Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have a 1980 Catalina 25 and would like to install a bimini top. Searching the archives, I could not find the size of a bimini for a standard rig. What height/width/length is recommended?
You are going to get some great responses. Some of the posters have done an amazing job of buying Biminis. Sunbrella Sharkskin Vinyl Aluminum Stainless Steel 3 strut 4 strut movable fixed Windows zippers
For those who reply, I would like to include this in tech next mainsheet C-25 Tech Ed article. I think it is very valuable info
Be careful on the width of the bimini. If you want to be able to move along the side of the boat to go forward from the cockpit, the width shouldn't be wider then the cockpit. I had to cut 6 inches out of the middle of the bows to make it more comfortable to move around.
here are some pic's of my re-worked bimini. this is a CD C25 bimini, that I cut 6" off the width. The base is mounted on the cockpit combing all the way forward. This spring I had a set if isenglas curtains forward and sides. I hope this gives you some more Ideas.
John V, great looking job on your bimini! Is your boat a standard or tall ring? You must have the standard rig cause it looks like you top would hit my tall rigs boom.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Ed Montague</i> <br />Be careful on the width of the bimini. If you want to be able to move along the side of the boat to go forward from the cockpit, the width shouldn't be wider then the cockpit. I had to cut 6 inches out of the middle of the bows to make it more comfortable to move around.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
My bimini is mounted to cars on the genoa track just outside the winches to both maximize cockpit coverage and to allow me to move it out of the way when I don't use it. This arrangement has not presented any problems going forward since I simply go under the forward part of the bimini through the companionway.
Although I haven't actually tried walking around my bimini to go forward, without handholds and clear footing, I can only guess that this would be a precarious situation on my boat since the bimini is mounted outboard and extends to the end of the boom.
Yes Nin Bimash II is a standard rig, and the boom clears the bimini just fine. Saling in the upper great lakes the standard rig tolerates the rough weather well. The enclosed bimini was a Godsend this summer while cruising on Lake superior where the water temp never exceeded 39 degrees.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> My bimini is mounted to cars on the genoa track just outside the winches to both maximize cockpit coverage and to allow me to move it out of the way when I don't use it. This arrangement has not presented any problems going forward since I simply go under the forward part of the bimini through the companionway. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
We had a large bimini that stood over the boom and could only be used with the sail down (the tail from the backsay went thru the bimini). We cut it down to sit under the boom. It sits one foot lower than North Star's (ours being TR) but otherwise looks the same. We are cutting/resewing the canvas so I have no pictures. Time will tell how hard it will be to go forward, the frame looks awfully close to the cabin top.
BUT being as pale as I am (and having passed the pale gene to my daughter) we need shade in NC!
[/quote] this is a CD C25 bimini, that I cut 6" off the width. [/quote]
John:
When you say you "cut 6" off the width", did this require re-sewing the bimini and welding the supports? It sounds like a custom bimini would have been easier (but maybe not cheaper). I need a bimini and am interested in more details. Thanks
Hi Dave, The catalina direct bim comes in pieces. the bows are in two and three sections. they are screwed together with inner tubes that help maintain ridgidity. I was thinking about doing this project when a couple of industrious mice made the decision for me. Aparently they love sharkskin because after winter storage the top was chewed up pretty bad. Since I was going to have a new top done anyway I decided to cut the bows for a better fit. I had an amish man who does buggy tops do the work. Instead of sharkskin we used sunbrella. Top and sides for the cut down bows was about $500.00 Imagine what you could get for $500.00 at City Island or Huntington NY. (not a lot) I am very happy with the result. Though I like staying dry and warm, there are times when trying to see a bouy or nav aid that the isenglas is a bit difficult to see clearly through.
Let me know what you intend to do, there are always less expensive ways to do things. people who do the same work but not for yacht owners tend not to know how fat some skippers wallets are. As for the rest of us, we will do what we can to save a little so we can cruise a day or two longer.
Dave, I cut 6" from the middle piece of the three that make up the bows of the bimini. I made no changes to the original Sharkskin cover. There was no noticeable difference in how far the cover wrapped around the bows on the sides. Everything was tight. I carry my bimini fairly far forward in order to cover the sliding hatch. I am only 5'8" tall and reasonably trim but I still had trouble squeezing between the coach top and the bimini to go forward. Tip toeing around the outside of the bimini was just plain maddness, especially sailing solo. Therefore the reduction in width. This past spring in preparation for the nationals and the San Juan trip, my wife and I used the old Sharkskin cover as a pattern for a new Sunbrella cover. We also made up a front window like John V. did. I made a pattern out of craft paper. The front window works great and I am still working out the bugs of the side windows. The side windows are made, just not attached yet.
And one more thing, Hey Gary B. has anybody thanked you for hosting the nationals today???
Dave, I believe I ordered the window material from SailRite. SailRite and West Marine both carry the material in different thicknesses and even tinted.
I don't know if you have a fabric shop around you, I got mine from Hancock Fabrics. It's lighter weight, but we can see thru it just find, and it's easier to sew with a regular sewing machine. You can also find it at an upholstery shop, little more expensive but they carry it in the different gauges.
One other place I have seen a lighter weight window material is at Orchard Supply. I also purchaced the snaps and twist locks at Orchard Supply for my dodger project. The window material was in the same area as the window screen material. Hope this helps.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.