Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have my mast down this weekend, and am doing a few projects (C27). I've got three questions, any advice is greatly appreciated:
-- I'd like to clean and protect the mast - someone suggested using a 3M green pad and then "Aluma Kleen". I already have West Marine's metal polish, which says its ok for aluminum. Not sure though... I definitely do not have the time or energy to do a paint job on the mast however.
-- Also want to clean the rigging. Someone said use WD40 on a rag. Sounds pretty reasonable, anything to watch out for here?
-- My backstay is set up like this: a single wire comes down from the masthead, then connects about 10' above the deck to 2 shorter wires which go to aft port and aft starboard chainplates. Two years ago I replaced my standing rigging. However, I could not remove the pin on the top of the backstay (tried everything, including butane torch...), so I just left the upper backstay wire in place and used just the new lower wires. It occurred to me today that I could just leave the old backstay where it is, but also attach the new one on the masthead pin used by the topping lift. Then I would connect one backstay wire to the little wire on port, and the other backstay to the little wire on starboard, so I would basically have two backstays. Any reason not to do this? This is probably overkill for a C27, but it's easy, and removes the current reliance on an old piece of rigging.
Btw, here's what my masthead looks like. The farthest aft pin is obviously the backstay pin. The one 2" forward of that is for the topping lift. The topping lift pin is as large as the backstay pin - I don't see why it couldn't take a load??
If the pin is so seized that it cannot be removed you should buy a new mast head fitting. You bought the rigging to be safe, $150 to finish the job should be ok. That is only two dinners in SOCAL.
I drilled my pins out. It took a while using every drill bit size I had. It might be a cheaper way to go if the head fitting is still in good shape. If you cannot handle that yourself a machine shop sould be able to easily(cheaply) do it for you. Converting to a double backstay would not work as the wires would be too long. You would be removing the trangle at the bottom of the backstay.
Another poster here has reported masthead failure due to corrosion build-up in the pin hole. I can't remember if they lost the rig over it, but sounds like you need to get the pin out or buy a new masthead.
Depending on tools/skills available, you might try grinding the head off the pin and cut the center section out with a sawsall (or elbow grease and a hacksaw). Then the pin sections can be driven out independently, you'll only half the current holding force to overcome. Cutting the center section out makes drilling the pins out easier too.. if that's the way you go.
This technique has worked for me before on some stubborn stuff. This process will be easier with the masthead removed and (gently) clamped in a vice.
In general, I think I would stay with Butler's original design with one backstay and a split for tensioning the masthead, rather than a "preventer" to back up an old one. You are adding a lot of tophamper and windage.
On Hey Jude C25 the clevis pins were so corroded/bonded that I cracked the masthead fitting trying to get the forestay pin out. I didn't know that could happen! Bought a new one from CD.
In retrospect, I should have had someone helping me. I imagine them holding a piece of pipe, just bigger than the diameter of the pin, backed up by a heavy piece of metal, like a another hammer or a body-working steel, on one side, and me banging on the other. However, banging on SS will likely mushroom the cotter-pin-side and defeat the purpose anyway. So, I would first hacksaw off the cotter-pin-side flush with the fitting. Then bang on the pin with a large punch. Liberal use of Liquid Wrench, heat and patience might get the job done. Some say cursing or prayer helps, depending on your pursuasion.
I had years of experience with aluminum engines and trannys, where steel and aluminum tend to bond. So, anything SS that goes into aluminum now on Hey Jude gets lots of NeverSeize smeared on it.
Maybe I'm looking at the wrong picture, but I don't see two pins on the aft part of the masthead. I see two pins at the fore of the masthead, a pin for the jib halyard sheave, a pin for the main halyard sheave, and one pin for the backstay.
John, sorry - in looking again at the CD link in my original post above I realized that picture is of a C25 masthead rather than the C27 masthead that I have (which apparently has a slightly different masthead).
Many thanks to you all for the great input, I guess I know what my next boat purchase is...
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.