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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 General Sailing Forum
 Removing Hardware
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frich
Captain

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USA
418 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/29/2004 :  16:51:16  Show Profile  Visit frich's Homepage
Anyone have any special techniques they would like to share to remove screws/ bolts that attach deck hardware?

My first winter project is to change my cam locks for the traveler & chainplates. I was thinking to use a phillip head screw driver that has as part on the stem to get a wrench on it. Hopefully then I can get enough torque to "wrench" them out.

I am open for better ideas!

Thanks
Frank R
84 C25 SK

Edited by - frich on 10/30/2004 12:16:36

Oscar
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2030 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2004 :  19:57:13  Show Profile  Visit Oscar's Homepage
You can get different sized phillips bits to fit your socket wrench set......Also, I suspect there's a nut on the other side. You'll need a helper. Rather than turn the bolt while holding the nut, hold the bolt and turn the nut.

Oscar
C42 # 76 "Lady Kay" (Formerly C250 WB #618)


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atgep
Master Marine Consultant

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1009 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2004 :  20:14:33  Show Profile
You are getting good advice. Here are a few tricks gleaned form aircraft maintenance.

If possible always turn the nut, not the screw/bolt. The sealant and interferance of the parts will always produce some friction.

A screwdriver with vice grips attached as a handle will hold most screw to allow removal.

A speedhandle with a bit is the beat way as you have a nice button on top to put all your weight. I am talking about a large half in drive speedhandle. If all else fails, get the high speed cutter out.

Tightening the nut first(slightly) will unlock the threads and make it easier to remove.

Tom.

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2004 :  22:43:43  Show Profile  Visit Douglas's Homepage
Another aircraft tip. Put a dab of valve grinding compound or lapping compound on the tip of the apex bit. It will stop it from sliping out of the screw head when force is used. Coke used as penetrant will eat rust overnight. Transmission fluid (Automatic) make a great penetrant. WD40 will not loosen frozen screws because it is a solvent not a lube. WD means water displacing. An as stated above use a speed handle for pressure and force.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2004 :  23:38:34  Show Profile
I've found that WD-40 does about as well at penetrating and easing stuck screws as anything... It is a lubricant/solvent combination (oil and other stuff), which is just what you want. Give it a day to penetrate. As others say, try to turn the nut--that way, the bedding compound an potential corrosion at the head of the bolt will work for rather than against you. I often clamp a vice-grip on the handle of a screwdriver to gain leverage, even if just to keep the bolt from turning. (It can also twist the head right off a screw!)

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barmstro
1st Mate

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34 Posts

Response Posted - 10/30/2004 :  02:23:36  Show Profile
I use a product named Aerokroil from Kano labs. It works great on rusted iron or steel parts. Automotave parts places should have it. The phone number on the can is 615 833-4101.
I have know idea where that is.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/30/2004 :  10:42:35  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by barmstro</i>
<br />The phone number on the can is 615 833-4101.
I have know idea where that is.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Nashville. (You're welcome.) The Safety Data Sheet says it has about the same stuff as WD-40: oil, solvents, and propellent.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 10/30/2004 10:48:11
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frich
Captain

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USA
418 Posts

Response Posted - 10/30/2004 :  12:19:15  Show Profile  Visit frich's Homepage
Thanks Guys I am off to turn some screws

Frank R

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