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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
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 Trailering
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sailorman
1st Mate

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USA
69 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/18/2004 :  22:34:58  Show Profile
After 11 years with a keel boat, I have forgotten what it was that I didn't like about trailer sailing-- the trailer part!! A week ago I went to Lake Lanier to pull "On Eagle's Wing" out of the water to drain the water ballast and to repair a broken anchor lite. My buddy canceled as I drove to the lake and I decided I would pull the boat myself, Hah!. My first attempt was at a ramp that was too shallow for even my water ballast. I moved to another ramp but by then the chop from all the power boats made the ramp a blender and I decided to give it a go on Monday. On Monday while driving to the lake, I stopped for gas and hung a trailer fender around one of the yellow barriers used to protect the gas pump. I didn't notice till I got all the way to the lake that I had bent my tow insert and was afraid to unhitch the trailer to extend the tongue, so back I came. This last Monday, with my buddy, we got to the lake early and after three trys got the boat on the trailer, water ballast drained and put back in the water. (The dealer is going to fix the anchor light at the dock). Notes: launching/retrieving is a two person job; having the water ballast empty makes the boat a whole lot easier to launch. next time we are going to blow the ballast (as discussed on this forum) before we retriev. Any comments from those who have done this a few times as to the proper way to get the boat onto the trailer? We came up with me driving the boat to the trailer and my buddy snapping the winch strap arond the eye and winching while I aided with the motor. While this worked, I am not sure this is the answer. Any other methods that work will be appreciated if shared. Thanks. Ed Schaefer

"On Eagle's Wing" WB/#643

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bear
Admiral

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USA
909 Posts

Response Posted - 08/19/2004 :  08:14:40  Show Profile
I have done this maybe five times in and out with my water ballast. I believe everything is governed by how far in you can get the trailer. At the ramp I use I am able to pull the boat right up to the
"V" block and snugging it up with the winch. I generally have the boat as light as I can get it, everything out of it that weighs anything at all. The boat must be centered on the bunk boards and the keel snugly on the bottom bunk board when pulling out. Trailer guides would help keep the boat centered coming out. For sure get rid
of the water ballast. I retreived my boat by myself just once and everything fell into place, no wind and trailer level in the water. Makes for a long day though, the more people who can help the better.
"Bear" C250 WB

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Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1771 Posts

Response Posted - 08/19/2004 :  09:03:06  Show Profile
Hi Ed,

Bren Peterson (bren737) has a C-250WB that he "dry slips" at Canyon Lake. Since he trailer launches his boat every time he sails, he has really got his technique down pat ... and, he does it all by himself.

If Bren doesn't see this thread and reply, you might try sending him an email ... I'm sure he could give you some good advice about launching your C-250WB.

Good luck!

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bren737
Captain

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291 Posts

Response Posted - 08/19/2004 :  18:26:51  Show Profile
Ed,
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Looks like we have 'sister' boats with mine being #642, off the line right in front of yours. As Buzz said, I dry-slip and have launched/recovered 'Ruah' probably close to 75 times and do it most often solo. I don't claim to be an expert but here's my take one it:

I agree with 'Bear' for the most part, the deeper you can get the trailer the better. That being said, if you don't have trailer guides at the back of the trailer to help 'trap' it, going too deep is worse than just getting it in. I found (before I installed guides) if I used the tongue extension and went all the way in to the point that I could drive the boat all the way to the bow 'v-blocks', the boat was difficult to keep centered over the bunk boards until I could attach the winch strap and pull her out. She would drift off to one side or the other from winds or the 'ramp chop' you mention from other boats.

From the photos below you can see the tall guides I installed. I then ran lines from each guide to the vertical winch mount of the trailer. That "V" of the lines helps trap the bow and keep it centered into the trailer without drifting wide. It really helps!

Generally, I run her straight into the trailer (crabbing into any crosswind) keeping sufficient speed for the rudder to be effective. I've done it enough to know just when to kick into reverse to get her slowed and allow for a bit of 'prop-walk' when going into reverse. As the rudder becomes less effective the guides and guidelines are there as backup to steer her in. I usually back in so that horizontal bow roller is just out of the water. As the bow touches the roller I put the motor in forward and let it idle in gear to hold the boat against it. I disconnect the fuel line at the motor to run the last bit of gas out of motor (it's a Honda). I then walk forward, step onto the vertical ladder on the front of the trailer attach the winch strap and winch her over the roller and into the 'v-blocks.' I wait a few more seconds for the motor to run out of gas and then pull her out of the water. I've also already opened the ballast valve so that it starts draining as soon as it's clear of the water.

One thing to watch for if you don't trailer often: make sure you remember to raise your centerboard before starting for the trailer! It will stop you dead and do serious damage not just simply 'kick up'.

Here's some shots of my set-up:







A variation on the 'approach' to the trailer I've seen with someone on a 'stinkpot' is to tie a third line from the winch mount and tie it off to one of the guides. When you approach the trailer very slowly, just poke the bow between the guides and then walk to the guide, untie the third line and simply pull yourself up to the front of the trailer.

Hope all this rambling helps.

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sailorman
1st Mate

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USA
69 Posts

Response Posted - 08/19/2004 :  23:04:44  Show Profile
Thanks guys, especially Bren, good ideas. I'll be trying them next week as I have to practice for a trip to the coast this fall,I hope. I appreciate the info from "On Eagle's Wing" older sister. Ed Schaefer

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Bay Tripper
1st Mate

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USA
56 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2004 :  07:14:40  Show Profile
Thank Bren for you detailed way of keeping the boat centered on the trailer. I damaged my swing keel while putting my boat on the trailer in a strong cross wind. I checked West Marine for the guides and they only cost $100. The damage I had cost $600 to repair. I plan on picking up the guides this weekend and installing them ASAP.

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bren737
Captain

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291 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2004 :  14:36:03  Show Profile
Dick, Ed-

You're welcome! One other thing that helps which I got from someone on the forum (Arlyn, maybe) is shown in this photo. I padded the bow roller mount with blocks of wood covered with bunk carpet. That keeps the mounts from gouging your bow when loading before you winch it up tight.



One last thought. . . I bought the guides at West Marine but instead of buying the "taller" version which was more expensive I bought the shorter one. The 'tall' model is still WAY too short for the 250. I bought the short ones, threw out the PVC parts which slide onto the metal brackets and bought some eight foot PVC at Home Depot (about $10) and then cut them down to size so that the top of the PVC was about two feet highter than the deck of the boat when on the trailer. I don't remember the measurement but it was somewhere around seven feet or so, I think.

Good luck! Hope it goes well!

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2004 :  21:26:28  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
Great tech tip material Bren.

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