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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have some gelcoat damage in the cockpit that is through to the mat. It is in a non-skid surface area. How is the non-skid surface done? I have the material (epoxy and gelcoat) to repair it. When I repair it, can the non-skid area be recreated or am I stuck with a flat touched up area?
Thanks, David Reece
David Reece 78 C25 #454 SR/FK "T-Shirt" Arlington, Tx.
Non skid gelcoat areas are notoriously tough to repair and get an 'OEM" match... often considered beyond the scope of a DIY project. That said, I recently received a complementary issue of "Good Old Boat" magazine that had several very good articles on applying non-skid overlays.
At any rate, one of the products was called "Treadmaster" which is basically a rubberized non-skid mat that is laid down over the existing non-skid like a floor covering. The application looks pretty straightforward and from the photos, the deck turned out 'better than new'. Per the article, it is very easy on the feet, knees, (& etc) and it gives a 'grippy' sure-footed surface.
The other article covered restoration of a non-skid deck with a roll-on product called "Durabak-18". Like the Treadmaster deck the results looked better than new. A google search on Durabak-18 will yield plenty of references and sources on this product too.
IMHO Either one of the above likely would allow you to do a conventional repair on your gelcoat and then cover the repair for a better-than-new appearance.
Good luck... if you do it, let us know how it works out.
Our boat has the smooth type treadmaster on the cockpit seats and deck. It has worked out very well. The sport has a less agressive tread pattern and is teak brown colored. The original diamond patern stuff is uncomfortable to sit on. Dave
Could you clean and spray another non-skid area with mold release agent and put epoxy or that flexible mold-making rubber on it thick enough that it would work as a mold for the damaged area?
Then you build up the damaged area with glass and resin, gelcoat as the last layer, spray your new mold piece with release agent and carefully press it down onto the wet gelcoat. It might take a bit of lining it up dry and making some temporary marks to get the non-skid pattern to match up, but I think it would be better than a flat patch.
Thanks ClamBeach for the leads. I have requested a trial copy of the "Good Old Boat" magazine. It looks like a usefull publication even if its not the one you received. We'll see. I have two of the white papers from West Marine, one on Gelcoat Blisters and the other on FG boat repair. The later is very good, but doesn't say anything about non-skid surfaces. I'll try a couple of things in a small out of the way area and try to post pictures here afterwards.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dmreece</i> <br /> I have two of the white papers from West Marine, one on Gelcoat Blisters and the other on FG boat repair. The later is very good, but doesn't say anything about non-skid surfaces.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Sorry, I misled you a bit - there's a nonskid repair article in the current issue of EPOXYWORKS magazine which is published by <b>West Systems</b> aka Gougeon Brothers.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.