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use of genoa track

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cmckitrick
Navigator

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USA
119 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/12/2004 : 08:06:21

I've taken all of two unsupervised sails on my new C 25 and had a blast but I'm not sure I am doing everything right. I have two foresails. One seems almost like a storm sail and the other is oversized like 160% or so. How do I adjust the block on the genoa track in relation to the size of the sail? I'm also uncertain which stanchions have the jib sheet on the outside vs in. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Charlie McKitrick
Norwell, MA
Valiant Lady... for now
'81 C 25 SR/FK

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cvwall
1st Mate

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USA
56 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2004 : 08:31:27

A good way to start is to set the sheet blocks at a point along the track so the sheet lead from the block to the jib clew is on a line that is ~perpendicular to the luff. Then, depending upon the wind strength, move the blocks slightly fore or aft so that the jib luffs evenly along its length. Telltales of yarn or old recording tape set ~12' aft of the luff and at 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 the length are a big help. The sheets from the sail to the block are always outside the lifelines; whether they are inside or outside the stanchions from the block to the winch is a matter of which gives a straight lead.

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Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2004 : 09:21:20

Hi Charlie,

I like to set the jib sheet lead blocks so that the sheet approximately bisects the angle of the jib's foot and leach at the clew when the sheet is pulled tight.

What you will probably find is that for your large genoa jib the lead block will be pretty close to the scupper cutout in the toe rail under the genny track. For a 110% working jib, the lead block will probably be pretty close to a point between the two main cabin windows.

John Rousmaniere, in his book "The Annapolis Book of Seamanship" has a good description of sail trim and how to adjust jib sheet lead blocks.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2004 : 10:00:33

Here's a ONE PAGE sail trim 'advisor' that I'd picked up somewhere long ago.
It has 90 percent of what you'll ever need to know about trimming packed into a few lines.
Print it out, laminate in plastic and take with you.

---------------------

Sail Trim

First trim the main, with the boom pointing at the corner of the
transom (normal) or midway between the corner and the rudder (really pinching).

Next trim the jib until the main starts to pocket at the tack. You are now close hauled.

If you were to trim the jib first, as is usually suggested, you can
trim it to the point of not being able to fill the main even when it's
trimmed to the center line. Very slow, too much heel.

Check the masthead windvane. Trim the main so the headboard is parallel to the vane.

On the main locate the yarns back from the luff about 3 times the fore/aft width of the mast, on the jib somewhat less. Locate the yarns in the middle, 1/4 down from the head and 1/4 up from the foot.

When properly trimmed the leeward yarns should stream straight back and the windward yarns float upward a bit. If the leeward yarns are flopping around, you're stalling the sail, and need to either head up or ease the sheets.

The top and bottom yarns are to set your fairleads. If the top of the
jib "breaks" (breaks = radically change direction) before the bottom your fairleads are too far forward. Adjust so the sail yarns break evenly top to bottom. Adjust the main
similarly using the boom vang and sheeting cars if you have them.

Leech yarns. Place at the ends of the batten pockets on the
main and similar spots on the jib. These are for information on the
draft (belly) of the sail.

If the luff yarns are flying properly but the leech are floating to windward or up you have too much draft in the sail and the aft section is stalled, creating drag. Haul out on the foot to flatten.

Tell-tales. Fasten yarn to the shrouds about two feet above the boom. After trimming the previous steps you can keep your eyes forward and still see these. They should point roughly to the end of the boom.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2004 : 10:57:19

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Bill Holcomb
 ...For a 110% working jib, the lead block will probably be pretty close to a point between the two main cabin windows...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Bill (or anyone else) when using the 110 with the lead block at about the widest point of the hull, do you find that windward performance is appreciably degraded with the clew of the sail so far outboard?

I ask this because just last week, I was out in some wind and I reefed my roller furled 135 down to about a 100-110%. I moved my genoa lead car up on the track, but doing so placed the clew well outboard for a 110. This clew placement, along with the abysmal sail shape of the partially furled headsail, results in a poor excuse for a working jib. On my last boat, another 25 footer, the fairlead for the 110 was around a foot or two from centerline with the genoa lead car mounted to a track on the rail. I'm considering mounting something on either side of the mast, fairleads, to use for when I reef my furler to move the clew more towards centerline so as to increase windward performance.

Of those with both genoas and 110's, does anyone have any fairleads inboard of the shrouds for use with the 110?

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Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 08/13/2004 : 09:30:00

Hi Don,

The quick answer for whether your pointing ability is limited with the 110% working jib sheet lead block at the widest part of the boat is yes. However, since you probably have this sail up because the wind is stronger, you probably have let the mainsail traveler down to reduce heeling. With both jib and main sails at a broader angle, you won't be able to point as high. But, you will be sailing on a close reach at a higher speed - so maybe you sail somewhat farther but sail that distance faster.

As far as your specific situation Don, the partially furled sail with "abysmal sail shape of the partially furled headsail" probably affected your boats performance more than the outboard position of the clew.

Finally, if you can get your hands on the May 1995 Mainsheet magazine, you'll find an article and photos of an inboard T-track installation on a C25. This installation put a four foot section of T-track close to the edge of the cabin side on the deck.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

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