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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Does anyone use a tiller Tamer? I am planning to install one. If I single haul, I need the tiller to stay put plus when sailing with the first mate, she can not haul the sail on control the tiller well.
After writing this, I think a may need a new first mate, nah, after 41 years, I think she's a keeper!
Bob
Bob Grace Castleton, Vermont 1984 Swing Keel "Sara"
I have used the "Davis Tiller Tamer" for the last couple of years. Cheap ($25.00) and easy to use. It has friction adjustment and is basically, out of the way when not needed.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by gracer</i> <br />Does anyone use a tiller Tamer? I am planning to install one. If I single haul, I need the tiller to stay put plus when sailing with the first mate, she can not haul the sail on control the tiller well.
Bob <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Bob,
A quick an easy tiller tamer that is used by many of us consists simply of a short bungee cord with hooks at each end. One hook is fastened to the hasp on the starboard storage locker, then the bungee is wrapped around the tiller 4 or 5 times (depending on the length of the cord), then hooked into the hasp on the port side locker.
Once the proper amount of wraps are made on the tiller, you can make adjustments by simply rotating the wraps on the tiller to fine tune the tiller position.
(Photo courtesy of Bill Sloane) Cheap, easy, and it works pretty good.
A quick an easy tiller tamer that is used by many of us consists simply of a short bungee cord with hooks at each end. One hook is fastened to the hasp on the starboard storage locker, then the bungee is wrapped around the tiller 4 or 5 times (depending on the length of the cord), then the other hook is inserted into the hasp on the port side locker.
Once the proper amount of wraps are made on the tiller, you can make adjustments by simply rotating the wraps on the tiller to fine tune the tiller position.
Cheap and easy, and it works pretty good. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I'll second what Don said. Its the only "auto pilot" I've ever used.
One thing though, its only good for a short period of time. I can usually get one sail up before I have to go back and adjust again, depending on the strength of the wind. Dowsing both sails is no problem. Its usually long enough for any trimming I need to do as long as its one item at a time. Its always long enough to jump down into the cabin and grab some item you should have had in the cockpit with you in the first place.
I did the bungee trick too and works great. Got the idea in this forum. I took mine back to the cleats instead of the locker hasps. The cleats keep my tiller up higher. I don't have a block on mine so it won't fall too low to hit things. Either way it's a quick and cheap way to get what you need. It's also one less thing to carry since you usually have some bungees around someplace.
I did the bungee trick too and works great. Got the idea in this forum. I took mine back to the cleats instead of the locker hasps. The cleats keep my tiller up higher. I don't have a block on mine so it won't fall too low to hit things. Either way it's a quick and cheap way to get what you need. It's also one less thing to carry since you usually have some bungees around someplace.
I use a tiller tamer. Go here and watch the movie for a demonstration. [url="http://homepage.mac.com/fhopper/iMovieTheater73.html"]Tamer in action[/url] One thing about till tamers that needs accommodating it the actual line; where you connect it and what you do with it when you put your tiller cover on. If you look at this picture closely you can see many things, one of which is that after reconfiguring my traveler control system I was able to use the old transom mounted traveler line cleats for the tiller tamer line. This allows me to have tails on the line which get pulled up when in use and let out when covered. This also allows the tamer to be fine tuned from the transom cleats.
I've used both the Tiller Tamer and the Tillerman. To me, both are unacceptable, altho' the Tillerman (IMHO) is far the better. The Tiller Tamer takes too long to release and adjust. The Tillerman is quicker in that regard as a push on the "hood" releases it - but the line has a habit of coming out of the slot. Both really have to be removed to put on a tiller cover (an essential in Texas!). The bungee from stern cleat to stern cleat with a clove hitch around the tiller works wonders and holds adequately in any position. I never single-hand without it hooked up. Besides, it fits my KISS principle! Derek
Last time out, I used the end of the main halyard. Brought it back and outboard of the first stern stanchion on the starboard side, several loops around the tiller and tied it off on the matching stanchion on the port side. Worked great.
Frank - If I weren't staying in a dumpy fleabag of a hotel with a %$^*# dialup connection and no highspeed, I'd watch your tiller video. Virtually all hotels (even the upscale ones) have been sold out in the Fort Pierce, FL area since hurricanes Jeanne and Frances. Construction workers, insurance people and displaced residents. Small wonder this dump cost $117.00/night.
Steve, It is the same video that has been up for several months, I'm sure you've seen it. I don't think most people notice the hands free tiller toward the end of it.
Thanks Esteban, come to the Nationals and sail Cheney.
Derek, If our sail with you was anywhere near normal I do not see how anyone on Canyon can use anything successfully, my hand never left the tiller and I still couldn't keep the boat in the groove. I noticed an S2 26 on eBay the other day and realized it was Canyon Lake from the picture of the marina, that was fun!
I considered a tiller tamer but rejected it mainly for the inability to get the cover on the tiller. I opted to use a Forespar tiller extension that you can lock at a given length. They also make a plastic coaming box that holds the ball end. This does the same thing as the tiller tamer & is easy to adjust to the desired length.
One plus: It is attached to the tiller handle by a metal sleeve (included) you install in the tiller. The extension is secured in the sleeve by a fastpin. The top of the socket is flush with the handle so you can remove the extension & put the tiller handle cover on at the end of the day.
Look Ma, no hands! This is what a Tiller Tamer will do for you. It works better on the wind rather than off. I've sailed for miles like this when the sails are balanced.
Another good thing about the bungee wrapped around the tiller, if you run it from the stern cleats, is that you can rig it so it's slack when the wraps are pushed aft on the tiller and tightens as you pull them forward. That lets you engage and disengage it instantly. Even when engaged, the bungee lets you correct course with a little push, without changing anything. As stated above, you can also grab the wraps and turn them slightly to adjust the course. I haven't seen a stock bungee long enough to do this--you probably need to make one up. I think about 12' is a good length to start with--figure about three feet for the wraps.
Dave - using a clove hitch on the tiller, and running from cleat to cleat, my bungee is 8' long plus the metal hooks. This seems to give the correct amount of tension. Derek
My mini nav center has fishfinder, GPS, and a push-pull switch that turns on or off the 12 volt accessory plug. This is a screw in type waterproof deck plug, not a cigaretter lighter type. The autopilot plugs in here, or the anchor/deck light, or the solar panels.
That plastic prong on the tiller is to hold the tiller extension when not in use.
The GPS is a hand held unit on a tilt/swivel mount. It runs on internal AA batteries. If the boat electrical system goes down I still have a GPS and handheld VHF.
I like the nav center location when single handing or with only a few crew. You'll see its small. I can still open the cockpit locker underneath. People can still sit there (just not lean back). The tiller goes over everything so no reduction in turning radius. All the gear unplugs and is stored inside. I've a waterproof cover that snaps over protecting the electronics and mounts. Both units are on tilt/swivel mounts.
I didn't want the gear up front in the companionway or on the back of the cabin. With lines led aft, it would always be in the way. When you are sitting on the other side, controlling the motor and steering, all your instruments are directly in front of you.
Oh yeah - everything is wired to a bus bar I installed in the locker with the water tank. The busbar is wired to the "Spreader Light" switch on the main panel (I don't have spreader lights). Heavy gage waterproof marine grade wire runs through the bilge from the main electrical panel to the busbar. This is a 15 amp circuit. The busbar uses crimp on connectors with locking O type prongs. All crimp on connections are shrink tubed. The busbar itself is covered with a non-conducting cover. Every instrument plugs into this busbar - VHF, CD, Nav Center, and 12 VDC accessory plug in the salon. All instruments are independantly fused and fuses are correctly sized. All wiring connections are soldered, covered with liquid electrical tape, dried, and then double shrink wrapped.
Nothing on my boat is wired directly to the battery but the main power switch and a voltage meter and I have battery backup instruments. I do not use the outboard charging circuit.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JimB517</i> <br />I use my autopilot as a tiller tamer.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Jim, does your autopilot "labor" more (consume more power) at all positioned so far aft on the tiller? I've always imagined they would need to be more forward for better leverage. Thanks.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JimB517</i> <br />If the boat electrical system goes down I still have a GPS and handheld VHF. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Why would that ever happen?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Derek Crawford</i> <br />Dave - using a clove hitch on the tiller, and running from cleat to cleat, my bungee is 8' long plus the metal hooks. This seems to give the correct amount of tension. Derek <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Sounds good... I was thinking mine was a little longer--allowing it to be pulled forward to tension it and pushed back to relax it for normal manual steering. Plus, I hate when I buy a length of something and it isn't <i>quite</i> long enough!
"Where on earth do one fine an 8' length of bungee (or 12' for that matter)"
Many of the larger hardware stores will have bungee 'cord' stored on a reel that can be unrolled and purchased by the foot. Hooks can be purchased seperately. I imagine that some of the marine mailorder vendors sell it that way too.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.