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John J.
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USA
157 Posts
Initially Posted - 04/20/2005 :  19:18:54  Show Profile
When installing new standing rigging, Do you loosen the spreader brackets to give you a little more working room?
1987 C 27
#6387
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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts
Response Posted - 04/20/2005 :  21:34:24  Show Profile
Yes indeed... otherwise you can't get the pins out.
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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5913 Posts
Response Posted - 04/20/2005 :  23:12:15  Show Profile
John,

You need to loosen the turnbuckles so you can get the pins out, but I can't think of any reason to loosen the spreader brackets when you're replacing the upper shrouds. Your shrouds should also have wires wrapped around them that hold them in the slots on the ends of the spreaders, and those wires will have to be removed. If your boat doesn't have the shrouds wired into the spreader ends, you should take this opportunity to do so, because if the shroud jumps out of the spreader end, there's a good chance your mast will come down.
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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts
Response Posted - 04/20/2005 :  23:20:22  Show Profile
When replacing the LOWER shrouds (stays) you need the to loosen the spreader brackets so you have enough clearance to get the pins out (or work on the cotter keys).

Uppers shrouds... no worries. Make sure you lube (lanocote, never-seize etc) all the stainless threads when putting the turnbuckles and bolts back together so they won't seize.
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John J.
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USA
157 Posts
Response Posted - 04/21/2005 :  06:09:26  Show Profile
Do you treat the threads on the spreader brackets? Aren't teflon lock nuts used here?
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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts
Response Posted - 04/21/2005 :  09:45:04  Show Profile
I usually lube all stainless to stainless threads... the nylock nuts have plenty of steel to steel contact which can gall up and seize... the nylon portion is just a little nubbin on the outside to keep it from backing off.

The nylon insert is undersized to jamb-fit in the threads. I've not found that lubing the threads affects their abiltiy to lock. I think for 'critical' parts, you're supposed to use
new nylocks every time you remove/refit. However, most of us probably don't go to that extreme. I will replace nylocks that I think are starting to wear and lose their ability to hold.

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts
Response Posted - 04/21/2005 :  10:58:24  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
John J.,

If you're concerned about lube in the threads making a fastener less secure, then use adhesive goop instead. I think ClamBeach's point, and my point, is to not ever assemble large (over 1/4") SS threads 'dry'. They most certainly are prone to galling. Once I was playing with a brand new 3/8" or 1/2" SS bolt and nut, and the threads siezed in my hands! When I tried to back them off with wrenches, I ended up wringing the bolt in two!

-- Leon Sisson
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John J.
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USA
157 Posts
Response Posted - 04/21/2005 :  18:33:30  Show Profile
I'm not familiar with the term galling. What is it?
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existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1180 Posts
Response Posted - 04/21/2005 :  18:56:02  Show Profile
Galling occurs when the stainless steel oxide surface film breaks down as a result of direct metal contact. Solid-phase welding can then take place (whereby material is transferred from one surface to another). The symptoms of galling include surface damage and seizing and freezing up of equipment. Galling commonly occurs when using stainless steel nuts and bolts together, where the contact points are subjected to high tightening torques.
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.