Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
No thats what the admiral thinks I am, However I need to replace the 1 1/2" valve that (I assume) allows sea water in for the head. I got it out ok ( really corroded bad) but I am unsure if it is a check valve or a ball valve.
While we are on the subject being the novice I am, am I correct in assuming that when operating the head I must open this valve every time I use the toilet? Also the discharge hoses to the holding tank need to be replaced, must I be a contortionist to get the new ones through the bulkhead and fiberglass behind the head?
Frank, First off, I don't have a marine head in my boat. In my humble opinion I have the better solultion for boats our size, the venerable port-o-potti. However, I can help with determining whether you have a check or ball valve. The check valve is designed to keep fluids from flowing from one side of the valve. They are also called backflow devices and anti-syphon valves. There will be no handle, the moving parts are all inside the brass body and be either a simple 'flapper' or possibly a spring loaded gate. There is usually an arrow indicating the direction fluids will flow. A ball valve will have a straight handle that is moved 90degrees to open and close. A gate valve is simular to what you have on your garden hose bibs. Turn the round handle and the gate moves up and down inside the body.
Which brings to mind the question of which valve is best for our boats applications? I have a gate valve on the galley sink and a ball valve on the head sink. Would a check valve be a good idea between the thru-hull and the valve to prevent flooding in the event of the hose coming loose?
Ed Montague on 'Yahoo' 1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~
To Frank - - Yes, you need to open and then close the marine head water intake valve each time you use the head. If you leave the valve open, these marine heads have a nasty habit of starting a siphon action that overflows the head's bowl and puts lots of water into your boat before you notice the problem. Makes the day way more exciting than you planned for.
To Ed - - You definately want to use ball valves for all through hull applications. The are quick, simple, and pretty much fail safe. Other valves don't offer the same qualities.
For Frank - - Take a careful look at the fitting that your valve threads onto. If it is a to-hull fitting instead of a true through hull fitting, NOW is a great time to change. The to-hull fitting is simply a piece of threaded pipe that was pushed into a hole drilled in your hull, then the inside was built up with an epoxi putty. There is not much strength to that and the to-hulls are prone to leaking and pulling out.........another way to get way too much water flowing into the boat. A proper through hull fitting has a flange or mushroom that is on the outside of the hull (with a threaded stem molded to the flange) and a nut on the inside of the hull (sometimes with a spacer between the hull and nut). Instead of using the through hull nut, you might decide to use a proper seacock. The seacock is a ball valve that has a threaded flange and takes the place of the nut. The seacock screws directly onto the through hull's threaded stem.
Jump over to the General forum and have a look at my post on to hull replacement. There is a picture of a black maralon valve with handle. The small one next to the larger to hull is my water intake for flushing. The big one not quite in the picture is the discharge valve. They are not check valves just ball valves. If you have a correctly pumbed head system with an anti syphon loop and anti syphon valve you can leave the valves open. If you have the Catalina instalation not per Coast Guard requirements then you should close the valves when sailing. It is also now elegal to discharge overboard in every area I know of. I have instaled a pump out dick fittin on my boat to comply. (TIP) when working with the head plumbing (Flexable Tubes) use a heat gun to heat the ends so they will slide on or off easy. Heat the pipe up a little and make it more flexable. Im working on mine while replacing the to hulls. one last tip. Double clamp all tubes that go to the to hulls or through hulls and use stainless hose clamps. The double clamp is a fail safe and meets Coast Guard requirements. It will also help in a sale if the surveyor see you are in compliance. Its not elegal to be able to pump overboard but the selector valve to do so must be secured so it cant be selected to anything but the holding tank. Wired or tie wrapped is ok here.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.