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Teak Coaming Box Trim Sealed?

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dmreece
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/06/2004 : 12:34:09

My coaming boxes have teak trims that needed to be resurfaced. When I pulled them, I discovered that the PO had used a silicone adhesive to attach them. It took a little to get them off in one piece. I had expected to remove the bolts and they pop right off. I have the trims resurfaced now and ready to re-install. Is there any reason that these should be put on with an adhesive?

Thx,
-dr

David Reece
78 C25 #454 SR/FK "T-Shirt" Arlington, Tx.

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 09/06/2004 : 13:46:30

I bed all my teak to prevent water from getting in behind the wood and causing deterioration. Bedding also helps strengthen the teak by improving it's contact with he underlying structure. Those teak teak trim rings are pretty flimsy... I'd bed them with Boatlife or 101.

Proper bedding and sealing is critical to prevent water intrusion in cored areas like the decks and cabin sides... (the area you're dealing with isn't cored)

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Dave Laux
Captain

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318 Posts

Response Posted - 09/06/2004 : 16:53:36

Actually most of those trim rings are only held by silicone and have no fasteners. Thats how ours are on and it works fine. 3M 101 or the other better bedding compounds might be too good to get the rings off in one piece. I Ceatoled our rings all over inside and out then stuck them in. Dave

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wmkoines
1st Mate

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56 Posts

Response Posted - 09/07/2004 : 14:36:55

My teak have been held on with stainless steel screens and no silicone. It made is easy to remove, sand and oil. I have a 23 year old boat with no problems. This year I purchased the plastic ones from Catalina direct and no more sanding and oiling……

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RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 09/07/2004 : 15:34:27

Mine had, and still have (after refinishing), no adhesive or sealer -- simply secured with countersunk machine screws and washers/nuts. I don't think going with adhesive-only would look good unless I glued plugs in the existing countersunk holes.

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Brooke Willson
Admiral

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USA
983 Posts

Response Posted - 09/07/2004 : 15:45:29

I resurfaced mine by buying the plastic trim rings from Catalina Direct. One less thing to varnish/oil/Cetol/whatever. Now if CD would make replacements for the hatch rails, the handrails, and the companionway trim, I'd sail even more!

Brooke

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 09/07/2004 : 15:52:21

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by RichardG
 Mine had, and still have (after refinishing), no adhesive or sealer -- simply secured with countersunk machine screws and washers/nuts. I don't think going with adhesive-only would look good unless I glued plugs in the existing countersunk holes.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Mine too are simply screwed in place. I haven't refinished my teak in 3 years, but when it needs it, I can simply unscrew and remove the trim and take it home to refinish over the winter.

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cmckitrick
Navigator

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USA
119 Posts

Response Posted - 09/07/2004 : 16:01:49

My heart is sinking as I am reading this. I bought new teak trim for the coaming compartment and painstakingly varnished it. West Marine advised a certain sealant but I could not for the life of me get it to come smoothly out of the tube. I ended up using wood glue and seems like a nice snug fit. But from what I'm reading it may be doomed to get water behind it? Any thoughts. Thanks.

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 09/08/2004 : 07:55:05

I like the look of varnished teak so I am always in the process of removing and refinishing various parts. In the process I have discovered some tricks that make further refinishing un-needed.
On new parts made from raw stock I have soaked the finished work in a mixture of west epoxy and xylene. The thinned epoxy soaks deep into the wood fiber and when cured leaves the wood completely waterproof.
The varnish that follows will not crack or chip because no moisture can get behind it and into the wood. I have parts that have been exposed to the elements looking freshly varnished after three years.
All wood that comes off for refinishing now goes through that process and what a difference it makes.

As for the combing box trim, I tried using 4200 some years ago and it was such a mess to clean up. Since the box needs no waterproofing I don't bother with sealing that joint.

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RL
1st Mate

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USA
76 Posts

Response Posted - 09/08/2004 : 10:01:35

Brooke,
I couldn't agree more. I've been looking for replacements and failing to find any we've resorted to having our local awning shop make us a sunbrella materal cover, same as sail cover, to cover the entire cabin top. It snaps in place foreward of the mast, covers the tops of the windows and then covers the cabin entry way and snaps at the bottom. Functionally covering all the teak, and the tops of the windows. This will protect the teak from the sun and reduce the water runoff onto the top of the windows.
Results, one small window water leak, planned for a winter repair no longer leaking, sun damage to teak reduced to sailing time only, less bird crap to clean off boat, can throw cover in washing machine.
This seems to have helped, but we'd really like to change out the remaining teak for items made from the same material as the combing box trim replacements. I wonder how hard it would be to make the forms and pour my own replacements? That sounds like a winter project.

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cmckitrick
Navigator

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USA
119 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2004 : 07:59:39

RL if I understand you, you want to replace the teak trim with not teak trom? If so Catalina Direct sells those.

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RL
1st Mate

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USA
76 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2004 : 08:18:42

Charlie,
Sorry, I must have been asleep at the tiller when I sent the first respone. What we are looking for is a plastic PVC type replacement for the hatch rails, handrails, and companionway trim. We've already replaced the combing box trim.

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Todd Frye
Navigator

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USA
222 Posts

Response Posted - 09/15/2004 : 13:10:56

Johns post reminds me of when I was a more excessive compulsive (than I am now). Boats have always been objects of great beauty to me. Varnished wood and polished brass…well, I start going into sensory overload. On one of our vacations back to my wife’s hometown of Nelson, British Columbia, I loaded up my current project of an 9’ long (1/2 scale model) sea kayak. I found an unusual grained piece of 2x4x8 and ripped it into 1/2” strips for the deck. Each strip was secured with 1/8” dowel and then 2 to 3 coats of epoxy were applied and wet sanded, “encapsulating” the wood in a durable and surprisingly beautiful waterproof coating. I then applied at least 6 coats of gloss varnish, wet sanding in between coats. Epoxy will turn milky looking (amine blush) if not protected with a U.V. inhibiting varnish. But what an incredible finish! Try it on a test piece of mahogany and see what you think. Todd Frye

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Lightnup
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1016 Posts

Response Posted - 09/15/2004 : 14:31:39

Bill Meinert wmeinert@hoosierlink.net manufacturers the plastic replacement pieces you're looking for.

You can see how they look (if you have good eyes) on his C25 in the Nationals pictures. http://www.fleetingimagephotography.com/ His boat is Long Wind.

Steve

Edited by - Lightnup on 09/15/2004 14:34:19

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