Association Forum - Teak finish choices

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Teak finish choices

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

Page: of 2

Esteban
Navigator

Member Avatar

139 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/13/2004 : 23:41:39

Question on teak finish choices.

My exterior finish is badly in need of some attention and I plan to make this the last of my winter projects. I can't seem to find a goos web page or how to book on choices in finishes/products, finshed looks, maintenance, etc..

Any thoughts out there on where to find a "Teak care for dummies"?

Esteban

Esteban Diaz
Tally Ho!

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

3072 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2004 : 00:54:37

Esteban, I think you'll find plenty of reading on that subject right here. Use the forum search function on 'teak' and see what you get.

Summarized to a paragraph, I think you'll find most of us will do light sanding on weathered teak and then apply several coats of a product called 'Sikkens Cetol Marine'. Others prefer a similar product called 'Armada' and I think there are some traditionalists around here who use varnish or teak oil. A few even prefer to leave their teak a natural, weathered grey.

Lots of options.

Edited by - on

Dave Laux
Captain

Members Avatar

318 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2004 : 07:51:25

I removed all of our teak 4 or 5 years ago, sanded it a lot until it was clean and uniform, and finished it acording to the directions with Cetol. I've been very happy with the results. Since our boat is indoors or covered it has held up with only minor repair to wear areas. I would start with the Cetol light if I were doing it again but that is the only change that I would make. You have to remove stuff and coat all surfaces to get a good durable coating. Dave

Edited by - on

clayC
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
207 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2004 : 11:36:08

My spare bedroom is full of all of my exterior teak. I don't finish it there but just store it between coats. My boat had been uncovered in a feild for nearly 4 years and was in very poor condition as you can guess. I have three coats of cetol on some of it and it looks wonderfull. I plan to put three coats of Cetol Gloss on as well. I think I will use varnish on the interior.

Clay C

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2004 : 13:44:52

Esteban,
I have many opinions that are not commonly held. First a qualifier; I vaguely remember occasionally oiling the teak on my first boat in the early 80s.
I think Cetol is the vinyl siding of teak treatments. It is tacky but serviceable, so the serviceability has caused it to develop a following. I would rather be silver than orange. In fact I would rather be StarBoard than orange. (Others insert Cetol Light speech here.) If the point is low maintenance then just scrub the teak occasionally (with the rare touch-up sanding). If the point is teak to make people admire your bristolness then monthly oiling is the way to go. If you just have an anal jones then varnish and ignore the "why doesn't he ever sail?" looks as you keep it up weekly. This winter I would like to spend some time on my teak, whether or not I do it has more to do with the list of other projects I have than anything else.
Heck, I only scrubbed my deck once last year and while I admire those people who wash their boat down before they let anyone on it, I will never be one.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2004 : 15:22:14

I like Cetol Satin for the exterior teak because of its more subdued finish.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com
 ...If the point is teak to make people admire your bristolness then monthly oiling is the way to go. If you just have an anal jones then varnish and ignore the "why doesn't he ever sail?" looks as you keep it up weekly...Heck, I only scrubbed my deck once last year and while I admire those people who wash their boat down before they let anyone on it, I will never be one.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

For Pete's sake! Frank...we have C25's with very token amounts of teak trim not vintage wooden Herreshoff's.

Your opinion that people who tend to their teak have an "anal jones" and are subjected to looks of, "why doesn't he ever sail?" is total and absolute BS. If the first thing that comes to your mind when you see a nicely maintained boat is "why doesn't he ever sail?" then you just don't get it. When I see a nicely kept clean boat, be it an old wooden sloop or new fiberglass, I think of the inherent beauty of the vessel, not whether the owner "ever sails". Quite frankly, of the boats in my marina, the clean well maintained boats are the ones that sail while the ones that never sail look neglected and dirty, with bird crap and spider webs for as far as the eye can see. These latter boats are the ones that get the "why doesn't he ever sail?" looks. Additionally, I know of no one, including me, who maintains their teak to, as you suggest, "make people admire their bristolness". Those that do finish their teak are doing so because it pleases their eye, not someone else's.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com
 ...Heck, I only scrubbed my deck once last year and while I admire those people who wash their boat down before they let anyone on it, I will never be one.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

How can you admire people who wash their boats yet disparage those who like finished teak? Personally, I keep a clean vessel, not "detailed", just clean. The 5 or 10 minutes it takes to do this does not take away from my sailing (actually I wash it after I sail so it's clean and ready to go the next day) . Additionally, I clean the deck before guests arrive out of respect for them. As captain of my vessel, I take the safety and comfort of my crew seriously. Part of that crew comfort is making sure that my guests neither have to maunuever around bird sh*t in the cockpit nor wonder if I neglect the critical safety items onboard as much as I neglect washing the deck.

Edited by - on

Brooke Willson
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
983 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2004 : 18:47:00

Thank you, Don. My teak is varnished with 7 coats of West Marine Skipper varnish. I have the best teak in the marina, and I sail as often or more often than any boat there (at least every other week). Once you've put on the 7 coats, maintaining it is exactly the same as Cetol: one coat per year. And I prefer the appearance of varnish infinitely over Cetol. But to each his own.

I agree: the best maintained boats sail most often.

Brooke

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2004 : 19:40:31

Don, I love your passion.
I did not disparage anyone, People should do what floats their boat. I like the look of oiled teak better than any of the Cetol I have seen. From what I have learned on this board those who varnish exterior teak do little else because of water migration. I admire all boats that look prettier than mine. I am communicating what I am willing to do. So Esteban can consider it. You have seen lots of pictures of my boat, it is not a beater. My boat is maintained by rain and my tarp. If I find bird droppings in my cockpit I spot clean it. However, the birds much prefer the boats with furler sheets, I rarely have any droppings to deal with. I am always proud of my boat.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2004 : 21:21:03

Esteban... I agree with your intincts to attend to your teak. From all I've seen (and another boat I owned), teak left unattended (gray) deteriorates from sun, moisture and mildew. In the case of the C-25, you can expect the hatch boards to split at the seams, the bent handrails to crack and split, and the coaming compartment frames to break.

Aside from that, like Don, my eye is pleased by finished teak--to me, it defines the best looking boats in my club and in most marinas. Cetol doesn't look like spar varnish, but it's better suited to exterior abuse and much easier to maintain. I also like the satin finish of stanard Cetol, and am satisfied with the color, which to me is "orange" the way the wood trim in a Mercedes is "orange." Cetol light looks a little milky to me. BTW, I asked some Island Packet and Sabre reps what was on their boats at a show... Cetol, from the factory. Those were some gorgeous boats!

But to each his own.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 11/14/2004 21:27:26

Mark Loyacano
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2004 : 22:52:51

I like Cetol. Especially the way it flows and fills as it is applied. It is great stuff. Unfortunately I applied mine as our weather started to get cold again. The job just didn't last as long as those done in better weather conditions. Or maybe i messed up the wood prepwork ... Oh well, anyway - Choose the color (tone) that appeals to you, prep the woodwork, use a good quality set of brushes and follow the directions - it is great stuff.

Edited by - on

clayC
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
207 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2004 : 23:19:25

turning my exterior teak from the barnwood grey it was to the wonderful finished wood it has become has been the most satisfying thing I have done in a long while. Besides I live in Utah. The lakes are low, the days are short, and its getting pretty cold. Working on my boat and reading stories from thoes that are still sailing will see me through until spring. If I knew how to post a pic I could show you a before and after pic.

Clay C

Edited by - on

cshaw
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
460 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2004 : 00:17:40

I used to use a product called "Semco". It was a water based product that would not collect dirt and turn black like teak oil does, yet not have the wood look sealed up like varnishes make them look.....All it would take is a monthly scrub with something like "Tide" with a bit of bleach in it, then a quick coat of Semco with a brush. Unfortunately, it is no longer sold, so I went back to oil.... gets really black however from dirt, etc.... Cetol sure has a big following, but I have never really thought it looked quite "right".....

Chuck

Edited by - on

existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1180 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2004 : 05:45:59

How do you get the teak off? Mine is glued on as well as screwed. I am afraid of damaging the Gelcoat in removal.

Edited by - on

Mark Loyacano
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2004 : 06:55:24

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by existentialsailor
 How do you get the teak off? Mine is glued on as well as screwed. I am afraid of damaging the Gelcoat in removal.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Check "how to" references like Don Casey books etc. for illustrations that depict using a lever pressed against a wood block instead of directly against the deck (gelcoat). That way the pressure is not concentrated against a single point on the gelcoat but spread out. There is still a risk of damaging the handrails as you pry them up. I used a very long, thin shop knife and light mallet to work into the old sealant .... then gentle pressure with a curved (make that a long bent screwdriver) home made prybar. Take your time and work along the whole handrail a little at a time instead of just one loop. There is always that remote possibility that the previous owner used an epoxy or polyurethane based adhesive. I wouldn't know what to do about that.

Edited by - on

Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1774 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2004 : 11:40:01

How do you get the teak off? Mine is glued on as well as screwed. I am afraid of damaging the Gelcoat in removal. - existentialsailor

Hi there,

'Thought I'd pass on a tip I once read here ... I don't know who thought of it ('might have been Don Lucier), and I haven't tried it yet, but it sounds good.

Remove the screw from the teak grabrail (or whatever piece you're trying to remove), then take a metal guitar string and work it back and forth to "slice" through the glue/sealant.

'Hope that helps ... let us know if you try it!

Edited by - on

clayC
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
207 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2004 : 12:37:24

this is a before and after of my exterior teak using 3 coats of Cetol light. Thanks buzz

Edited by - on

Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1774 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2004 : 12:58:23

this is a before and after of my exterior teak using 3 coats of Cetol light. Thanks buzz - Clay

Hi Clay,

You're welcome for the photo-posting instructions ... and WOW, what a difference!

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2004 : 13:34:26

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by clayC
 this is a before and after of my exterior teak using 3 coats of Cetol light. Thanks buzz

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Excellent!

Edited by - on

MattL
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2004 : 14:40:58

My Pam oiling looks OK, but could use a another coat. After seeing Estabans job I am thinking I might just have to take stuff off and do a proper job of it. I have been spending all of my free time building a shop and havent been working on the boat. I got the sheathing for the roof up, now I need to call in for an inspection.

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2004 : 18:00:54

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by existentialsailor:
How do you get the teak off? Mine is glued on as well as screwed. I am afraid of damaging the Gelcoat in removal.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The first time I removed my C-25 exterior teak, it seemed to have been glued down with Poly Seam Seal or similar construction adhesive. I used a wide, thin, springy, very sharp putty knife driven with a mallot to cut the glue line. There was still some damage to both the gelcoat and teak. I now bed teak with silicone sealant, and it's still real hard to remove without cracking the teak or popping off gelcoat.

Over a period of time, I've tried various exterior teak finishes including bare, bleached & oiled, varnish, varnish over epoxy (a really bad idea), Cetol (best), and Cetol over varnish (same bad idea).

I have been using Cetol Marine applied to well sanded teak for maybe ten years on my two most recent boats. For me, it provides the optimum available combination of effort and appearance. I agree that it's important to seal all surfaces of the wood. I coated the "footprint" surface with epoxy before finishing with Cetol. Next time around (this winter) I plan to try Cetol Marine Gloss.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

Ilira
Deckhand

Members Avatar

6 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2004 : 19:16:34

I think that finished teak always looks better than "natural" grey teak, but to each his/her own. My own preference is for the softer look of oiled teak, and I recently tried a new (to me) oil that I like. I got it at West Marine; its called Tropical Teak Oil Sealer by Starbrite, and the lable says it is meant for extreem sun conditions. It comes in two shades, "Natural Light", and "Classic Teak". I tried the Natural Light and was very pleased. It is easy to apply with the teak in place on the boat. Small runs, if they occur, are easy to wipe off of the fiber glass. I have the boat at Lake Tahoe, so it gets lots of UV and sun, and it lasted all season. We'll clean the teak and do another coat at the start of this next season. If you like the oiled look, I would recommend giving this a try.

Bob Cliff
"Ilira"

Edited by - on

Esteban
Navigator

Members Avatar

139 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2004 : 19:27:23

Whoa! Those pictures are stunning - I'd like to have the same finish. Thank you all for lot's of info and views on what I thought was an easy subject. Good to know that now I have the issue of adhesive to contend with. So to thanks all!

Esteban

Edited by - on

cmckitrick
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
119 Posts

Response Posted - 11/22/2004 : 12:57:39

I know there is more than enough information here but since this was my first major boat project I have to put my two cents in. I did not take the teak off but sanded the gray weather beaten stuff to a smooth finish. Then I put 9 coats of flagship varnish starting with 20% thinner and working up to pure varnish.

As far as boat work vs. sailing I find projects like that are enjoyable by its own. But I also find that when you are out there on the water, having a beautiful finish to look at against the back drop of blue water and blue sky somehow makes the experience even better.

Edited by - on

Esteban
Navigator

Members Avatar

139 Posts

Response Posted - 11/22/2004 : 13:11:39

Thanks Charlie,

I couldn't agree more - somehow a clean well taken care off boat sails just a bit faster. Even if it is just in the sailor's mind.

I think I will end up doing a combination of removing some items such as handrails and working on others, that have teak plugs over the screws, right on the boat itself. Early spring project.

Again, thanks one and all for some great notes.

Esteban

Edited by - on

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 11/22/2004 : 14:42:13

I did my teak 4 years ago with Cetol Marine. The first day on the lake I had half a dozen compliments from fellow club members. My boat didn't start sailing faster until I bought new sails though. I had to recoat the handrails this past summer. Tfhey seem to take the worst beating.

In case you all didn't realize it, the Sikkens company is Dutch, a country that has a very long seafaring history. The company has been making exterior coatings for 300 years.

Al
GALLIVANT #5801

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 11/22/2004 : 23:26:59

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Esteban
 I think I will end up doing a combination of removing some items such as handrails and working on others, that have teak plugs over the screws, right on the boat itself.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I was able to unscrew everything except the "wings" on the cockpit bulkhead (pegged), and the coaming compartment trim (glued). The companionway trim is screwed from the inside, with the inside pieces covering the screws for the outside pieces. There's lots of goop to clean up--I used copious amounts of De Solv It from the hardware store. A putty knife is key to prying the teak off. I rebedded the teak with Life Caulk--don't know if that's the best choice...

Edited by - on

Page: of 2

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.