Association Forum - Portside Window Leak/ Watermarks at Chainplates

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Portside Window Leak/ Watermarks at Chainplates

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greatescape
1st Mate

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USA
33 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/12/2005 : 16:35:27

Hi Folks,
Need some advice on a leaky portside window and water marks on bulkhead from shroud chainplates.

Window- Should I replace whole track etc? Is there a kit, how about sealant?

Chainplates- I think the wood is dry but is this a bad sign?
Do I have to rebed them? How do I go about doing this?

Thanks for any help

Scott

Edited by - on

Tony Dillon
Navigator

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USA
168 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2005 : 17:40:14

Welcome aboard,
There are lots of people with great advice on this forum!

I can't help you with the windows, but the chainplates are something that need attention. They at the least need to be rebeded. You should pull them out and inspect them for corrosion. Chainplate failure is one of the major causes of rig failure. I have done this when I have had the mast down. I'm not sure if you could slack the shrouds one at a time to remove the chainplate, inspect and rebed it or not. Maybe someone else will know the answer to that.

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coach
Navigator

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USA
231 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2005 : 09:00:50

Try a sealant on the windows. This worked on my 84 TR. Stopped the leaking in no time.

Can not help you with the chainplates questions, I have not come across that yet.

Edited by - on

Todd Frye
Navigator

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USA
222 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2005 : 19:22:20

The portside window over the galley has leaked the four years I’ve had Boaty (86 SK/SR). This was the year I finally put the leak at the top of my to do list. Lucky thing as we’ve have an abundance of wet weather to “test” my fix. I’m happy to report no leaks. My fix was accomplished by removing the inner and outer frames. Clean all surfaces, (aluminum frames and the fiberglass surfaces they touch). “Goof Off” removed the old caulking just fine. Once completely clean, reassemble frames on the boat, much like a dry assembly before gluing up a wood project. You are checking for “fit” in the same way. If you can fit a piece of paper between the outside frame and the cabin fiberglass, you will have a leak. As far as I could tell, this “gap” was caused by break down or core shift of the “sandwich” Catalina construction methods (a wood core sandwiched between two fiberglass layers). Over time, the wood core next to the window cut out rearranges itself so the actual thickness in the widow frame area decreases. This appears, at least on my boat, to have caused the caulking seal between exterior aluminum frame and the cabin side to fail. As they say once you know “why” then you can fix the problem. This is the purpose of the first dry fit. Your “why” may be different than mine. After evaluating the fact that the sandwich around my window area was too thin to create a good seal, I made some 1/4” thick shims to insert into the core area of the sandwich to expand the sandwich to a point where the dry fit created a seal that refused the paper shim. Knowing that the fit was good, I purchased glazing putty from a local R.V. parts center (never dries, comes in bulk rolls…I bought 6 feet…cost $1.00). The stuff I used was 1/8” thick by 1” wide, tan color. I removed the aluminum frame and carefully laid this glazing putty on the backside of the exterior frame, and reinstalled. There was obvious excess, but I left it until I (mostly) tightened the inside frame screws. The tightening process is similar to installing a through hull fitting. Don’t bottom everything out all at once. Mostly tighten, then walk away from it for a day. Come back and trim off the excess glazing. Now tighten down all the way. I left the little bit of ooze that resulted from the final tightening. Voila, no leaks. A $1.00 fix. Sorry for being so breezy. Todd Frye

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greatescape
1st Mate

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USA
33 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2005 : 09:55:20

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Tony Dillon
 Welcome aboard,
There are lots of people with great advice on this forum!

I can't help you with the windows, but the chainplates are something that need attention. They at the least need to be rebeded. You should pull them out and inspect them for corrosion. Chainplate failure is one of the major causes of rig failure. I have done this when I have had the mast down. I'm not sure if you could slack the shrouds one at a time to remove the chainplate, inspect and rebed it or not. Maybe someone else will know the answer to that.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3324 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2005 : 11:35:03

I rebedded all of the chainplates on "This Side Up" without dropping the mast.
Just slacken one shroud at a time, remove chainplate and clean off all the old "goop". Rebed with "LifeCaulk" and almost tighten shroud again.
When all done, leave for a couple of days and tighten down, then retune rig.
Derek

Edited by - on

John Bixby
Navigator

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118 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2005 : 22:49:47

HAD THE SAME WINDOW PROBLEM. COMPLETELY REBUILT THE WINDOW AND GOT THE MATERIAL FROM CAT. DIRECT. MESSY JOB. NEEDED THE SKPPPERS EXTRA PAIR OF HANDS BUT THE LEAK IS HISTORY.
JOHN ON MS ACHSA

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.