Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
<font face='Courier New'></font id='Courier New'> Alright, I have read these forums for the months I have owned my boat and I consider you folks among the most knowledgable out there when it comes to all things C25 and now I need your kind assistance. I have my boat docked in the water all the time and I don't go to it nearly enough. On my last visit I was shocked and horrified. It seems some idiot was doing metal work on his boat or lift and steel flakes showered the top of my boat. Needless to say this being Florida and me not getting out to the boat in over a month left these flakes in the sun, rain and humidity RUSTING! I am currently going through the marina to get the persons responsible and I am informed that I am covered under insurance... but I dont really want to have to rely on these avenues, I want to do what I can now to get it off. I have the flecks of metal off the boat but still there are rust stains, the ENTIRE deck is freckled bow to engine. I truly want to ball whenever I see it, Im not a rich man and what I have I maintain... what I need to know is what you guys recommend to get this stuff out myself. Sweat equity is the root of boat ownership even when it might not be brought on by yourself. I'll sue, I'll make my claims... if I have to... but if there is a cleanser or method of removing this rust I'd love to hear it. I'd post the pics but it would just make all of you cry too.
Mark, Sounds like a job -- rust spots are devilishly hard to remove from fiberglass. A number of things may work -- by themselves or in combination. Rubbing compound has probably occurred to you. How about Soft Scrub -- the stuff used in the bathroom. Failing that, West Marine has a product (a jelly like consistency) that removes rust ( it may take a number of applications to fully remove the stains. I do not envy you the task of many small spots.
[quote] <font face='Courier New'></font id='Courier New'> Alright, I have read these forums for the months I have owned my boat and I consider you folks among the most knowledgable out there when it comes to all things C25 and now I need your kind assistance. I have my boat docked in the water all the time and I don't go to it nearly enough. On my last visit I was shocked and horrified. It seems some idiot was doing metal work on his boat or lift and steel flakes showered the top of my boat. Needless to say this being Florida and me not getting out to the boat in over a month left these flakes in the sun, rain and humidity RUSTING! I am currently going through the marina to get the persons responsible and I am informed that I am covered under insurance... but I dont really want to have to rely on these avenues, I want to do what I can now to get it off. I have the flecks of metal off the boat but still there are rust stains, the ENTIRE deck is freckled bow to engine. I truly want to ball whenever I see it, Im not a rich man and what I have I maintain... what I need to know is what you guys recommend to get this stuff out myself. Sweat equity is the root of boat ownership even when it might not be brought on by yourself. I'll sue, I'll make my claims... if I have to... but if there is a cleanser or method of removing this rust I'd love to hear it. I'd post the pics but it would just make all of you cry too.
Thanks for your help.
Mark
Mark,
Bear with me on this one but time was when the admirals dishwasher got all kinds of rust stains within... there was a compound sold for such occasions that worked wonders. Toss a packet in and run one cycle and voila! I haven't a clue what it was called but seem to remember that prussic/oxalic acid contributed to the rusts demise. You might check out the cleaning products stores available to you. I think that the boat product called On and Off uses one or both of these chemicals. It's available from most boat stores.
Try a diluted solution of CLR (calcium/lime/rust) remover, available at most local hardware stores, and apply with a fine sponge/scouring pad. (fine !) Then buff any remaining scratches with a white/fine grade compound, or 3M marine clean/polish (got good reviews on this board if I recall) I hope there isn't too much on the no-skid sections - removing that will be a (pardon my French) "female-dog".
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Try a diluted solution of CLR (calcium/lime/rust) remover, available at most local hardware stores, and apply with a fine sponge/scouring pad. (fine !) Then buff any remaining scratches with a white/fine grade compound, or 3M marine clean/polish (got good reviews on this board if I recall) I hope there isn't too much on the no-skid sections - removing that will be a (pardon my French) "female-dog". <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> I was going to CLR earlier, but the network was a little slow and I didn't have time to wait. My only concern is what this stuff will do to fiberglass over the long haul? Maybe we could solicit responses from our many <s>nerdy</s> uhm I mean intelligent engineer types that can see if there would be any long term damage. We used some Acetone on a spot on our boat, but It is definitely not recommended.
JM's other comment about 3M Marine clean/polish... I would actually recommend the deoxidizer and polish...rust is an oxide right? Unfortunately, if your dealing with non-skid the word bitch (this is a test to see if it is picked up by the automatic board censors) is an understatement. Stick to working in really small areas (6" ^2)with the 3m stuff. If it sits for too long it becomes very labor intesive to remove it, I would imagine this would double in a non-skid area. (only 2sq ft for non-non skidded areas as well) also... have some sort of a power tool to do the work.
Good luck and remember, Only a neat freak would let the clean up of this project interfere with his sailing time! Work on it gradually if you have to.
Oxalic acid solution will remove the rust. Purchased in powder form mix it for a weak solution and add more if stronger is needed. Can be bought at West Marine or your hardware store.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Oxalic acid solution will remove the rust. Purchased in powder form mix it for a weak solution and add more if stronger is needed. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Just keep it away from your aluminum trim, and rinse it down very thoroughly.
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT
'Sorry to hear about your misfortune ... it's a shame people can be so inconsiderate.
Anyway, you've gotten some good suggestions ... add "Zap 2000" to the list. I've used it on rust stains with pretty good success. For some reason, not all rust stains are created equal ... Zap 2000 doesn't always work, but it's worth a try.
Sorry to hear of the problem. While I would be just as anxious to get it cleaned up myself, if you do have insurance coverage consider this: if you attempt to clean it yourself, would you compromise your position with the insurance company? Getting a pro to recondition your deck might be the best way, IMHO.
Thank you so much folks for your many informative replies. I will be taking a bottle of On and Off and BarKeepers Friend to the boat this evening and we'll see what happens. I looked at the neighbor's boatlift. The control box is rusty as hell but all of the pulleys and riggings are new. I am hopeful that the neighbor will be cooperative and give me the name of the idiot that did the work. The dockmaster asks, "Well what do you want to do about it?" I suppose that is going to depend on what happens when I try to clean this garbage off with these chemicals. If I don't get a quality result, I'll contact insurance, inform them of my suspicions and let them try to go after the contractor or the neighbor for the remainder. Needed a bottom job anyway so maybe while insurance has it out for the top, I'll get a deal on the bottom *snickers* ... I've been so bumbed that I have to at least TRY to make lemonade from these lemons. She's an 88 in good condition and I was just starting to get comfy with her size and the shallow depths of the St. Lucie River near Nettles Island... I've decided I'm not going to let this keep me from enjoying her... sails up, a nice breeze and a good angle... that'll bring me round again :)
Thanks again guys I'll keep you all posted and maybe even have before and afters when all is said and done.
I bought this acid spray from Wests and it works like magic on rust stains. I don't remember the name, but ask there and I am sure they will tell you. SoftScrub with bleach also works great, but you should polish and wax afterwards.
Some individual I know (who shall remain nameless <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>) left a steel wool pad on his deck for a week which left a sizable sizable rust spot. After getting no results with much scrubbing - he left it alone for a few days. A couple of days later the stain was gone - the sun bleached it out.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> A couple of days later the stain was gone - the sun bleached it out. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Sun, huh? I'd guess acid rain. Where does your "friend" live?
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT
Old message just read regarding rust on deck from metal flakes: I had this problem some years ago and successfully used ZUD (also called Bartenders Friend) with good success and a lot of scrubbing, good luck ,Ron C25 SR SK SW FL
I would try Naval jelly but, before I tried anything I would get pictures. As far as insurance is concerned the party that did it is liable for your damage. If it was a contractor then they have or should have General Liability Insurance which should cover it. I would move on this right away. If your neighbor was doing the work himself his liability insurance should respond. At any rate make yourself notes as to when you discovered it, who you talked to, etc, etc. I really cant believe people these days. Good Luck!
PS; while on the subject of insurance and liability may I suggest the following, to increase your liability coverage on your boat policy is very cheap. ie you can increase your coverage from 10 or 20k to 100k usually for less than $100 a year. when you consider all the things that can and do happen, this is not much money. just read some of the posts around here. running into piers, your boat get caught in a side wind and crashes into the boat next door. heaven forbid someone gets hurt on your boat. your liability coverage is important, dont overlook it.
This sounds too simple to work but I have used it often with great success. Use Chlorox in a bucket, barely diluted. Just wet your decks then using your usual boat brush just swab it on. You don't have to scrub. Do approx. 1/3 of the deck at a time. Let it sit for 10 minutes and rinse well. Move to next section and repeat. My boat is always white as a Chlorox bottle and people are always asking me what I clean it with. I use Simple Green for any scuffs. Worth a try before you invest is expensive "boat" cleaners. Most of them contain diluted chlorox anyway. Good luck- I'm sure you'll get that rust off.
Another variation is SoftScrub (sp?) with Bleach. It has a very fine abrasive as well as some Clorox or the equivalent. Don't get in on any colored clothes you care about, or THE ADMIRAL WILL CHEW YOUR ASS OFF! <img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle> BTW, we're probably a little late... The original quetion was back in April.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT
Dave, totally missed that the original post was in April but since that's the case I'd love to know how it worked out! Hello, Mpett, are you listening?
I remembered reading this message when, a couple of months ago, I discovered the best rust remover I've seen. I figured this topic had gone by the boards, but now that it's alive again I should mention this. The product is "Bar Keepers Friend." It's a powdered cleaner, similar to Ajax, in which the active ingredient is oxalic acid. I read about it in a very helpful and entertaining book, "Sailors' Secrets" by Michael Badham and Robby Robinson, which is a compilation of short hints and comments about all kinds of subjects by many well-known sailors. The name Bar Keepers Friend being irresistible, I had to try it, and it works great. The big test was the gallon-paint-can sized rust ring on the cockpit floor caused by some fool (here's where I slap my forehead and say "Doh!") leaving the can there for a week or so while he was off doing something else. You just sprinkle the stuff on, add enough water to make a paste, and leave it alone for a while. Then wipe it up and the rust is gone. This was nonskid, of course. I also tried it on some small old rust spots on the gelcoat and it took them off with no abrasion. The stuff also does a good job on stainless steel and just plaint dirty gelcoat. And here's the kicker -- it also cleans teak. This was also suggested in the aforementioned book. You make up a paste and rub it on the teak; the oxalic acid bleaches it. It does require a lot of rinsing, and a lot of oiling (I use cheap lemon oil, reapplied frequently; I am of course speaking of the interior teak). Of course, they have a web site: www.barkeepersfriend.com. I bought it at K-Mart, for about $1.35 a can. Can't beat that.
Always one more idea... Stains work with baking soda (a mild abrasive powder) and half a lemon (an acid scrubber). It works and it is organic. I have heard that too much bleach is not good on the glass.
A couple years ago some inconsiderate boob drew a line from bow to stern with a black magic marker on the side of my C22. I used plain old Clorox bleach on a rag and lots of elbow grease. It worked very well.
Any mild diluted acid should remove rust. However, there are products sold under the names "Iron Out" and "Resin Gard" sold by water softener companies that take Iron that has precipitated to a solid and turns it into a liquid again and it is removed. Yell "Hey Culligan Man" and you should solve the problem. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> John on Ms Achsa #77
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.