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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've had the 250 WK for two seasons now, and I know I'm overdue to clean and service the Lewmar 16 ST self-tailing winches. Can someone please tell me where to find the screws to remove the drum, so I can lube the gears? Also, how long can I expect pawls and springs to last under ordinary cruising conditions? Any instructions, recommendations, advice regarding winch service is very much appreciated.
<font face='Comic Sans MS'><font size=2> Check out this [url="http://www.pyacht.com/lewmar_winch_service.htm"] Lewmar winch servicing site. [/url] Underlined words are a <font size=3><font color=red>HOT</font id=red></font id=size3>link.</font id=size2></font id='Comic Sans MS'>
One interesting hint I saw a few years back was to cut a hole the diameter of the winch in the bottom of a shoe box (or similar), and then slip the box over the winch before you start taking it apart. That way, when things start falling or flying around (springs have a way of doing that), the box contains them.
I have also heard that it's very important not to over-lube winches, and that only the manufacturer's recommended lube should be used. Lewmar's own brand is available in most marine shops.
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT
Allen, Dave's warning about putting a box or whatever under/around the winch is not to be taken lightly. There is a very fine spring washer that holds the drum to the bearing shaft. If you loose that spring the only place to get a replacement is the manufacturer. My Lewmar primary winches have this spring. If you have an older boat, mine is a 1978, the originals were Barlows and they have an allen screw at the bottom of the wrench socket holding the drum. I have those on the cabin top now. As far as grease goes, I just used a good marine grade and as Dave points out, it doesn't take much. If you put too much grease on the 'clicker' won't click. The insides of these things are really quite simple.
Ed Montague on 'Yahoo' 1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~
Many thanks to all for the helpful hints on winch cleaning and service. The box use sounds like a great idea. And the web site had some great pics to help me with the dismantling procedure.
For about twenty years, and three boats later, I have yet to take apart a winch, and have never had a problem with them-when I use good old WD 40 every so often to clean out the dirt that seems to accumulate in them!
The dry lubricant seem to keep the winches running smooth, and the wet stuff (high grade kerosene (?) gets the innards clean as a whistle!
You might try it before attempting to lose parts over the side.
I use a lot of WD 40 for the job, and you should see the junk that comes out of the bottom of the winch! Once I see the clear stuff, I know that the winch is clean and well lubricated.
If you look at the lubricant of WD 40, you will see that the propellent is actually a high grade kerosene. (this is why one can use this stuff to actually power a diesel engine) The dry lubricant is left behind when the propellent dries up.
I may be wrong in using this stuff on my winches, but three boats and over twenty five years of service without taking one apart-I'll keep using this stuff!!
Right on the top-where the screw is holding everything together. On some winches it takes a little time to penetrate, but it is worth a try before trying to take apart these beasts!
Last winter, I serviced over 100 winches. 99% from boats over 32 feet. Hinckleys, Shannon, etc, etc. Winches from Lewmar, (the best), to cheap plastic ones, elec. winches, etc. The lubrication for the pawls, is white lithium in a spray can. All other contact areas is a mixture of grease and Marvel mystery oil, power mixed by drill and paddle mixer. The post by lewmar on periodicity, is for serious racers. Beginning of each season should be plenty for 99% of all C-25 owners. I have replaced the in expensive, (read cheap), with Lewmar 16 as Primaries. The "over greasing" mentioned in a previous post, pertains to the spring loaded pawls, and the corresponding teeth on the inside of the winch.
Fair winds and following seas, _/) ~~~~ Captain Frank P. Grande Goddess of the Sea Cruises Sailing Adventures in Maine www.goddesscruise.com capfrank@mint.net 207-877-7824
Happy Easter to y'all.. God it's great to respond to a kindred spirit. I've had Calista about ten years now and on one occasion four or five years ago one of the little winchie buggers got a little sluggish ...I sprayed a some 10 W 40 around the hesus clip atop the drum, the thing that holds it all together and a few turns and it's been free ever since. I once ran with a group from Villinova and Jumbo Elliot the track coach impressed me when, interupting a group of enthusiastic runners outdoing each other with the regimens of their exausting workouts, said ,and coined the phrase, I believe, "Keep It Simple Stupid". I'd much rather S A I L than S T A I N. If I thought staining would keep the boat afloat I'd stain.
Being a bit of a tinkerer, I checked our the Lewmar site, got myself a shoebox, and disassembled both winches. Cleaned them up good, re-lubed them, and put them back together with no extra parts left over. The best part of all - they both still turn<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>
Maybe next time I'll take the WD40 approach. Thanks to all for the good advice.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.