Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Anyone have any special techniques they would like to share to remove screws/ bolts that attach deck hardware?
My first winter project is to change my cam locks for the traveler & chainplates. I was thinking to use a phillip head screw driver that has as part on the stem to get a wrench on it. Hopefully then I can get enough torque to "wrench" them out.
You can get different sized phillips bits to fit your socket wrench set......Also, I suspect there's a nut on the other side. You'll need a helper. Rather than turn the bolt while holding the nut, hold the bolt and turn the nut.
You are getting good advice. Here are a few tricks gleaned form aircraft maintenance.
If possible always turn the nut, not the screw/bolt. The sealant and interferance of the parts will always produce some friction.
A screwdriver with vice grips attached as a handle will hold most screw to allow removal.
A speedhandle with a bit is the beat way as you have a nice button on top to put all your weight. I am talking about a large half in drive speedhandle. If all else fails, get the high speed cutter out.
Tightening the nut first(slightly) will unlock the threads and make it easier to remove.
Another aircraft tip. Put a dab of valve grinding compound or lapping compound on the tip of the apex bit. It will stop it from sliping out of the screw head when force is used. Coke used as penetrant will eat rust overnight. Transmission fluid (Automatic) make a great penetrant. WD40 will not loosen frozen screws because it is a solvent not a lube. WD means water displacing. An as stated above use a speed handle for pressure and force.
I've found that WD-40 does about as well at penetrating and easing stuck screws as anything... It is a lubricant/solvent combination (oil and other stuff), which is just what you want. Give it a day to penetrate. As others say, try to turn the nut--that way, the bedding compound an potential corrosion at the head of the bolt will work for rather than against you. I often clamp a vice-grip on the handle of a screwdriver to gain leverage, even if just to keep the bolt from turning. (It can also twist the head right off a screw!)
I use a product named Aerokroil from Kano labs. It works great on rusted iron or steel parts. Automotave parts places should have it. The phone number on the can is 615 833-4101. I have know idea where that is.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by barmstro</i> <br />The phone number on the can is 615 833-4101. I have know idea where that is. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Nashville. (You're welcome.) The Safety Data Sheet says it has about the same stuff as WD-40: oil, solvents, and propellent.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.