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 Tiller Tamer
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gracer
1st Mate

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USA
39 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/17/2005 :  11:59:48  Show Profile
Does anyone use a tiller Tamer? I am planning to install one. If I single haul, I need the tiller to stay put plus when sailing with the first mate, she can not haul the sail on control the tiller well.

After writing this, I think a may need a new first mate, nah, after 41 years, I think she's a keeper!

Bob

Bob Grace
Castleton, Vermont
1984 Swing Keel "Sara"

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tdannar
1st Mate

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USA
25 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2005 :  12:28:01  Show Profile
I have used the "Davis Tiller Tamer" for the last couple of years. Cheap ($25.00) and easy to use. It has friction adjustment and is basically, out of the way when not needed.



Go to West Marine and search for "Tiller Tamer"

Terry

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2005 :  12:28:58  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by gracer</i>
<br />Does anyone use a tiller Tamer? I am planning to install one. If I single haul, I need the tiller to stay put plus when sailing with the first mate, she can not haul the sail on control the tiller well.

Bob
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Bob,

A quick an easy tiller tamer that is used by many of us consists simply of a short bungee cord with hooks at each end. One hook is fastened to the hasp on the starboard storage locker, then the bungee is wrapped around the tiller 4 or 5 times (depending on the length of the cord), then hooked into the hasp on the port side locker.

Once the proper amount of wraps are made on the tiller, you can make adjustments by simply rotating the wraps on the tiller to fine tune the tiller position.

(Photo courtesy of Bill Sloane)

Cheap, easy, and it works pretty good.

Edited by - dlucier on 01/17/2005 13:06:59
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Charlie Vick
Captain

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USA
423 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2005 :  13:14:01  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i>

Bob,

A quick an easy tiller tamer that is used by many of us consists simply of a short bungee cord with hooks at each end. One hook is fastened to the hasp on the starboard storage locker, then the bungee is wrapped around the tiller 4 or 5 times (depending on the length of the cord), then the other hook is inserted into the hasp on the port side locker.

Once the proper amount of wraps are made on the tiller, you can make adjustments by simply rotating the wraps on the tiller to fine tune the tiller position.

Cheap and easy, and it works pretty good.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I'll second what Don said. Its the only "auto pilot" I've ever used.

One thing though, its only good for a short period of time. I can usually get one sail up before I have to go back and adjust again, depending on the strength of the wind. Dowsing both sails is no problem. Its usually long enough for any trimming I need to do as long as its one item at a time.
Its always long enough to jump down into the cabin and grab some item you should have had in the cockpit with you in the first place.

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aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2005 :  13:37:52  Show Profile  Visit aeckhart's Homepage
I have read that surgical tubing is a better material than bungee cord for this purpose. It is a little less elastic.

Al
GALLIANT #5801

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Scooter
Navigator

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USA
228 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2005 :  17:03:05  Show Profile
I did the bungee trick too and works great. Got the idea in this forum. I took mine back to the cleats instead of the locker hasps. The cleats keep my tiller up higher. I don't have a block on mine so it won't fall too low to hit things. Either way it's a quick and cheap way to get what you need. It's also one less thing to carry since you usually have some bungees around someplace.

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Scooter
Navigator

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USA
228 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2005 :  17:03:06  Show Profile
I did the bungee trick too and works great. Got the idea in this forum. I took mine back to the cleats instead of the locker hasps. The cleats keep my tiller up higher. I don't have a block on mine so it won't fall too low to hit things. Either way it's a quick and cheap way to get what you need. It's also one less thing to carry since you usually have some bungees around someplace.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2005 :  17:25:53  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
Hi Bob,

I use a tiller tamer. Go here and watch the movie for a demonstration.
[url="http://homepage.mac.com/fhopper/iMovieTheater73.html"]Tamer in action[/url]
One thing about till tamers that needs accommodating it the actual line; where you connect it and what you do with it when you put your tiller cover on. If you look at this picture closely you can see many things, one of which is that after reconfiguring my traveler control system I was able to use the old transom mounted traveler line cleats for the tiller tamer line. This allows me to have tails on the line which get pulled up when in use and let out when covered. This also allows the tamer to be fine tuned from the transom cleats.


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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2005 :  19:00:19  Show Profile
I've used both the Tiller Tamer and the Tillerman. To me, both are unacceptable, altho' the Tillerman (IMHO) is far the better.
The Tiller Tamer takes too long to release and adjust. The Tillerman is quicker in that regard as a push on the "hood" releases it - but the line has a habit of coming out of the slot. Both really have to be removed to put on a tiller cover (an essential in Texas!).
The bungee from stern cleat to stern cleat with a clove hitch around the tiller works wonders and holds adequately in any position. I never single-hand without it hooked up. Besides, it fits my KISS principle!
Derek

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Esteban
Navigator

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139 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2005 :  19:18:31  Show Profile
Frank,

That was way cool! Now I got a serious itch; three months to go before sailing season.

Love the video - it was good for me... need a cigarette.

Esteban

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Lightnup
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1016 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2005 :  19:40:40  Show Profile
Last time out, I used the end of the main halyard. Brought it back and outboard of the first stern stanchion on the starboard side, several loops around the tiller and tied it off on the matching stanchion on the port side. Worked great.

Frank - If I weren't staying in a dumpy fleabag of a hotel with a %$^*# dialup connection and no highspeed, I'd watch your tiller video. Virtually all hotels (even the upscale ones) have been sold out in the Fort Pierce, FL area since hurricanes Jeanne and Frances. Construction workers, insurance people and displaced residents. Small wonder this dump cost $117.00/night.

Steve

Steve

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2005 :  20:06:45  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
Steve,
It is the same video that has been up for several months, I'm sure you've seen it. I don't think most people notice the hands free tiller toward the end of it.

Thanks Esteban, come to the Nationals and sail Cheney.

Derek,
If our sail with you was anywhere near normal I do not see how anyone on Canyon can use anything successfully, my hand never left the tiller and I still couldn't keep the boat in the groove. I noticed an S2 26 on eBay the other day and realized it was Canyon Lake from the picture of the marina, that was fun!

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existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1180 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2005 :  22:11:07  Show Profile
Just wanted to say thank you to all of you. I never even knew such a thing existed. Damn, I've got a lot to learn!

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Jeff McK
Captain

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USA
389 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2005 :  23:35:24  Show Profile
I considered a tiller tamer but rejected it mainly for the inability to get the cover on the tiller. I opted to use a Forespar tiller extension that you can lock at a given length. They also make a plastic coaming box that holds the ball end. This does the same thing as the tiller tamer & is easy to adjust to the desired length.

One plus: It is attached to the tiller handle by a metal sleeve (included) you install in the tiller. The extension is secured in the sleeve by a fastpin. The top of the socket is flush with the handle so you can remove the extension & put the tiller handle cover on at the end of the day.

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JimB517
Past Commodore

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USA
3285 Posts

Response Posted - 01/18/2005 :  19:01:35  Show Profile  Visit JimB517's Homepage
I use my autopilot as a tiller tamer.



When not in use autosteering you can lock the tiller in any desired position. Don't go singlehanding without one.

I've learned to hook up the AP even with wife, crew and numerous guests on board.

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Ben - FL
Admiral

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880 Posts

Response Posted - 01/18/2005 :  19:10:46  Show Profile  Visit Ben - FL's Homepage
This is from a previous post last summer...

Look Ma, no hands! This is what a Tiller Tamer will do for you. It works better on the wind rather than off. I've sailed for miles like this when the sails are balanced.


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existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1180 Posts

Response Posted - 01/18/2005 :  19:24:27  Show Profile
Jim,

What are the large pices of hardware going through your instrument shelf? Nice position for that gear by the way.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 01/18/2005 :  22:05:04  Show Profile
Another good thing about the bungee wrapped around the tiller, if you run it from the stern cleats, is that you can rig it so it's slack when the wraps are pushed aft on the tiller and tightens as you pull them forward. That lets you engage and disengage it instantly. Even when engaged, the bungee lets you correct course with a little push, without changing anything. As stated above, you can also grab the wraps and turn them slightly to adjust the course. I haven't seen a stock bungee long enough to do this--you probably need to make one up. I think about 12' is a good length to start with--figure about three feet for the wraps.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 01/18/2005 22:07:17
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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 01/18/2005 :  23:22:20  Show Profile
Dave - using a clove hitch on the tiller, and running from cleat to cleat, my bungee is 8' long plus the metal hooks. This seems to give the correct amount of tension.
Derek

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Jeff McK
Captain

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USA
389 Posts

Response Posted - 01/19/2005 :  08:02:27  Show Profile
FYI: Jim's photo from the 18th shows the metal sleeve I mentioned where the tiller extension fast-pin connects to the tiller.

I don't have that nifty plastic clip on mine, but use a velcro strap to keep the extension under control if not in use.

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JimB517
Past Commodore

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USA
3285 Posts

Response Posted - 01/19/2005 :  11:33:17  Show Profile  Visit JimB517's Homepage
My mini nav center has fishfinder, GPS, and a push-pull switch that turns on or off the 12 volt accessory plug. This is a screw in type waterproof deck plug, not a cigaretter lighter type. The autopilot plugs in here, or the anchor/deck light, or the solar panels.

That plastic prong on the tiller is to hold the tiller extension when not in use.

The GPS is a hand held unit on a tilt/swivel mount. It runs on internal AA batteries. If the boat electrical system goes down I still have a GPS and handheld VHF.

I like the nav center location when single handing or with only a few crew. You'll see its small. I can still open the cockpit locker underneath. People can still sit there (just not lean back). The tiller goes over everything so no reduction in turning radius. All the gear unplugs and is stored inside. I've a waterproof cover that snaps over protecting the electronics and mounts. Both units are on tilt/swivel mounts.

I didn't want the gear up front in the companionway or on the back of the cabin. With lines led aft, it would always be in the way. When you are sitting on the other side, controlling the motor and steering, all your instruments are directly in front of you.


Oh yeah - everything is wired to a bus bar I installed in the locker with the water tank. The busbar is wired to the "Spreader Light" switch on the main panel (I don't have spreader lights). Heavy gage waterproof marine grade wire runs through the bilge from the main electrical panel to the busbar. This is a 15 amp circuit. The busbar uses crimp on connectors with locking O type prongs. All crimp on connections are shrink tubed. The busbar itself is covered with a non-conducting cover. Every instrument plugs into this busbar - VHF, CD, Nav Center, and 12 VDC accessory plug in the salon. All instruments are independantly fused and fuses are correctly sized. All wiring connections are soldered, covered with liquid electrical tape, dried, and then double shrink wrapped.

Nothing on my boat is wired directly to the battery but the main power switch and a voltage meter and I have battery backup instruments. I do not use the outboard charging circuit.

Edited by - JimB517 on 01/19/2005 11:42:07
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Mark Loyacano
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 01/19/2005 :  11:54:32  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JimB517</i>
<br />I use my autopilot as a tiller tamer.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Jim, does your autopilot "labor" more (consume more power) at all positioned so far aft on the tiller? I've always imagined they would need to be more forward for better leverage. Thanks.

Edited by - Mark Loyacano on 01/19/2005 11:56:56
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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 01/19/2005 :  20:11:46  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JimB517</i>
<br />If the boat electrical system goes down I still have a GPS and handheld VHF.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Why would that ever happen?

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 01/19/2005 :  20:19:41  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Derek Crawford</i>
<br />Dave - using a clove hitch on the tiller, and running from cleat to cleat, my bungee is 8' long plus the metal hooks. This seems to give the correct amount of tension.
Derek
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Sounds good... I was thinking mine was a little longer--allowing it to be pulled forward to tension it and pushed back to relax it for normal manual steering. Plus, I hate when I buy a length of something and it isn't <i>quite</i> long enough!

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adamb
1st Mate

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USA
39 Posts

Response Posted - 01/19/2005 :  22:10:15  Show Profile
Where on earth do one fine an 8' length of bungee (or 12' for that matter)

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 01/19/2005 :  22:52:02  Show Profile
"Where on earth do one fine an 8' length of bungee (or 12' for that matter)"

Many of the larger hardware stores will have bungee 'cord' stored on a reel that can be unrolled and purchased by the foot. Hooks can be purchased seperately. I imagine that some of the marine mailorder vendors sell it that way too.

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