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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

bottom paint for c25

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bnpirate
1st Mate

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33 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/19/2004 : 17:19:15

I know this has been covered before, but how much is needed to recoat the hull. I'm planning on removing all old paint and starting fresh as the PO painted over chipped paint.
thanks all
Brian

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2004 : 17:53:16

One Gallon , dont waste money on expensive paint . Use the cheapest West Marine has and put one spice container of cayenne pepper into the paint. NOTHING will grow on it . Slim will wash of as soon as you day sail. It works. Proven and tested.

Edited by - Douglas on 09/19/2004 18:06:48

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2004 : 19:17:23

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Douglas
 One Gallon , dont waste money on expensive paint . Use the cheapest West Marine has...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
A contrary opinion: The cheapest paint is generally "hard" paint, such as Bottomcoat (or a private brand version at West or BoatUS). These are the paints that cause the problem you have right not--a steady buildup with eventual chipping and peeling. They also cannot tolerate being out of the water for more than a few weeks--past that, they lose their antifouling qualities.

Ablative paints are a little more expensive, but they wear away gradually, and can be exposed to air for extended periods--thereby making them "multi-season" paints that only need to be recoated when they're close to being worn away. The common method for determing when that is, is to paint the first coat in one color (the marker), and then put one or two additional coats of a contrasting color over it. When the marker color starts to appear at the end of a season, you know it's time to recoat.

1 gallon is more than enough for one coat. I most recently used West's private brand anti-slime ablative (I was told it was a Pettit paint), which I picked up on sale for around $100 for a gallon. Micron Extra is a whole lot more.

A friend tried the cayenne pepper idea and reported that he had as much slime at the end of the season as he ever did. Apparently the East Coast slime likes cayenne, and the West Coast version is more "sensitive".

PS: I just checked your profile and see that you're in fresh water. I can't speak to the antifouling properties of paints for fresh water, but the hard/ablative issue is the same.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 09/21/2004 22:28:25

Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 09/21/2004 : 20:55:22

I don't know that the less expensive paint is any harder. I just read the can contents and the exspesive stuff has the same things in it as the cheap on it just has a fancyer name. With regards the pepper it works for me. My slip neighbor did it to and has nothing growing in 4 months. Yes we are in salt water and the water temp is 43 Deg F. most all year. Does it make sense to have a soft paint on a boat that will be in and out of the water alot and rubbing about on bunkboards ? If I were in fresh water and trailering I wouldn't use anti fowl paint at all. I would put on a good barrier coat and call it good. Haul out when and if it needs it.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/21/2004 : 22:31:38

Agreed--trailer-sailing, particularly in fresh water, probably doesn't call for bottom paint. I don't even know if I'd barrier coat a boat that is in the water for only a few days at a time. But it might make sense after stripping the existing paint off--that might do some superficial damage to the gelcoat.

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5909 Posts

Response Posted - 09/22/2004 : 01:42:36

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Agreed--trailer-sailing, particularly in fresh water, probably doesn't call for bottom paint.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I would barrier coat any boat built by any manufacturer after about 1982 and before 1989, whether it is trailer sailed or kept in the water. Boats built during those years are the most susceptible to blistering, and I saw a boat that blistered severely while sitting on a trailer. The blistering took place where the boat sat on the carpeted bunks.

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bnpirate
1st Mate

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33 Posts

Response Posted - 09/22/2004 : 09:29:47

my boat is in a slip in afresh water lake from the end of april to the first of may. my previos boat would get a lot of growth on it by the end of the season but was not painted. this boat has not had the growth on the bottom with the paint thats on it. it is very rough though like i said it looks like it was just painted over chipped paint. i do do some racing and our c25's are very competitive. most races we finish with 1 to 3 minutes between the first and last c25 with three to six boats in the fleet. so i'm looking for any edge i can get. as well as keep the growth from happening.

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bnpirate
1st Mate

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33 Posts

Response Posted - 09/22/2004 : 09:31:04

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 09/22/2004 : 09:39:16

Q. "I'm looking for any edge i can get as well as keep the growth from happening."

A. Baltoplate or VC-17 burnished to a smooth finish.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 09/22/2004 : 10:00:41

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by bnpirate
 my boat is in a slip in a fresh water lake from the end of April to the first of May...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The end of April to the first of May?...My, what a short season!

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5909 Posts

Response Posted - 09/22/2004 : 10:05:59

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">this boat has not had the growth on the bottom with the paint thats on it. it is very rough though like i said it looks like it was just painted over chipped paint...i'm looking for any edge i can get. as well as keep the growth from happening.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">What you need to do depends on how bad the old paint is. If the chipped paint is multiple layers thick, then you should strip off the old bottom paint, apply a barrier coat (if it doesn't already have it), and apply a good racing paint. (I like VC17, which now has Biolux, a biocide that greatly retards the growth of slime, but you should still scrub the bottom, keel and rudder before every race.) This is a lot of work and a bit of money, but it will make the boat blazing fast.

If the chipped paint is only one or two layers thick, you can probably get away with sanding it just enough to smooth the chipped edges and then paint over it. It won't be quite as fast as if you do a complete stripping of the bottom, but should still be much faster than now. (Before you do so, however, try to find out what kind of paint is presently on the bottom, and be sure it is compatible with the racing paint. If the existing paint is not compatible with the racing paint, then you either need to strip the bottom completely, or use a bottom paint that is compatible.)

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 09/22/2004 : 10:30:58

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Steve Milby
 "...I like VC17, which now has Biolux, a biocide that greatly retards the growth of slime,..."<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I like VC17 too!

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bnpirate
1st Mate

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33 Posts

Response Posted - 09/24/2004 : 01:05:42

oops april to october. will be pulling out this weekend. it's starting to get cold!

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