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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by lcharlot</i> <br />Can you even get modern ball valves with the correct thread size to fit those old bronze to-hull pipes? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
My boat has marelon 1/2" ball valves that screw directly on to the "to-hull". You can get the new versions at west marine.
Telflon tape (in my opinion) is useless. I work on industrial machines for a living and the only thing I allow teflon tape on is compressed air fittings. I use pipe thread sealing compound with teflon on all pipe threads.
When I talked to the engineers at Forespar, I asked what I cannot use on their Marelon fittings. He told me I could use anything. Nothing will chemically melt a marelon fitting, except fire of course.
Never use teflon tape on petroleum based products, especially gasoline.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Happy D</i> <br />Telflon tape (in my opinion) is useless. I work on industrial machines for a living and the only thing I allow teflon tape on is compressed air fittings. I use pipe thread sealing compound with teflon on all pipe threads.
When I talked to the engineers at Forespar, I asked what I cannot use on their Marelon fittings. He told me I could use anything. Nothing will chemically melt a marelon fitting, except fire of course.
Never use teflon tape on petroleum based products, especially gasoline.
My opinion <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
There's some light corrosion on the threads. Would the pipe thread sealant allow a watertight fitting by "filling in" any small gaps in the threads? The best way to go would be pipe thread sealant with teflon or I just add some 4200 and tighten down? 4200 would allow future removal of the ball valve and would make it more difficult for someone to inadvertenly twist off the ball valve.
Pipe thread sealant will fill in the gaps left by corrosion just fine. In fact, pipe sealing compound works by filling the gaps in the root and the crest of the threads. I have no experience with using 4200 on threads.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by albert</i> <br />I'm planning on keeping my "to hulls". To reseat the ball valve to the "to hull" I can use either teflon tape or 4200 sealant. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I think it would be a bad idea to use any kind of polyurethane sealant, including 4200, on a threaded fitting like your boat's seacocks, because polyurethanes are pretty strongly adhesive, and you might find that the valve becomes "permanently" glued to the thruhull with no way to get it off short of "extreme force" of some kind that would likely damage the thruhull as well as the valve. I'd go with teflon pipe thread sealant (the paste, not the tape).
I agree with Larry and use pipe joint compound with teflon on installing valves and gas fittings. After a period of time the compound does harden but stays plyable which helps with sealing even when cranking on a valve. Marelon valves with teflon to pipe fittings are easier to split because of the slick character of teflon and the taper of pipe threads. I've learned this the hard way and hope this helps. Jim Sweet
I moosed two of my three thru-hulls off with a pipe wrench and replaced with bronze threaded nipples of the same size. The third one stayed put while the valve unscrewed. I glued the new pipes (threaded nipples in plumber-speak) in place with BoatLife (I think I used the indestructable stuff, the 5200) and shored them in place while they dried. I spun them around some to spread the goo out. I think I left it braced for a week. Threaded the ball valves on with Teflon tape. Have had no problems so far.
Years ago , One of our boat customers brought some Leak Lock, Highside Chemicals. The stuff is great. I have never had anything that was properly assembled with it leak. The only drawback to it is that I can only get it from a real full bore plumbing distributor. Its worth the trouble though. Dave
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.