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 mast lowering (adventures of a mast virgin, long)
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ilnadi
Captain

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452 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/13/2005 :  09:36:17  Show Profile
(I actually have a question at the end, if you want to skip my ramblings pls look at that )

The list of things to fix on the mast had reached critical mass (lights, burgee halyard, exit blocks, windex cockeyed...) so asked here about an A-frame, built one out of 2x4's, built two bases out of 2x4 also, collected various links, webbing, etc and drove to the boat.

We ended up taking the sails down in 20+ winds blowing 45 degrees through the slip, but with me standing on deck and the admiral pulling the sails down through the companionway and forward hatch, that went well. Then removed the lazy jacks, boom, etc. Loosened all turnbuckles and disconnected forward shrouds. Ready to lower.

I assembled the A-Frame around the mast and furler. The peak went forward of the furler as I hoped (so I can work the impossible pin that took the two professional riggers 20 minutes to install). Tried to install the bases to the forward chainplates. HMMMM, the chainplates are NOT perpendicular to the centerline (they are "aimed" at the mast, duh!). So I'll drill new holes angled through the bases, oops, forgot the drill bits. Finally I get the bases installed, connect the jib halyard to the A-frame, attach a block to the anchor roller, run the spare halyard through and do a test pull. Ripped the bases clean off the chain plates. Grrrr. Turns out the block was too high off the bow, so when I pulled I pulled <u>in</u> on the end of the a-frame. Lower the block, pull again, now the A-frame (which is no longer attached at the bottom) does not move in. Good,but now I need new bases. So built two new ones, angles and all using more 2x4 and a 4-inch hacksaw. Tried to install those, I built two for the starboard side . OK, time to pack up and go home. Not meant to be

At this point one of the slip neighbors pulls up, says hi. Asks what on earth I am doing. Anyway, turns out he has a gin pole. With his gin pole and his help we lowered the mast with no incident. Even the cradle I built for the stern did not collapse. The mast is now down and secure. I even remembered to take off the antenna and the windex (hence the mangled windex and the new antenna when we trucked the boat).

Of course on the way home I realized I had suffered a severe case of solar stupidity: 7 hours in the sun with no suncreeen or water. Monday was unpleasant with a red neck and a dehydration headache.

Here is the list of things I want to do, what am I forgetting (assume I will never take the mast down again unless I have to)
<ul><li>Replace the masthead sheaves</li><li>replace/fix wiring and lights</li><li>Replace spreader boots</li><li>add halyard plate under mast step (can I re-bed without glassing?)</li><li>add burgee halyard</li><li>Align windex</li><li>replace exit rollers</li><li>Replace halyards (I guess the last two can be done with mast up)</li></ul>

Nadi ex-C25
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/enka
http://building-spindrift11s.blogspot.com/

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2005 :  10:25:13  Show Profile
Well, after yesterday's adventure, here's something you probably don't want to hear.

(IMHO Follows)

If this is going to be an infrequent event, simply enlist a reasonably fit buddy/relative/marina neighbor to help handle the mast... have your wife belay the line on the winch and forget the A frame. With two people handling the mast, it should be no problem. Of course, if your neighbor is around with a gin pole, that won't hurt anything either.

&gt;add halyard plate under mast step (can I re-bed without glassing?)

Most halyard plates I've seen attach to the plate on the bottom of the mast rather than the part attached to the cabin. Your mileage may vary.





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atgep
Master Marine Consultant

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1009 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2005 :  10:35:07  Show Profile
If you have help, use it! But with the mast down, now is the time to perfect the a-frame if you so desire. The forces are the highest as the mast gets lower. Several up-down cycles will help you figure out what works and what doesn't.

When going up(SECURE THE TURNBUCKLES UP) with rubber bands to prevent the t-bolts from binding. This tip can save you $$$$$$.

Great job and good luck.

Tom.

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5913 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2005 :  10:53:59  Show Profile
I agree with clambeach. But, you have a tall rig, and the mast is heavier than a standard rig mast, so you should have yourself, your wife and two other men to raise or lower it without using a gin pole or other mast raising device.

You sound like you dread the idea of raising and lowering the mast, but, once you get the hang of it, it's really not a terrible job. With three men to do the heavy lifting, you can just walk it up and down. Using just muscle power, you can take it down and put it back up in about an hour, or less if you're organized and efficient.

Do a search of our past discussions on mast raising. Our members describe several different methods for raising and lowering the mast when you have plenty of help, as well as when you are short-handed, and they provide lots of good tips.

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ilnadi
Captain

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452 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2005 :  11:03:43  Show Profile
I guess I wanted to do it short-handed with the A-Frame (plus a chance to build something else). For a one-time lowering I should have just gathered man-power, you guys are right. The time I spent on the A-Frame I could have put to use inspecting and repairing stuff. Without a trailer, lowering the mast does not seem very necessary (plus being a newbie, I do not want to have to tune the rigging.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ClamBeach</i>
<br />&gt;add halyard plate under mast step (can I re-bed without glassing?)

Most halyard plates I've seen attach to the plate on the bottom of the mast rather than the part attached to the cabin. Your mileage may vary.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

The halyard plate from CD definitely looks like is should sit under the tabernacle (for one, it angles out rather than up). So I assume I will need to remove the tabernacle and then re-install it with the new plate under it.

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John Mason
Admiral

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USA
687 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2005 :  12:46:57  Show Profile
"The halyard plate from CD definitely looks like is should sit under the tabernacle (for one, it angles out rather than up). So I assume I will need to remove the tabernacle and then re-install it with the new plate under it."

That is correct. The one I ordered from CD was not pre-drilled. Burned up a couple of drill bits getting holes through that stainless.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2005 :  18:31:09  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by John Mason</i>
<br />"The halyard plate from CD definitely looks like is should sit under the tabernacle (for one, it angles out rather than up). So I assume I will need to remove the tabernacle and then re-install it with the new plate under it."

That is correct. The one I ordered from CD was not pre-drilled. Burned up a couple of drill bits getting holes through that stainless.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

John, I asked Leon first! He taught me to move aggressively with a drill press. I used double tipped cobalt bits. Like butter!.

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