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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
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 Genoa block headaches
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Jeff McK
Captain

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USA
389 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/08/2004 :  22:51:35  Show Profile
Has anyone experienced problems with the spring-loaded Garhauer track-car blocks that Catalina uses for the jib/genoa sheets?

My problem has been a tendancy for the lines to come in rather high on the winch, causing a fouled wrap. Could it be my technique or a simple case of the block sitting too high?

They have a Low Lead Car (LLC-1UB in their catalog) that looks like it will keep the line lower on the winch. Anyone have other thoughts on solving this?

Jeff McK
Formerly Event Horizon (sold)
C250 WK #805

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frankr
Captain

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256 Posts

Response Posted - 10/10/2004 :  20:26:02  Show Profile
I've had no problems with mine - how many wraps are you using (3 is enough) and where are your job blocks located on the track?? Do you take up the slack before wrapping the lines on the winch??

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2004 :  08:26:58  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by frankr</i>
<br />I've had no problems with mine -
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Do you sail a WK?

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frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2004 :  09:35:08  Show Profile
I had the same problem on my new boat. The fix, rather than buy new blocks, is to only take two raps around the winch and the third goes into the tailer. I have not had the fouling sheets since changing to this method.

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Jeff McK
Captain

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USA
389 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2004 :  10:18:55  Show Profile
Thanks for the replies. To address each question: I'm in a WK. The problem occurs most often with the blocks in the aft 1/3 of the track (when depowering the jib). In that situation there is a 1.5-2" difference in height from the block sheave to the point where the sheet line contacts the winch drum. The lead cars I mentioned would keep the line parallel to the cabin top at all times so it hits the drum low & completely eliminate this issue. The down side is they are about $40 each.

I usually take 2 turns as Jerry suggests, although a 3rd if the winds are stiffer & I need to grind that last couple of inches. I usually try to get most of the slack out before hauling, although that is also where the fouling sometimes occurs.

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2004 :  10:41:23  Show Profile
I used to have the same problem with my C25. In light air I put just two wraps on the winch and pull in the jibsheet, and never have an override.

In strong winds, I still only put on two wraps, and pull in the jibsheet as far as I can by hand. (You don't need that third wrap until you have taken up the slack in the jibsheet.) Then, I put an extra wrap or two on the winch and trim it down with the winch handle. By putting extra wraps on the winch after the jibsheet has been pulled in most of the way, you take the load off your hands and the cleat.

Jibsheet overrides can be dangerous, because you can't tack and you often can't free them up without first taking the load off the line. If you can't control your boat in a small, crowded, inland lake, you've got a problem.

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sailgal
Captain

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USA
400 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2004 :  13:17:19  Show Profile
Ever see the Forespar "Jaws" Vice Cleat? Used to remedy overrides in an emergency. Check out page 1053 of West Marines catalog....not cheap at 45.99 but nice tool to have in a "pinch"

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2004 :  13:51:46  Show Profile
As one who has experienced numerous overrides () I've found the easiest way to release it is to reverse the last wrap on the winch, take the sheet over to the other winch and crank like hxll!!
As Steve says, it's a bear when you can't tack - and need to in a hurry!
Derek

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bill bosworth
Navigator

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USA
172 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2004 :  14:17:10  Show Profile
Jeff;
I had a lead angle problem on a set of winches on a Cal 25 II that I owned. I put teak pads, about 1 1/2" thick under the winches and it made all of the difference.
Bill c250wb #134

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Jeff McK
Captain

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USA
389 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2004 :  16:54:30  Show Profile
Steve: I'll try to pay attention to my technique & see if it helps.

Bill: I had thought of raising the winches, but is almost sounds like you'd acheive the same effect using the lower blocks without having to mess with unmounting & remounting the winches plus the woodwork.

Suzie: I have not seen the device you refer to, but will give it a look. Costs as much as one of the blocks.

Derek: Never thought of that trick, but will file it away "just in case".

So much good advice. You guys & gals are terrific! Thanks

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