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Dangers of handling chemicals-new name

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/15/2005 : 21:55:45

The first thing I fixed when I bought my boat was the bow eye. It was completely loose. I found that the backing block had rotted and crushed. (I later discovered the source of water to be the anchor locker drain. I rebuilt the drain as documented in another thread.) My first quick fix was lots of 4200 and a pice of maple dowel. It seemed to work fine. This afternoon I was snugging the boat up for transport and noticed the bow eye was moving some. I went inside and removed the dowel and discovered the hull liner was crushed and open to the hull. I thought I was going to Dremel out the rough edges and fill it with epoxy putty and replace the dowel with teak wedges. The Dremel proved of no use, wrong angle, too much material, material not stiff to cut against; just did not work. I went with plan B. I took the SS strap that acts as an interior washer and put it against the inside of the hull. Outside I packed around the bow eye with epoxy putty to fill in the gouged out holes as it pull up tight. I then tightened the first set of nuts directly to the inside of the hull. Next I filled the void between the hull and liner with epoxy putty. I then had too little time to get it off my hands, take a picture, and get the teak blocks on so they could seat in the putty. Had to skip the picture of the filled void, sorry. Put the teak blocks on and tightened everything up. Cutting the block into two pieces guaranteed the hole alignment. This fix means this bow eye is permanent so some might not want to do it this way. I am ok with it.
[url="http://homepage.mac.com/fhopper/PhotoAlbum89.html"]Bow Eye Repair[/url]

Edited by - Frank Hopper on 05/03/2005 22:34:26

Dave Laux
Captain

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318 Posts

Response Posted - 04/17/2005 : 13:29:59

Frank,
My 1987 hull is almost an inch thick where the bow eye went through. I did not backing block it at all. No need. If you have to get yours out someday just heat it a little. 450 or so will release all epoxys that we might use. Last I hope you had to clean it off gloves and not yourself. I cannot emphasize strongly enough, keep epoxy of your skin. You will never knopw until its too late if you have goten enough exposure to sensitize you. Dave

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Chemist
Deckhand

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USA
16 Posts

Response Posted - 05/02/2005 : 21:49:18

As boaters, we work with some rather nasty chemicals. I second what Dave said and will add another class of sealants/adhesives/coatings to keep off your skin or out of your lungs, that being urethanes. Most urethanes contain free isocyanates, exposure to which can lead to sensitization. Further exposure, can then result in major medical problems.

Bob Imes
1980 C25 #1544 sr,sk "Prime Time"

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ronrryan
Admiral

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USA
561 Posts

Response Posted - 05/03/2005 : 20:38:27

Two items: (1) I was obliged to repair the bow eye on Orion in a major way when I got her, by marinetexing in a new backing block, etc. This may be just a normal requirement for maintenance, although Orion was never trailered in all her lifetime. (2) For the third time in recent years I have one finger on my left hand which suddenly, for no apparent reason, sheds its skin like a snake. I attribute this to many years of having fun with various epoxy repairs, whilst observing the male "I am immortal, and immune from all perils" rule. Alas, once one passes seventy, this rule bites one sharply in the backside. I urge all here to take every possible precaution with the nasty (and wonderful) chemicals we use around our vessels. In my early days we used Kuhls (natural) boat glue etc.and probably that is where I learned bad habits that do NOT apply to modern goop, words to the wise. God Bless all here, ron Orion SW FL

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Lightnup
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1016 Posts

Response Posted - 05/03/2005 : 23:17:40

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">For the third time in recent years I have one finger on my left hand which suddenly, for no apparent reason, sheds its skin like a snake. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
You haven't been hanging 'round the chili mixer at Wendy's, have you Ron?

Incidentally, speaking of chemicals, I re-caulked the little plastic opaque "portlight" over the V-berth last weekend with LifeCaulk...it had leaked a bit during the last heavy rain. Then a marina regular advised me that for some plastic-type materials LifeCaulk is okay but that it "eats up" other types and I might have been better off using LifeSeal to caulk that piece, which is supposedly more benign. Too late now - but might he be right?

Steve

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Dave Laux
Captain

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318 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2005 : 07:01:19

Yes, polysufides particularly will take the plastisizers out of plastics and make them brittle. Silicone caulks though not very good for most things will not destroy the plastics. I've been using latex plus silicone DAP for non critical above water caulk and it seems to work fine. Cheap too. Dave

Edited by - Dave Laux on 05/04/2005 07:01:56

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.