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Bow Roller Bearing Upgrade

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LeighMarie
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USA
188 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/21/2002 : 09:35:36

I have a 1985 C25 swing keel. I just ordered the upgrade bow roller from Catalina Direct for the anchor to go out of off the bow. This also is the bracket the forestay is attached to. The current bracket on my boat does have the length coming down the tip of the bow secured by the 2 screws in addition to the one one the deck, so I think all I need to do is to take the old one off and put the new one on without drilling new holes. However, as I look from underneath and where the bracket goes "underneath" the outer rub rail I see that it is all sealed in there with something. Will I have to break all of that out of there, and would it most likely be just some type of marine sealant? Thanks!

Dave & Sharon on "Leigh-Marie"
Hull #5128

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Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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769 Posts

Response Posted - 03/21/2002 : 09:51:58

The "sealed with something" is probably epoxy putty. Catalina Yachts used lots of that stuff when building the boats.....deck to hull joint, interior liner to hull bonding, to-hull fittings, etc. Chances are that it won't cause too much of a problem.

Counting on the holes lining up though is another kettle of fish. After 17 years since your boat was built, and around 10 since the last C25 was produced, the chances that the newly produced stem fitting bolt holes will match the old fitting's holes are 50/50 at best.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

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LeighMarie
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188 Posts

Response Posted - 03/22/2002 : 08:39:22

Bill: I just got the bow roller bearing yesterday after you had posted your message. It came complete with a tube of marine adhesive sealant, so I think that is for sealing it all up with. You made the comment about the holes not lining up. You were so right! The new bracket is longer and the holes aren't even close. I presume what I should do is to seal the holes when I take the old bracket off and then redrill new ones for the new bracket? Any suggestions on how to drill them? I've never drilled through fiberglass before and didn't know if there is a special way to do that? The other option is to redrill the new bracket and cut the longer end off a bit shorter. They sent hardware with a backing plate, so I'm hoping all of that will fit way up in the anchor locker where my current one is. Thanks!

Dave & Sharon on "Leigh-Marie"
Hull #5128

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Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 03/22/2002 : 09:40:27

You will want to take the old bracket off and fill the holes first. I'd probably go to the nearest West Marine (or similar) store and buy a fiberglass repair kit for about $15 or $16. The kit has resin and hardner, plus some fiberglass cloth. Use a scissors to cut some of the fiberglass cloth into 1/16" to 1/8" particles. Mix the resin and hardner plus the fiberglass particles to make a putty. I'd use tape on the backside of the holes and a spatula or putty knife to smooth the putty into each hole. Then, let it set up. Read and follow the directions - it's pretty easy - REALLY.

After the holes are filled and the putty has hardened, install the new stem fitting in place. Use a 3/8 electric drill to drill the appropriate size holes (I'm guessing 1/4" on deck, perhaps larger on the stem itself). Drilling through fiberglass is similar to drilling through wood, so a variable speed drill and sharp drill bits are the ticket.

You may find that the metal strap that attaches to the stem needs to be bent into shape or the correct angle. Don't worry about that. You will be able to bend the strap fairly easily with a bench vice and hammer. A few whacks with the hammer is usually all that is needed. But, be sure to do this job before you drill the new holes so that everything lines up right and fits flush with both the deck and the stem.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

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John Mason
Admiral

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687 Posts

Response Posted - 03/22/2002 : 15:23:37

I'm in the middle of that project also. The original bow stem fitting on my boat ('82 FK/SR) had one bolt partially behind the rub rail. I managed to get it out, without compromising the rub rail, by drilling the head off and punching it through into the anchor locker. I'm not going to replace that bolt. I figure the two new bolts lower into the hull are better than just the one behind the rub rail, so over all, it's still going to be stronger. I epoxied that hole closed.

I fit the new bow stem and drilled the oversized holes for it first and then put epoxy putty in the old and new holes. That way I only had to mix epoxy once.

All of the bolts come through into the anchor locker, but the area where the backing plate goes was concave. So, with the extra epoxy putty I had mixed up, I filled that area 'til it was flat, laid saran wrap over it and pressed the backing plate into it. I also smeared some "underneath" to replace what came out of that area.

Now I just need to redrill the new holes at the correct diameter and bolt the stem fitting in place with sealant.

John Mason - Ali Paroosa
1982 - FK/SR #3290

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LeighMarie
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USA
188 Posts

Response Posted - 03/22/2002 : 15:57:22

Thanks for the information! I'm going to wait until it warms up here in Michigan until I do it, but with your information I think I can handle it. It sounds like epoxy putty and I are going to become good friends!

Dave & Sharon on "Leigh-Marie"
Hull #5128

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.