Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Boat was hauled this week. The Admiral noticed that the gray bottom paint faded to a golden color (fiberglass/gelcoat?) near the bow and figured it needed painting. If it's down to the glass/gelcoat, then of course. Question is, since we're on a waiting list at a salt water location but expect another season or two to pass before we get there, can we paint the bottom with the sort of paint one uses for salt water existence, even if we don't move off the lake for a season or two? I've heard the bottom paint for fresh water is a harder finish than the salt water paint. How much sanding need be done in prep if we change over to the salt water paint, down to the gelcoat or just rough it up?
Generally, you can put one kind of bottom paint over another that is in good condition but worn. I would use an ablative paint like Interlux Micron and follow the directions exactly. Dave
I've never heard of any difference, generally, in bottom paints that are used in salt and fresh water (except VC17, a racing paint that is specially formulated for salt and fresh water).
What specific bottom paint is on your boat now? If it can be used in salt water, the chances are that someone on the forum has personal experience with it, and will tell you about it.
Generally, the only reason you need to strip your old bottom paint to the bare gelcoat is if it is peeling and rough, or if you are changing to a different bottom paint that is incompatible with the old.
If you'll tell us what paint is on there now, and what paint you want to put on it, someone can probably tell you whether they are compatible. But, whenever I have a question like that, I always call the toll-free help line that is on the label of the paint can. The paint manufacturer can usually provide reliable information about things like that.
I've used CSC Micron... it's pretty 'forgiving' and works pretty well. Ablatives make long term hull maintenance a bit easier as they don't build up over time and require extensive sanding before recoating.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.