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 Exit Block Question - Update
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ilnadi
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Initially Posted - 04/17/2005 :  15:20:16  Show Profile
NEW Question: CD has the exit blocks on back order and I cannot visualize the exit blocks. Would it be possible to change the exitblocks while the mast is up? If so, I'll wait. Otherwise I have to buy a different block and fit it in.
thanks

Now that the mast is done, we are replacing as many things as we see in need. One are the exit blocks for the halyards. The sheaves are cracked/broken. CD advertizes replacements (Product# D1467), but it says:
"<i>These are perfectly sized for use with 1/4" line. Catalina Yachts uses them for 5/16" line also. When used with 5/16" the line does touch the smooth frame on either side a bit. Not enough to cause a problem, but still it does touch. The advantage is, the blocks only require a narrow slot in the mast, much smaller than a Harken exit block for example.</i>".

1. The new halyards we ordered are 5/16", so I was going to go to a bigger block (now that we have the halyards [from WM] in hand, they seem bigger than the old ones. Maybe the worn-out halyards seem thinner or we went up in size). Unfortunately the boat is 2.5 hrs away and we will not make it there for another two weeks. Can someone tell me how wide the slot is where the exit block sits? (1989 Tall Rig).

2. The deck organizers are aft of the mast base, to the halyards come out of the exit blocks at an angle. Should we re-direct again with a block at the mast base to make sure the halyards come out straight out of the exit blocks?


Nadi ex-C25
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/enka
http://building-spindrift11s.blogspot.com/

Edited by - ilnadi on 04/22/2005 09:10:26

atgep
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Response Posted - 04/17/2005 :  16:35:11  Show Profile
I replaced mine with the cd parts(1988) model. The 5/16 line does touch the sides but does not bind. I found that using the outboard roller in the deck organizer gives the best geometry. Your new halyards will likely "shrink" after being used.

All that being said, the 5/16 line will work just fine.

Tom.


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ilnadi
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Response Posted - 04/18/2005 :  14:47:17  Show Profile
Thanks for the info. Currently we need to pull down the main, but I am blaming it on the old halyards, the exit block being broken and the masthead sheave being cracked (one time I hand fed the halyard into the exit block and the main came down just fine).

Also, we have no use for the jib halyard for now (furler has its own). So I was thinking of leaving a small messenger in the mast to avoid leaving an unused halyard in the sun. Any thoughts

BTW, I see a number of discussions on ordering halyards. After looking at Sailnet, CD and WM and a few other places, we ordered from WM. The difference in price was &lt;$20 (and I figure we get $7 of that back in WM certificates). No one seems to make a halyard long enough for a tall rig in 1/4" or 5/16", so all would be special order. It cost ~$210 with S&H, tax, etc and we got them in 5 days.

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Leon Sisson
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Response Posted - 04/18/2005 :  16:37:28  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
Nadi,<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">After looking at Sailnet, CD and WM and a few other places, we ordered from WM.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Another time, you might also check with Defender. I've found their prices on line very competitive, and they're good folks to do business with. No affiliation, just a happy customer.

-- Leon Sisson

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atgep
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Response Posted - 04/22/2005 :  22:16:07  Show Profile
The exit blocks can be changed with the mast up. The only problem I could envision would be a snapped or stripped screw. If the mast is still down, you could break the screws loose and make sure there nothing was "rigged" by the PO.

Tom.

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ilnadi
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Response Posted - 04/23/2005 :  13:46:06  Show Profile
Thanks, I will make sure the screws are working before we put up the mast.

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