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Teak Experts Needed

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existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1180 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/27/2005 : 17:40:16

I am in the process of redoing my teak. My top hatch cover was broken on one edge and repaired by a PO. He did not do a very good job. However, he did use epoxy and it would be a difficult job to remove the pieces on the edge without damaging the rest of the hatch because of the joint. I have decided not to try to redo his repair, but to touch it up as best as possible. One thing I need to do is fill some gaps and some gouges too deep to sand out on that edge. What type of filler works with teak and will take Cetol like teak does?
Thanks.

Rick

Edited by - on

Lightnup
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1016 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2005 : 21:10:56

I'm going to piggyback on Rick's email and hope the teak experts will answer my question too: What's the best method for bonding two pieces of teak together? i.e., the top outside corner of the track in which the hatchboards slide broke off and I want to re-attach it.

Thanks,

Steve

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2005 : 23:21:40

Rick and Steve, I would suggest epoxy for the two fixes. I had read "not to use a cleaner on teak" because the oil in the wood comes to the surface. You might use a color for tenting(a dry tent like a dye for clothes), or teak sawdust. The repair will always be there, but you can get a very close match. My companionway hatch had broken off on the edge. The PO just screwed them together with two pieces of metal? I used a 5 min epoxy and two clamps. Let it sit overnight and it is good as new. I don’t know if I would use a wood glue because of the hard and oily properties of teak.

Edited by - on

Lightnup
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1016 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2005 : 14:43:01

Thanks Chris for the input.

Steve

Edited by - on

Esteban
Navigator

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139 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2005 : 14:49:32

Try a product called Gorilla Glue. It's readily available at Home Depot and the stuff is simply amazing. The bond is incredible strong - best yet, it can be sanded and stained. Here is their web site - if anything; it's a fun site.

I just did a similar repair on one of my boards - I'd be happy to send you pics after using Cetol Light.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2005 : 16:33:46

biscuits man biscuits.

Edited by - on

Lightnup
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1016 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2005 : 17:56:25

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">biscuits man biscuits<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Frank - been sniffin' a bit too much of the Cetol yourself?

Edited by - on

John Mason
Admiral

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USA
687 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2005 : 19:18:01

For gluing teak, DO wipe it well with acetone on the gluing surfaces and allow the acetone to evaporate before applying the glue. If you don't, the oils in the wood will interfere with the glue bond.

With Gorilla Glue, then after the acetone, dampen the glue surfaces with water (don't soak it, just dampen) before applying the glue. Gorilla Glue is high quality stuff. It's the only glue I use on teak.

As for filling gaps, good luck! Just joking.

1)If you try to use a wood putty type filler, it will soak up the cetol or stain and darken more than the surrounding areas.

2)If you mix sanding dust (from teak) with any glue, the glue will prevent the cetol or stain from soaking in and it will probably look lighter than the surrounding areas.

If the gaps are big enough, I'd recommend carving pieces of teak to fit and carefully glue them in. Too much glue and it won't allow the cetol to soak in, resulting in...see #2 above.

Just my two cents worth.
Good luck.

Edited by - on

Lightnup
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1016 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2005 : 21:20:49

Thanks for the info guys. I'm headed off to pick up some Gorilla Glue in the morning and return my teak rail to wholeness again.

Now, I know that if I went to the Leon Sisson school of teak repair, I would remove every single piece of exterior teak on the boat, voyage to Southeast Asia and personally select the teak tree from which I would hand carve exact reproductions of the originals, then I would design and build from scratch airtight containers to ship the wood home. Then, using the ancient secrets of old-world woodcrafting artisans, I would make my own wooden dowels and plugs with which to install the teak so that even the seams between any two adjoining pieces could not be seen. Finally, after painstakingly applying 25 coats of varnish (sanding every inch of every piece between each coat), I would strip it down and do it over just to make sure it's right.

Leon, I stand in awe of the thoroughness and craftsmanship that you use in maintaining your boat. May I someday have the patience that you display.

Steve

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2005 : 23:16:12

Steve M,<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Now, I know that if I went to the Leon Sisson school of teak repair<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">You have learned your lessons well, Grasshopper.

Or maybe that was just a lucky guess on your part. On one of my previous boats, I did make my own custom handrails starting from rough sawn teak lumber hand selected from the vintage stock at the local wooden boat marina where I used to work (a.k.a. "The Marina That Time Forgot" where the 4th generation of the founding family now works). I used the same technique described in Don Casey's "This Old Boat" which makes "hand carving" hand rails a breeze.

I hope I haven't given y'all the false impression that my C-25 is a masterpiece of show quality cosmetics. Those of you who have seen it know better!

I take the approach that no amount of sanding and polishing is going to change the fact that the C-25s haven't been new boats for quite a while, and have all seen a lot of use in the mean time. However, I would say I try to keep mine in fairly reliable condition.

Regarding techniques for patching busted teak, a lot depends on the specifics of the break. Master Marine Consultant Hopper has a good point with his mention of biscuits, where there's room to use them. A related technique would be to use several thin stainless steel pins (home made finishing nails) perpendicular to the break, in combination with epoxy or other good wood glue. After all, Orthopedic surgeons pin bones back together. (A nurse of my aquaintance once told me that in an orthopedic operating room, "Once the patient is under, it's woodshop time!") I would also use acetone to rinse the natural teak oils out of the wood you want any glue to stick to. I agree that for the least visible repair, trim back large gaps and fill with solid wood of the same species.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

Lightnup
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1016 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2005 : 00:39:09

Okay, I'll show my ignorance - once again. What's a biscuit? (He asks, obviously leaving himself wide open for smart-aleck responses.)

Steve

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2005 : 01:01:39

I belive this will awnser all of your questions

http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=1093

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2005 : 07:08:42

Edited by - Frank Hopper on 03/01/2005 07:09:17

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2005 : 07:56:06

I agree with John Mason - Gorilla Glue. I fixed one of my hand rails three years ago and the repair hasn't budged since. I didn't do anything special. Just made sure the area to be glued was clean and dry,and follwed the instructions on the bottle.

Al
GALLIVANT #5801

Edited by - on

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2005 : 10:06:12

Maybe one of our Gorilla Glue adherents (he he he)won't mind reading the label and identify its contents. Might have the stuff already on the shelf.

Val on the hard DAGNABIT

Edited by - on

Gambit
Navigator

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USA
160 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2005 : 14:04:51

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Lightnup
 Okay, I'll show my ignorance - once again. What's a biscuit? (He asks, obviously leaving himself wide open for smart-aleck responses.)

Steve
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

:You must not be a fan of Norm Abrams and The New Yankee Workshop (check your local PBS listings). See the link below and you can see every biscuit toy invented.

http://www.newyankee.com/fanmail/shop_category2.php3?category_pk=5&category_nm=Tools+%26+Accessories

That guy is amazing with wood projects.

I can't afford the joiner so the Gorilla glue looks like a good option if I break something this summer.

George

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2005 : 15:25:47

George, Holy Crap! I just looked at your club's website. I am totally intimidated. We think we are pretty lucky with water and electricity at the slips. You have waiters!!!!!!!!!! Dude, someday I hope I can come visit.

Edited by - Frank Hopper on 03/01/2005 15:28:09

John Mason
Admiral

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USA
687 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2005 : 12:51:15

Val,
I looked at my bottle of Gorilla Glue. All it listed was "contains: pre polymized MDI, Diphenyl-methane-4.4 Diisocyanate." Non-thermoplastic Solvent free 100% waterproof

Thought I saw somewhere that it was a polyurethane glue, but nothing on the bottle indicates that.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2005 : 13:22:03

1/4" teak dowel pins are the traditional means used to hide screwheads, and they are also a good way to pin a broken part back together. They make a repair that is hardly noticeable.

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Gambit
Navigator

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USA
160 Posts

Response Posted - 03/04/2005 : 12:10:35

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com
 George, Holy Crap! I just looked at your club's website. I am totally intimidated. We think we are pretty lucky with water and electricity at the slips. You have waiters!!!!!!!!!! Dude, someday I hope I can come visit.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Frank, thanks for checking my club's site. My boat's PO is likely standing in that picture. We have a great club with a great bar and one of the finest restaurants in Canandaigua, NY. Reservations required on the busy days. There is no waiter service at the waterfront, no slips either. We either dry sail or tie to moorings (all C25's are on moorings).

We hosted the Sunfish North American last year and will host the Shark
National this August. Our kids attended sailing camp for two year before we joined last year. The sailors there were generous with knowledge and crewing opportunities so I was able to get comfortable enough to buy a Catalina 25.

You are very welcome to visit for a race, cruise, drink, dinner or all.

George

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