Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My '93 Yamaha 9.9 4-stroke is wired directly to a starting battery using some heavy gauge (not sure how heavy) conductor. The battery is on the starboard side to the rear of the water tank under the sette.
I have mine connected to my primary battery. By selecting the 'both' position on my Guest Battery Combiner I can charge both batteries. If the selector is on any other selection ie, 1 or 2 seperately then the number 2 battery doesn't get charged. Same with the dedicated battery charger and solar panel. I should be able to connect these charging leads to the combiner so that I can isolate either battery and charge them accordingly. The main disadvantage to connecting to the combiner is the possibility of burning up the charging system if switched while the motor is running. With the motor connected to the battery directly there is no possibility of accidental switching. At least that is the way it works for me.
And as an after thought, I checked my battery fluids yesterday and boy were they low. Lead showed all the way across the number 2 battery and half on the number 1. I just topped them off in October and the boat has had just day sailing all winter. Check your batteries often, especially if you have any charging system in constant connection.
Ed Montague on 'Yahoo' 1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette
I can make a copy of my '87 manual and mail it to you if you would like.
I have the hot wire from the engine connected to the central terminal on my battery selector switch, and the negative wire running to the negative terminal on battery number one (which is in turned connected to the negative terminal of battery number two). This allows the engine to be started by, and to charge, either battery 1, 2, or both. You just can't turn the selector switch to "off" while running the engine, or you will damage the alternator.
I set mine up not really knowing what I was doing. A little knowledge and dumb luck has made it work for me. Allen's schematic makes more sense. I am inclined to change to his set up. Thanks Allen.
Ed Montague on 'Yahoo' 1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~
I did not receive your email. I seem to recall that there is a problem when using this site's email links, so try emailing me from your regular software using allencl@ptd.net.
Nice schematic ! And I offer the following to anyone not comfortable building to that spec. - the safest scenario is to attach the engine alternator output leads directly to the battery (+ve to +ve, -ve to -ve). Avoid connecting the leads to/through a switch if there is any possibility of someone accidentally moving the switch to the off position while the engine is running (ie. the kids, curious guests) If the alternator leads are attached through the switch, moving the switch to the 'off' position while the engine is running can cause a voltage spike that might damage the rectifier/regulator, and quite possibly leave you without a functioning engine. (also, connecting the wires in reverse polarity will immediately damage the rectifier)
One more note on the good post above: I believe that if you have the alternator connected to the battery switch, you can cause damage even if you avoid "Off", for example simply by going from "1" to "All", because in the time you hand is moving the switch, there is a split second where the circuit it open. I think more expensive switches create the new circuit before they break the last one, but I'm not really sure.
In any case, another vote here for connecting the battery alternator directly to the starting battery.
Hmmmmm... I was planning on hooking up to a simple battery on-off switch (I don't have 2 batteries) because I wanted to be able to disable the electric starter when away from the boat. I figured I'd remember to turn it on because the starter wouldn't crank if I didn't.
Another issue for me (posted here once before) is that the Honda now has 6' hard-wired heavy-guage cables, and the battery is more like 15' away (including turns). I need to connect to something that in turn connects to the battery--in such a way that I can disconnect it and get the cable out to remove the engine. The switch would be a good solution, but I haven't figured out a good place for it, or where to run the cable to get it below. I can't be the only one with a 2001-2002 Honda... Any solutions?
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT
Long, long ago (early Feb) in a forum near, not far far away, I posted the solution that I came up with for connecting from the engine to the battery. It involves getting shore-power connectors (bulkhead and cable) and installing the bulkhead connector in the transom on the port side.
The bulkhead connector is Marinco 304EL-B, a 30-amp power inlet with cover (plastic). The line connector is Marinco 305CRCN. There's also a cover you need for the line connector, Marinco 103RN. The cover goes over the connector and screws into the bulkhead connector, making a water-resistant (at least) seal (probably water tight, especially if you throw some caulk into the back end of the line connector). All these parts are available from West Marine.
This way you can get the power from the engine into the lazarette on the port side, where you can connect to a barrier strip, and thence run a long cable to either battery. You need to run a ground cable too, from the engine to at least one battery ground post.
I have two batteries, one on the port and one on the starboard side. When you have one is it on the port side? Just trying to figure out the options when I install my 2002 honda. I think I'm going to have the same issue, even if it goes to the starboard side.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I have two batteries, one on the port and one on the starboard side. When you have one is it on the port side? <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Shelby: My battery is aft of the water tank under the starboard seat. Wires from the old motor (with a plug at the motor) enter through the transom, with a small chrome hood over the hole. I'd like the connections to be below, with minimal stuff in the cockpit. Dave Gabel's solution is interesting, but I'm still considering a terminal strip and a switch.
Still looking...
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.