Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
The Jan.'05 issue of Good Old Boat magazine has a great article about that ... the same article explains what NOT to do with and to teak. For example, I wasn't sure what I had done wrong when the Cetol I applied to my boats handrails "flaked off". The Good Old Boat article cautions against using belt sanders and cleaning (prepping)teak with acetone. Those were not the only two mistakes I made during that job. There are important health precautions to consider while working with teak.
I use Sikkens inside too. There is a lighter toned mix available if that suits your fancy... and a high-gloss topping finish if you like a lot of gloss.
I happen to like the softer finish and the contrast between dark teak and the white fiberglass... so I use mostly the regular stuff both inside and out.
We have never used anything BUT simple teak oil down below on our C25 for 12 years or our C34 for the last six. We like the non-shiny glow of bare teak with a light oiling every few years or months depending on the area of the interior teak - some gets more sun than others and needs touchups more regularly. Plus, we feel it's less work than brushing, we just dampen a cloth with teak oil, and rub it on.
For thoes of you that oil your teak do you just oil over the factory varnish or have you removed the old varnish. my entire cabin teak has had all of the varnish sanded off and I am torn between varnishing and Cetol and now maybe oil Clay C
Factory varnish?? I've never seen that on a C-25. Anyway, I'd say you have almost infinite choices inside, Cetol being unnecessary since it's forte is easy maintenance and good protection in the nasty exterior environment. Some folks here have reported good results and easy application using furniture polishes. I would worry that teak oil would not dry or soak in as throroughly inside, and might stain cushions, clothing, and such... But that's not based on experience.
So I guess that was stain? Cetol does seem like an over kill but the applacation process seems a bit more simple than the 7 coats with sanding in between as per the instructions on my can of Interlux Goldspar.But I have the time if the results are worth it.
The Starbrite teak oils soaks in and dries just fine and I'll bet that the original interior finish that was applied at the factory was teak oil. If a previous owner applied varnish, thats another kettle of fish.
<font color="blue">Several of us use Howard's Restor-a-Finish (in Golden Oak shade) with excellent results. Very easy to apply - just wipe on! - Derek</font id="blue">
I second that ... excellent results with relatively little effort ...
Although no one has mentioned it yet, I know that several of us also use lemon oil ... 'looks good, and smells nice, too ...
Frankly, I'm not so sure what you use is all that important ... any treatment will make your boat look nicer inside than a boat that's neglected (unless you do a really sloppy varnish job).
Clay, you only need to do seven coats of varnish if you're putting it on the EXterior. Down below, two coats should do nicely. This spring, I plan to varnish my teak below with satin finish. I've been using lemon oil for years with good results -- the lemon helps prevent mildew -- but the slick coating of the varnish will help prevent the mildew from taking hold in the grain of the teak. It will also make cleaning easier.
As a member of Masochists Anonymous, I also have settled on gloss finish varnish for the teak topsides (West Marine Skipper -- top rated by Practical Sailor). I tried Armada (like Cetol), teak oil, and letting it go grey topside, and wasn't satisfied with either. I've never liked the look of Cetol (or Armada) -- it has a plastic appearance to me. Varnish is more work initially -- those seven coats topside -- but after than it's one coat a year, which is exactly what you have to do with Cetol. To my eyes, the difference between Cetol and varnish is night and day. "Your mileage may vary."
Find a boat whose finish you like, find what the finish is, and copy.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by At Ease</i> <br />Where do you find Howard's Restor-a-Finish...I've looked in my favorite four marine catalogs and do not see it. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Edit: I thought I ordered directly from them, but, after checking their website I realized that they only sell to dealers. I went out to my garage and checked the shipping label on the case I bought ... it came from [url="http://www.antiquesupply.com/prod-howard2.shtml"]Golden's Antique Supply[/url]
Spar Varnish, thinned for first coat, sand between coats, 4 max interior. unfinished teak especially in the galley takes on stains and marks and is hard to clean. I like varnished teak everywhere.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Spar Varnish, thinned for first coat, sand between coats, 4 max interior. unfinished teak especially in the galley takes on stains and marks and is hard to clean.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">I agree with John V. on this one.
In my 1979 C-25, the cabin teak seems to have been coated with some sort of semi-water soluable stained wax. The result probably looked good without much skilled labor originally. It has not aged gracefully. I tried thoroughly cleaning and sanding a few small parts (shelves, fiddle railes, etc.) and varnishing them. I really like the results. Unlike exterior teak, varnished cabin trim shouldn't need to be refinished again for many, many years.
Another interior varnish trick I've heard -- even if you plan to end up with a satin finish, use high-gloss varnish for all but the final coat. Multiple coats of satin finish can blur and hide the grain too much.
Just a note on Howards Retore a Finish. I found it is much cheaper if you get it at a paint store vs. mail ordering it. I dont mean shipping costs either. I think the actual cost at my local factory paint store was about half what they were asking online. I used it and it looked good initially but after awhile I could not really notice a big difference. Maybe my interior teak is to the point where it needs some prep work.
I am digging into my memory here so please foregive me. I have used the Howard's Restor-a-finish which as I recall is a thin stain like liquid that helps recolor scratches and scrapes in the teak. It works well. After applying this material I then wiped on another Howard's product that had an orange wax like texture. The wax has a very pleasant orange smell and soaks into the wood giving it a nice luster. I purchased both at my local ACE Hardware store. I had been using the teak oil, but seemed to just evaporate away and I was back to square one.
We we first got our boat we cleaned it and re oiled the interior. A few months later the oiled finish looked dirty to me. I have started finishing the parts that were getting dark and dirty looking with polyurithane. Two coats of gloss and a finish coat of satin. It stays clean and has held up well so far.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.