARNISH OFF. I have a friend who has a PLANER...needless to say all the varnish and down to the good looking
wood in one fell swoop!

I than Cetoled. I will cetol again in the future. If done right, it looks good and is almost maintaince free. Our new boat all the teak is varnished-PO-and I had to re-do it this year. As long as you can do this right it looks good also BUT is brutal to get off!. I have also done the teak Oil. Looks great BUT a true maintaince headache-I would rather sail. Hope that helps

Edited by - on

Bruce Baker
Captain

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USA
402 Posts

Response Posted - 07/29/2004 : 15:14:09

What's wrong with grey teak? The reason they use teak on boats is because it's maintenance free.

Edited by - on

dhunt
1st Mate

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USA
83 Posts

Response Posted - 07/30/2004 : 09:03:23

Just finished the job you are starting. I sanded agressively with a belt sander using 100 grit belts, then changed to orbital with 150 and hand sanded with 220 grit. Teak is amazing stuff, very oil rich and produces as fine a dust as oak or maple when sanding. WEAR A MASK when sanding.

CETOL instructions on the can say to maintain a wet edge using a fine bristle brush and apply 'liberally'. DON'T! . . . I started with the hatchboards and applied liberally - about the amount you would use if varithaning or varnishing. After four coats, the CETOL had taken on a slightly 'milky' look . . . still SOOOO much better than before. On the inside of the hatchboards, I refused to do the 'liberally' bit (actually I was running low on cetol) and, after four relatively sparse coats, the finish is MUCH prettier.

I've always just oiled the teak and the maintenance is continuous. Cetol is the way to go . . . I see no value to liberal coats of the stuff. Lot's of layers applied sparingly worked best for me.

I also cetoled my teak cockpit grates and they are SLICK when wet. Does anyone have a suggestion for using cetol in 'under foot' areas?

Edited by - on

Kip C
Navigator

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USA
243 Posts

Response Posted - 07/30/2004 : 15:31:24

Hi Kelly,

Here's my 2 cents worth to add to what the others have said. Without seeing pics, I'd recommend the orbital with 80 grit or 100 if the teak is not totally grey, to get down to a fresh smooth wood, then 100, then 120 or 150. You could work to a higher grit if you want your teak to look like fine furniture. You'll be suprised at how smooth the 120 or 150 will feel. I dont' know about the oxolic acid, but some of the cleaners bleach or lighten the color of teak, personally, I like the darker color. Also, be sure to clean each piece of wood with acetone before coating.

Good Luck,

Edited by - on

John J.
Navigator

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USA
157 Posts

Response Posted - 07/30/2004 : 19:06:47

I wouldn't sand or do anything with that kind of labor yet. Get some Teak wonder, It will brighten your teak to it's natural color almost effortlessly and is not as rough on the wood grain as Te-Ka. Then you might wish to sand a little to get your surface to the smoothness you wan, but if you are using Cetol, it doesn't need to be as slick as it would for varnish. Try it,you can thank me later.

Edited by - on

cmckitrick
Navigator

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USA
119 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2004 : 14:22:03

Well I will put my two cents in as well. This is the first year with my C 25 and refinishing the teak was my #1 priority. I used an electric palm sander on the hatch boards starting with 60 and working up to 320. Then 9 coats of Z spar starting with 20% thinner and working my way to pure finish. I must say they look great and unfortunately I have no before pictures.

Some think grey is fine and there is nothing wrong with that but the look of that rich color and glossy shine as you are out there on the water to me is a thing of beauty. There is also something satisfying (to some) about bringing that beauty to life despite the many hours of labor.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2004 : 15:34:40

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Bruce Baker
 What's wrong with grey teak? The reason they use teak on boats is because it's maintenance free.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
No--it's because teak stands up to a marine environment when properly maintained. Grey teak has had the oil drained by UV, heat, moisture, mildew, and possibly freezing. Eventually, it gets rough, develops splits, and finally breaks--especially if it's under stress (as with bent handrails). Each of my hatchboards is made of several tongue-and-groove pieces. With no protection, moisture will penetrate, the joints will give and the boards will look like Buzz's picture above.

Edited by - on

jwilliams
Captain

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USA
357 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2004 : 11:28:23

The teak on Hey Jude looked almost as bad as the photo, but without the splits. The ends of the hand holds where you most often grab were black from the oils in our hands.

I used 80, then 100 to clean everything off.

A product called Armada was recommended instead of Cetol, because it would not orange. Hey Jude has had it on for nearly five years, with only one update. Still looks pretty good (I get compliments). Next winter I'll pull the teak off and do it again.

Jim Williams
Hey Jude C25fk 2958
SF Bay

Edited by - on

jheard
1st Mate

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USA
49 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2004 : 13:36:18

Everybody has their own method. If you are using a sealer like varnish or Cetol (I recommend Cetol, it lasts longer) you do not need to use a brightener. Brighteners are if you are going to use an oil finish.

It is best to sand with a random orbital hand sander as described above. 3 passes with the sander: 80 grit, 120 grit, then 200 grit. When you are done sanding, wipe with Acetone to remove dust before putting on finish. The first coat should be liberal as the wood will soak up a lot of the sealer. Later coats can be less sealer. Lightly hand sand with 200 grit between coats and wipe with Acetone. Follow the instructions on the can.

Dont forget to mask before sanding, and re-mask after sanding.

Edited by - on

jackfuller
1st Mate

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USA
29 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2004 : 19:16:16

Kelly,
I read the suggestions to sand, sand, sand - Don Casey writes how to do pieces for Boat US - I think it was he that suggested washing first, using a mixture of detergent, bleach and water with a brush. Teak is a soft wood and too much sanding can take too much wood off. We did this and didn't have to sand teak that had not protective coat on it like cetol. We then went the Cetol route.
Good luck,
Jack
'79 C 25
'Nasse Ente'

Edited by - on

fburged
Deckhand

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USA
10 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2004 : 14:23:31

Kelly;

The best teak cleaner I have found also is the least expensive. Several of the old timers at the boatyard suggested I use straight amonia and a scrub brush. I guarantee you, it will bring your teak back to the honey gold color in about 5 minutes. If your going to seal it after cleaning let it dry and then lightly sand it with your orbital sander then use might try everyday transmission fluid to seal it with as it lasts just as long as the REALLY expensive sealers do but I like the honey color and just leave the teak alone and clean it about every 3 months.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2004 : 21:24:47

Hmmm... What're the odds that transmission fluid has UV inhibitors in it? (Sorta like SPF-30 condoms?)

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