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johnsonp
Admiral

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USA
606 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/11/2005 :  21:59:19  Show Profile
My first time on a C250 and behind the tiller.
I was alone and should have reefed because beyond the bridge, wind was 12-18 knots according to meter and a lot of weather helm.
A full 110 jib and main out and was able to pull off a jibe felt confident, c250 sailed well.
Had a problem getting used to having winches on cabintop, would rather have them on the sides.
The jib sheets kept tangling with the main sheet traveler snap shackel, until I dropped them thru the hatchand let them hang there.
The jib sheets were inside the stays.......
I have a 155 genoa and in lite winds I think the sheets should be out side the main stays. Not sure good location of sheet blocks.
paulj#719

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aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2005 :  09:28:48  Show Profile  Visit aeckhart's Homepage
Paul,

Nice photo. This is the first time I've really noticed the C250 main hatch setup. Much better than the C25 which has teak slide rails. Frankly, if I could eliminate all the teak on the exterior of the boat I would. Looks nice but......what a chore.

I agree with you regarding the jib sheet traveler. The cabin top traveler is probably a result of the elimination of weather decks, a sacrifice made for interior volume. The weather decks on the C25 keep you lower on the boat when going foward and allow a wider range of jib sheeting options (my opinion).

Al
GALLIVANT #5801

Edited by - aeckhart on 03/12/2005 09:39:34
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JJM
Navigator

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USA
170 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2005 :  11:37:48  Show Profile
When I bought my boat last year, the dealer advised me to put the jib sheets in between the 2 turnbuckles then through the jib cars with a figure 8 stopper knot. They hang ouside the winches when windward. By doing this I've never had a problem with the jib sheets interfering with the mainsheet traveler.

Edited by - JJM on 03/12/2005 11:46:49
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kbq
1st Mate

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USA
99 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2005 :  15:56:15  Show Profile
Well, OK, it was early winter, but you still can't beat the Bay!


Headed out to the Gate


Angel Island and the Gate


Kevin
"wait for me"
250wk #751

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Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2005 :  19:42:59  Show Profile
Hey Kevin, I was checking out your Bay pictures and noticed your VHF Coax through deck setup. Do you have a close up picture of where the Coax comes up from your cabin? I'm still trying to decide how I'm going to run my coax through the cabin top and I'm curious on your setup.

Edited by - Tom Potter on 03/14/2005 19:59:26
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kbq
1st Mate

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USA
99 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2005 :  20:34:22  Show Profile
Tom -

I've simply got the coax running up through a compression fitting. Don't like it - the sucker leaked util I gooped it up. It's something like this: [url="http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=3570&catalogId=10001&classNum=30&subdeptNum=29&storeNum=3"]coax fitting[/url]

I'm still looking for a good PL259 barrel through-hull as a better solution.

Kevin
"wait for me"
250wk #751

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Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2005 :  20:53:07  Show Profile
I was afraid of the leaking issue, I had heard of those leaking. Something about the weight of the coax fittings putting a strain on the seal. How long of a PL259 barrel do you think you will need to go through the deck?

Check out toward the bottom of this web page, they have many lengths of the PL259.
http://www.buxcommco.com/RFconnectors.htm

Edited by - Tom Potter on 03/14/2005 20:59:51
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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2005 :  22:15:21  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
Kevin, a SO-239 barrel with nuts should work fine. There will be a slight amount of concern that the barrel will turn and the bedding seal broken.

An alternative (what I did) is to use a SO-239 chassis connector and hood, silver plated if it can be found as soldering is much easier to the hood. If using a nickle plated brass connector, file the plating off where the coax will solder to the hood. Nickle is hard to solder to.

If using a hood, drill a weep hole so water doesn't puddle and short out the connector. A chassis connector has the benefit of four small screws which will lock it from any chance of turning.

The barrel would be the simpler of the two installations however.


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kbq
1st Mate

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USA
99 Posts

Response Posted - 03/15/2005 :  11:38:09  Show Profile
Arlyn -

Agreed, chassis type is best. Have to break out the soldering iron, then. Oh well!

In any case, I'm still looking for a cap. Would be best to keep the connector covered when not in use.

Tom - great site - thanks!

Kevin
"wait for me"
250wk #751

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 03/15/2005 :  15:20:43  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
I'm using a rubber end off a roll of coax or something...can't recall where it came from but was in a tool box. Screw on covers are available from Newark Electronics.

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Steve Raffel
Captain

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262 Posts

Response Posted - 03/15/2005 :  16:14:09  Show Profile
Kevin, I noticed that your blocks aren't seen in the photo. How far back do you have them? Do you change their position depending on your point of sail? I keep mine closer to the bow but have never been happy with their location on all points of sail.

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kbq
1st Mate

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USA
99 Posts

Response Posted - 03/16/2005 :  12:59:20  Show Profile
Steve -

In that particular picture they were indeed back - we were experimenting. And no, *no* settings are "correct" for all points of sail. Were we racing, I suspect most of our time would be spent moving cars and playing SuperGrinder!

The Admiral and I play with sail settings from time to time, particularly when the wine is not chilled and at hand... 8D

Kevin
"wait for me"
250wi #751

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