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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Painting Non-Skid

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luckystar
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USA
236 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/24/2002 : 02:51:56

Some of my topside non-skid gelcoat is looking thin. I guess I should say, i'm seeing something green (not algae!) coming through the gelcoat on the non-skid around my sliding hatch on the pop-top. Is this a serious problem? I was always thinking of painting my non-skid a nice camel color ot match the creme hull color. I'm actually okay with the dull, oxidized appearance of my topsides and wouldn't want to get into buffing all of it out! But...What do I need to do to prepare the non-skid surface for painting? I feel fairly confident in my abilities to mask off the non-skid and paint. What kind of brush, roller? What kind of paint?

Thanks in advance for anyone who knows and has done this!!

Patrick Burnett, Little Rock, AR
S/V Lucky Star #2707 1982 SK/SR

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2002 : 09:30:30

Patrick,
I would personally use gelcoat (since that's what is there now.) I just re-gelcoated the top of my rudder with products from Mini Craft of Florida. I've wasted money on the stuff you buy at West Marine or BoatUS which never cures completely. Paint just doesn't take the abuse like gelcoat does.
I'd suggest you talk to Paul at Mini Craft. They have Catalina colors. I'd suggest applying the gelcoat with a Preval which they sell also. They shipped instructions for surface prep and product application and are always happy to lend advice over the phone.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2002 : 10:43:36

Patrick: Is the wear toward the center of the pop-top? Does your hatch SCREEEECH as you push it forward or pull it back? It's common for the forward edge of a C-25 companionway hatch to drag along the non-skid, primarily toward the center. If that's happening, you should fix that before you paint/gelcoat (to state the obvious).

Some people have shaved a little off the center of the forward edge of the hatch, thereby raising it away from the nonskid. I'm planning on adding some pieces of nylon to the two rectanular coutouts on the forward edge, where the hatch rides on the two molded "rails", to lift it a little. I'll probably have to remove the teak rails to do so. It appears that the flanges that fit into the teak rails wear thin and then sorta give up on supporting the hatch as it was intended to be. The cutouts then become the support points--and are probably better for that, anyway.

I have no suggestions about recoating... I hope never to have to do it to a deck.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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1893 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2002 : 17:10:28

Patrick,

I would also urge you to use gelcoat instead of paint. Once you switch to paint, you're committed to repainting every couple of years.<img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle> Gelcoat holds up for decades.<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle> I've found gelcoat to be only a bit more hassle to work with than paint. Precise color matching on large high gloss areas was the hardest part for me. If you're recoating an entire non-skid area at once, that's much less of an issue. I got OK results with the large gelcoat repair kit form West Marine, but I also added other stuff pruchased separately from a fiberglass supply store and from a local marina that does fiberglass repairs. Once you get the hang of using gelcoat, you'll never be tempted to paint over it again!<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

-- Leon Sisson

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luckystar
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236 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2002 : 00:49:45

Wow, thanks guys. Now I wish I had never asked, painting sounded so much easier! The hatch does not screech when opening and moves just fine. the actual hatch shows no wear at all, gelcoat-wise. But it's the port forward of the poptop toward the center front that is thinly showing a greenish undercoat. But only on the non-skid portions. How difficult is gelcoat to apply? Can you mix up enough in a color to do all the non-skid on top-sides without it curing? This project will definetly be put on the bottom of the list now, but something I'd still like to do in the future.

Thanks again for the advice!

Patrick Burnett, Little Rock, AR
S/V Lucky Star #2707 1982 SK/SR

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2002 : 09:16:22

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
How difficult is gelcoat to apply?

Can you mix up enough in a color to do all the non-skid on top-sides without it curing?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Patrick,
The gelcoat has the same viscosity as, say, Rustoleum. You add several drops of catalyst and you're ready to go. The Preval I mentioned is a basically a can of propellant with a spray tip that screws onto a glass jar. Pour the gelcoat into the jar, screw on the propellant and start spraying.
As you are going to have to mask-off the not skid, I would concentrate on one section at a time. You buy gelcoat by the quart with the color already mixed - so you'll have a consistent color in all areas.
Biggest problem with store bought gelcoat is curing, or lack thereof. If you go with Mini-Craft of Florida, your chances of success will go up exponentially.
Don't be imtimidated - just follow the directions word for word.

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Dennis Pierce
1st Mate

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USA
59 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2002 : 09:39:47

Someone painted the non-skid on my C-25 and it's slipperier than owl snot on a brass door knob! Can I use gel-coat over the paint or do I need to remove the paint first?

Dennis Pierce
Gypsy Witch #1719

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Dave Seely
1st Mate

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46 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2002 : 13:55:23

Patrick
If you have any questions about having enough working time before it sets up, wait for cooler weather. Working time is at least twice as long at 60 degrees as it is at 80. You can also warm the area after the gelcoat work is complete with an electric heater and a plastic tarp. To get the gelcoat to cure tack free you will need to add "surface agent" to the gelcoat. Its a wax that will float to the surface of the gelcoat while curing to create an airtight barrier that will allow the gelcoat to cure tack free. If you want a color that isn't off the shelf, you can buy coloring pigments to make any color you want but always buy more gelcoat than you think you need and mix the coloring in first, then you can pour out small quantities of the colored gelcoat to work with and you won't have to try to match the color each time you repair an area.
Heres some places to find supplies.
www.fiberglasssupply.com
www.mrfiberglass.com

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2002 : 14:00:16

If it were my boat I would remove it before re-gelcoating. Who knows, maybe what's under the paint is fine? Not sure removing the old paint is worth the effort just to apply something different though. Maybe apply another coat of paint with some non-skid product mixed in?

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Leon Sisson
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1893 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2002 : 14:13:17

Dennis Pierce<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>... do I need to remove the paint first?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>Yes. I can almost guarantee that if you apply new gelcoat over old paint then you will have adhesion and durability problems, and will need to do it over. (Yuck!<img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle>) I suggest you try a chemical stripper and a soft stainless steel wire brush to get the old paint off first.

If the original nonskid texture pattern wasn't abraded away during the ill advised paint application, then you may be able to preserve it by careful cleaning, and then spraying the new gelcoat in one or more thin layers. (I haven't actually had to do this, I'm just speculating here.<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>)

-- Leon Sisson

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CatalinaGuy
1st Mate

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USA
55 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2002 : 11:52:40

Guys, what about the textured pattern on the non-skid panels? Will it be less effective when using gelcoat? If not the gelcoat idea sounds excellent.

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