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Swing Keel work before splash day

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clayC
Navigator

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USA
207 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/15/2005 : 17:40:38

We really beat this subject up but I have a few specific Questions. Once I get this bolt out

then i need to know what to do about the cracking in my keel

My next Question is what has the PO done with my hanger bolts, It seems one is upside down.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd35b3127cce90fe69d2cc0900000016108BcMm7Jqzb0http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5dd35b3127cce90fe615b4db400000036118BcMm7Jqzb0

Its almost splash day and I have to make sure my keel wont fall off this Old Boat.

Thanks,
Clay<center></center><div align="left"></div id="left">

Kamalla 1980 C25 SK/TR

Edited by - clayC on 03/16/2005 18:02:21

clayC
Navigator

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USA
207 Posts

Response Posted - 03/15/2005 : 17:42:48

Humm that didnt work out to well, I know how that scrooling from side to side bothers some I will try and do better

Clay C

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 03/15/2005 : 20:41:17

Wow... that was a disaster just waiting to happen. I think you get the prize for the rustiest swing keel cable attachment in the fleet.

I wonder if the 'upside-down' keel hanger bolt is a piece of all-thread? Is there a bolt head visible inside the hull?

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5909 Posts

Response Posted - 03/16/2005 : 10:13:36

Cast iron keels start out as fairly crude castings, and they need to be faired. The cracks you are seeing appear to be fairing material that water has penetrated and has cracked. Whenever that happens to my boat, I use a hammer and chisel to chip out all the loose fairing material. Then I wire brush it with a wire brush attachment in an electric drill. Then wash it with a solvent. If bare metal is showing, I coat it first with a rust reformer, just to prevent the iron from oxidizing before I start filling it. Next, I apply two coats of a coal tar epoxy to seal it. Then fill it with an epoxy compound designed for underwater use. Finally, I sand it smooth, put a couple of coats of coal tar epoxy over it and cover it with bottom paint.

This work is a little tedious, but it doesn't require any real expertise. It's the kind of work that the average home handyman can do, if he's so inclined.

There are a couple of principles to keep in mind. First, for years my keel erupted with cracks like that every 2-3 years. I finally put a zinc on my keel about 3 years ago, and haven't had any indication of a problem since. I suspect that, whenever even the slightest dampness penetrates the fairing compound (which is inevitable), the iron in the keel reacts with any submerged metal in the vicinity, and electrolysis causes gas to form under the fairing compound. The gas lifts the compound, and causes it to separate from the keel, and cracks form. If there is a zinc on the keel, it prevents the reaction that causes gas pockets to form, even though a little moisture may penetrate the fairing compound. In other words, I think it is inevitable that a little moisture is going to penetrate the fairing compound, but it could remain there for a long time without being noticeable. What causes the cracks is the formation of gas, that lifts the fairing compound from the keel. If you stop the reaction that causes the gas formation, you retard the damaging effects of the moisture. That's my theory, anyway.

Secondly, the owner of a fiberglass supply company told me that water is one of the most persistently penetrating substances. In time it can penetrate almost everything. Therefore, you need to be meticulous in sealing it out. Some people strip and sandblast the entire keel, and that's undoubtedly the best way to do it, but that's more work and expense, and I suggest you try it this way first. If it doesn't work, you can always do it the hard way next year.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/16/2005 : 12:02:07

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by clayC</i>
<br />Humm that didnt work out to well, I know how that scrooling from side to side bothers some I will try and do better

Clay C
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Clay,

To eliminate the scrolling, go back and edit your original post and put a carriage return (Enter) between your sentences and pictures. This will put the photos below your type instead of on the same line.

Edited by - on

JoergK
Navigator

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USA
140 Posts

Response Posted - 03/16/2005 : 16:19:07

make sure that the area where the zinc attaches is bare metal (i.e. without fairing material).

Edited by - on

tzk53s
1st Mate

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USA
33 Posts

Response Posted - 03/17/2005 : 12:50:28

I went through the swing keel re-finish two years ago and have not had any issues since. With a obvious ferrous steel bolt in the keel like the one in the picture it is a wonder it came out at all. Replace with a stainless bolt eye as recommended from Catalina direct or equivalent. Buy yourself a decent respirator filter ($30.00) once, you will find all kinds of uses for it. Get a good heavy duty wire brush and after chipping off the fairing Really go at the keel with the brush. Determine for yourself when enough is enough because short of sand blasting you will never get all the corrosion out of the various nooks and crannies.
Once your satisfied then get this good cast iron primer that reacts chemically with the steel and put it on according to directions, there is usually a time limit on recoat and topcoat for this stuff. I used something from West Marine but go somewhere with a good selection and read for yourself. Next was a epoxy topcoat made to go with the metal reactant primer. Stuff is amazing and will last for....who knows as I have seen no degradation after two years in freshwater. Next fairing is applied as much as you think necessary. Fairing is only to reduce drag in the water for performance and create less surface area for "things" to cling to. After all this go with what ever is your bottom coat.
Also, and this is a big one: With a hanger bolt that bad check your side to side movement of the keel. I bet your swing pin and bearings need replacement. Again for about $90.00 Catalina direct has the stuff. The bushing, and new blocks are larger then is necessary due to the tolerances in keel width so you will have to measure the differnces and either machine down or file(takes forever) the block to fit. Since to do a good job on the keel you will have to use threaded rod to lower it from the keel trunk anyhow this is not as bad as it seems.
DO NOT EVER GET UNDER the keel as the darn thing weighs about 1500 pounds! I did a combination of jacking the boat off the trailer to support it with blocks to get the hull high enough for lowering the keel. The good news is that if done right it only should need doing every ????? years.

Edited by - on

clayC
Navigator

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USA
207 Posts

Response Posted - 03/17/2005 : 18:35:38

Thank you for all the good advice
and thank you for your patience for
reading this fouled up post.
The eye bolt brok off. The guys
at CD sent me the stuff to drill it out
and Fix it.
This weekend I will start on the fairing
and hope fully stick it in the water
in two weeks.

Thanks again for all the good advice.
ClayC

Edited by - on

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