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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Last year I bought a new outboard. The plan was to take it off the boat in the Fall, clean it up, and store it in the garage. Thanks to an unexpected long trip to Florida and other work issues, the motor is still sitting on the back of the boat, covered in seagull droppings, and un "winterized"
Not much point in Winterizing it now, but I'm curious if there's any extra steps I should take to start her back up. I'm sure it's fine. Just trying to minimize wear and tear on a new engine.
Next spring, before the first start-up, open the drain cock on the carburetor float bowl to see if anything comes out. Prime the float boat from a tank of fresh gas that has a fresh filter on the fuel line. Drain out this first bowl full into a clear glass container and look to see if any crud comes out with the gas. If it looks clean, the motor should be ready to run. Check the oil dipstick, wipe it on a clean piece of paper. If the oil looks anything but clean and clear, change the oil. Small outboards only take one quart, so an oil change will only cost you a buck or two. If it has been more than one year since the gear oil was last changed, do that also. Look at the gear oil as it drains for any sign that water has gotten past the prop shaft seals and contaminated the gear box. If so, the shaft seals need to be replaced and the gears and shaft bearings checked for corrosion damage before the motor is put back in service. Check the spark plugs for evidence of abnormalities in the engine. The plug tips should be a light tan color, with no crud built up on them. Wet black deposits are an obvious sign that oil is getting past the rings or valve stem seals, but if the engine is only a year old, that's unlikely.
Well, as far south as I am, I might not be qualified to respond to this.
Start by replacing the fuel with a fresh batch, and checking the tank and filter(s) for condensation and other fuel system crud. While squeezing the primer ball, check for fuel leaks.
If it's a 4-stroke, inspect the timing belt for damage and wear, check the crankcase oil level, and spin it enough to pump oil before firing it. (If you left gas to go stale in the carb, you'll be spinning it plenty long enough to get the oil up before it ever starts.)
In fact, prepare yourself emotionally for a carb rebuild. Have a spare set of sparkplugs handy. If it seems to be taking too long to fire, try reading and changing plugs while checking for spark. While you've got the cowl open to get the gummed up carb off, check for vermin nests, lube all the linkages, and maybe spray electrical contact protectant on the wiring connectors.
Promise you'll treat your friend the motor better in the future.
Add some fuel stabalizer to your fuel and run it up into the engine. Put a good size bucket under and over the prop and run fresh water into it and run the engine in neautral to flush out the salt christals or use a flush kit if you have one . My main worry in the recent weather would be water in the engine freezing and cracking something . You could flush enviro friendly antifreez into it. You could have asked for help to . I would have been glad to nip over to your dock and take care of it . I always check friends boats when Im at the marina .
I had never even thought of fresh water freezing in the motor. Fortunately, I always tilt her out of the water and flush inside and out thourally when I bring her in, so I know at least that much should be OK. On old motors I used to run the gas dry, but the dealer told me not to on this one.
If you are done for the season, IMHO it's not too late to take the engine home & do the service. That way the skunky oil, lube & old gas won't sit in the engine & possibly create a bunch of headaches in the spring.
Soon as I am tied up at the slip I disconnect the fuel line everytime and let the motor run until the carborator is empty and it shuts off. That way I never have to worry about gasoline turning to shallac. If you've ever seen it, you know it is nasty stuff to have in your engine.
Doug, IMHO you do have a fairly new engine. If it were me I would drain all the fuel you can out of the engine, pull the fuel bowl and check for sediment etc, change the fuel filter, refuel with fresh fuel and refire it. You didn't say if you were on the hard or not. But once I determined if it ran ok "I'm an optimist" then I would worry about oils and such. There must be a checklist for your engine as to preventive maintenance and schedule in your owners manual.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.