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 Prophylaxis for C25's		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts
Initially Posted - 09/16/2004 :  13:08:56  Show Profile
The discussion below of rudder gudgeons should serve as a reminder to all us older C25 owners, and especially to newer owners, that, good as the C25 is, it IS a compromise, and has some "cheap" features in it.

At the risk of pontificating, or preaching to the choir, I thought it might be useful to list safety items that MUST be attended to prophylactically on older C25's. (That means leave them undone at the risk of sudden disaster). Please feel free to add to this list:

1) Install an inspection plate for the upper rudder gudgeons, and replace screws with well-backed bolts and locknuts on both upper and lower gudgeons.

2) Replace older-style spreader tangs on the mast. The OEM ones on pre-1980 boats fail.

3) Replace both "to-hulls" with real thru-hulls.

There are numerous other projects: (replacing the 'curtain burner' Princess Alcohol stove; detecting and elmininating leaks (windows, rub rail, stanchion post mounts, anchor locker, lower gudgeons, transom thru-hulls; re-siting the mainsheet traveller). All these can make the boat pleasanter, but the initial list is one of "must-do's", or you may end up calling the Coast Guard on the VHF.
Dave on "Wood Duck" (#2616 - SR, FK)
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Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts
Response Posted - 09/16/2004 :  14:47:16  Show Profile
Hey Dave,
Thanks for the reminder, I'll check to see what kind of hull penetrations my 89 has when I pull it out of the water soon.
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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts
Response Posted - 09/16/2004 :  21:04:33  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Gloss</i>
<br />Hey Dave,
...I'll check to see what kind of hull penetrations my 89 has when I pull it out of the water soon.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
You don't have the infamous to-hulls--they were gone before my vintage. I have flush thru-hulls (countersunk into the hull instead of mushrooms on the outside). But I do have the little bronze plates into which the gudgeon bolts are threaded.
Edited by - Dave Bristle on 09/16/2004 21:05:16
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SteveG
1st Mate

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51 Posts
Response Posted - 09/17/2004 :  16:13:25  Show Profile
My boat is vintage 1983, how do I know if I have the early style spreader tangs? What do the old ones look like? What do the new ones look like?

What about the to-hulls? My drains only show up as a hole in the hull, with no bulb, or bump to distinguish it. Is this the old to-hull fitting?
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oldsalt
Admiral

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USA
578 Posts
Response Posted - 09/17/2004 :  18:07:24  Show Profile
Steve, the 83's were built with the upgraded stainless steel spreader tangs and sockets, rather than the weaker aluminum type. The stainless ones are shiny whereas the aluminum oners are dull looking.

Your boat was also built with the much maligned "to hulls" (with excellent maralon ball valves rather than the totally unacceptable gate valves) which amount to a piece of pipe glassed into place rather than a more durable through hull which is flanged outside and inside of the hull. If you see a "volcano" of glass on a piece of pipe where your hoses exit the hull you can verify that you have the "to hulls". At the very least, make sure they are tightly glassed in place. Many have chosen to replace them with through hulls; I'm not among them.
I can live with the to hulls, but if I had aluminum spreaders they'd be off the boat ASAP.

Through hulls or to hulls: a properly sized tapered wooden plug should be tie wired to each in case of a failure.
Edited by - oldsalt on 09/17/2004 18:24:53
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.