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Cruising Spinnaker Questions

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joegeiger
1st Mate

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USA
63 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/19/2004 : 16:00:29

I have a cruising spinnaker that I'd like to setup and use. It has a dousing sock w/control lines, the tack has a pennant to raise it above and in-front of the bow pulpit, and it has a single sheet line attached to the clew.

My questions are:
Should I run the sheet line like I do for my genoa and jib (on both port and starboard sides) or is there a reason there is only 1 line attached to the clew?

What is the best place to install the spinnaker sheet blocks in the cockpit? The PO had a large block attached to the port stern cleat with a short line. From there the sheet was led forward to the winch.

How is the spinnaker halyard run down the mast? The spinnaker halyard block is at the front of the masthead. Do I just run it straight down the mast to the cleat at the bottom? Is there a way to run it internally like the main and jib halyards?

If you were installing a cruising spinnaker, which lines would you run back to the cockpit to control it? Or is it better to leave all the lines run to the mast base for it?

Any other advice or experiences that are relevant?

Thanks!

Edited by - on

Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 08/19/2004 : 19:57:54

Hi Joe,

Here's some thoughts to your questions.

1. "Should I run the sheet line like I do for my genoa and jib (on both port and starboard sides) or is there a reason there is only 1 line attached to the clew?"
You should have both a port and a starboard sheet. Don't know why you only have one sheet. Each sheet should be about 50 ft long (mine are 1/4" StaSet double braid). Make sure that you have the lazy sheet forward of the forestay and resting on the top of the bow pulpit (forward of the tack pennant too).

2. "What is the best place to install the spinnaker sheet blocks in the cockpit? The PO had a large block attached to the port stern cleat with a short line. From there the sheet was led forward to the winch."
Placement will depend a bit on the actual size of the spinnaker. On Snickerdoodle the cruising chute is a full 180% spinnaker with an additional tapered lower panel to extend the tack corner. So, the turning blocks are on the T-track roughly a foot and a half forward from the aft mooring cleat. You didn't say what year your boat is, but if it's an '86 or newer, the T-track is not long enough - so, you'll have to mount the turning blocks to the top of the coaming - about half way between the forward stanchion for the stern pulpit and the aft edge of the coaming.

3. "How is the spinnaker halyard run down the mast? The spinnaker halyard block is at the front of the masthead. Do I just run it straight down the mast to the cleat at the bottom? Is there a way to run it internally like the main and jib halyards?"
You'll probably want to simply run the spinnaker halyard straight down the front of the mast from the halyard block to a cleat on the mast or aft on the cabin top alongside the jib halyard. It would be difficult with the masthead sheave arangement to run the spinnaker halyard inside the mast.

4. "If you were installing a cruising spinnaker, which lines would you run back to the cockpit to control it? Or is it better to leave all the lines run to the mast base for it?"
On Snickerdoodle I have the spinnaker halyard as well as the tack corner adjuster line run to the cockpit.

5. Other advice........The first time you fly the cruising chute, do not raise the mainsail. You'll be able to see the spinnaker better and practice jibing becomes much easier. On Snickerdoodle, I always jibe the chute by releasing the loaded sheet entirely - let the chute fly away from the bow like a big flag - then while turning the boat under the sail, sheet in to the new side.

Also, if your tack line is adjustable, you can let the tack raise up for broad reaches and adjust it down toward the stem fitting as you sail up to a beam reach or even a close reach if the breeze is cooperating. Adjusting helps sail trim a lot.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

Edited by - on

joegeiger
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
63 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2004 : 00:00:59

Thanks Bill... That's just the kind of info I was looking for.

I have a jib downhaul with a small block attached to the bow fitting... Could I attach the shackle from the downhaul line to the chute's tack and run it back to the cabin top cleat? It seems like that would work as the chute's tack adjuster...

The chute came with the boat when I purchased it. I thought it was a regular spinnaker until I took it out of the bag... The thing is HUGE... and that's when I noticed it only had 1 sheet line attached to the clew...

I'll have a chance to try it out next week as I'm sailing to Block Island for a couple of days. Thanks again Bill.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2004 : 07:57:43

Sounds like too much work Joe, I'll take it for $200

Edited by - on

Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2004 : 09:50:56

Hi Joe,

It sounds like your idea of using the jib downhaul line as a tack adjuster will work just fine. On Snickerdoodle, I have a double sheaved block secured to the stem fitting. On one side of the block, I have the jib downhaul; on the other the tack adjuster line. Both are lead aft to cleats on the outside of the portside coaming.

I wonder if the single sheet was in fact the tack adjuster line - but secured to the wrong corner????

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

Edited by - on

joegeiger
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
63 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2004 : 11:15:59

Work? I don't look at it as work Frank... I look at it as stress relief and meditation. The work is the second most enjoyable thing about having a boat... the first being sailing of course.

Bill, the double sheaved block is a great idea. The jib downhaul line I have is pretty thin...I think it's 1/4" line. You said you use 1/4" line for your sheets so I assume it'll be strong enough to hold the tack.

The original sheet is very thick (3/8") so I don't think it was the tack control line.

Thanks for all your help.

Edited by - on

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 08/23/2004 : 17:54:04

Joe,

One additonal thought. Rather than buy new winches for my cruising spinnaker, I mounted two oversized cheek blocks, built on a 45 degree angle, where the spinnaker winches should be. Each sheet is run through these blocks and forward to the genoa sheet winches. They have worked well for six years and saved the expense of buying new winches.

Al
GALLIVANT #5801

Edited by - on

joegeiger
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
63 Posts

Response Posted - 08/31/2004 : 19:36:06

I got to try it out last week while returning from Block Island RI. There was a 5-10 kt breeze blowing from the SW and it carried us straight up Narragansett Bay at 4-5.5 knots the whole way. I lowered the main as it was backwinding the spinnaker and, as Bill mentioned, it makes it easier to see what's going on.

I had a single swivel block mounted via a short line to the stern cleat. I ran the spinnaker sheet from the clew back to the swivel block, and then up to the main winch. I used the jib halyard to hoist the spinnaker and dousing sock up the mast and was a little worried it would get twisted in the forestay but it didn't. I was able to get the dousing sock completely off the sail and it filled pretty easily on a broad reach. Since there was only one line attached to the clew I had to go to the bow and manually pass the sheet in front of the forestay and then lead it back to the other side when jibing. Luckily I only had to do it twice so it wasn't a big deal. I plan on buying some low stretch 5/16" line to run down both sides of the boat so I won't have to do that anymore. :)

Questions:
How much more speed will I get if I use the main as well?

Should I try to run wing-on-wing with the main and spinnaker? The main seemed to backwind the spinnaker. What is the best way to use them both together on a reach? On a run?

How do I keep the tack pennant from ripping off my bow lights? It seems to stay on one side or the other but sometimes it gets caught on the bow lights.

I think it is a 1.5 oz spinnaker. What is the maximum windspeed I should use this in?

Thanks again for all your help.

Edited by - on

Bill Holcomb
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 09/01/2004 : 11:08:57

Hi Joe,

Some thoughts......

"How much more speed will I get if I use the main as well?"
It will depend on how much wind you have. But, you'll be faster than with just the chute up. Remember to shift the mainsail into downwind mode - - - snug the vang, cast off the Cunningham, loosen the clew outhaul, travel the traveler car all the way to leeward, and ease the sheet till the sail just touches the spreader.

"Should I try to run wing-on-wing with the main and spinnaker? The main seemed to backwind the spinnaker. What is the best way to use them both together on a reach? On a run?"
It is very difficult to run wing 'n' wing. You probably do not have a whisker pole long enough to hold the chute out. The cruising chute is best used on a beam to broad reach. If the main is shadowing (collapsing) the chute, you are trying to sail too low - come up a bit to fill the sail. Remember that the tack of the chute will let the sail trim best if it's higher on a broad reach and somewhat lower on a beam reach. I figure that the tack should be about 6 to 8 feet high on a broad reach and 4 to 6 ft high for a beam reach. Broad reaching, the luff edge of the chute actually should pull around in front of the boat. If it doesn't - the tack is too low.

"How do I keep the tack pennant from ripping off my bow lights? "
I have a 4" caribiner secured to the tack adjustment line on a 5" tag line near the chute's tack corner. Snap the "biner" onto the forestay.

"I think it is a 1.5 oz spinnaker. What is the maximum windspeed I should use this in?"
Weight of fabric is not the issue. My cruising chute is a full 180% spinnaker made of .75 oz material with an additional tapered bottom panel. So, it's a big sail. The TR sail area rating is 295 sp ft of sail. With full main and the chute up, I'm carrying 625 sq ft of sail. That's a lot of power. So, I don't single hand the chute in more than 10 or 12 kts of breeze; and with experienced crew, maybe to the mid teens. Besides, you can sail almost as fast with a main and 155 genny in the 12 to 13 kt winds.

Also,Joe, get a second sheet and the spinnaker halyard rigged. This will make things much easier.

Finally Joe, here is a link to the "Photo Gallery" section of the website. It shows me in Snickerdoodle with an interesting sail setup. The main is not hoisted. Both the 155 Drifter jib and the Cruising chute are raised. The Drifter is held out on the whisker pole and trimmed to deliver extra breeze into the chute. This is a terrific running configuration for light breezes..... although a little bit complicated to set up and take down.
http://www.catalina25-250.org/photo/snickd2.jpg

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

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