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fiberglass polishing tools

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little effort
Deckhand

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18 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/27/2005 : 11:11:09

We are going to have to put lots of rubbing compound on the deckside of our 1982 Catalina and follow up with a polish and wax. We are striving for the "wet" look. It may be a lost hope. The fiberglass has years of oxidation buildup. Rather than rubbing our hands to nubs

we want to know if there is a polishing machine with exchangeable, variable size polishing heads. There are so many little nooks and crannies to get into around the cockpit, cleats,etc. In years past I tried using the buffer we use on the car and it's too big and not strong enough. I also have a Dremel but don't have attachments that are large enough. So, if anyone cares to share their magic, dream machine's name and cost, and whether or not it can be rented (because I imagine it will be expensive), do tell. Also, what process and products would you recommend. Thanks. Little Effort

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2005 : 13:53:13

> "We are striving for the "wet" look. It may be a lost hope"

I don't think you will get that 'wet look' on old gelcoat without putting on some sort of over-coating like Vertiglas or Polyglow... or perhaps a similar automotive product. Heck, take her for what she is and settle for a nice clean surface with a softer 'glow'. (IMHO)

An automotive 'detail' shop (or web page) may have some specialty tools used in that profession, but I think that some good old fashioned elbow grease may be needed to get around the 'corners'.

I've had good luck with Meguiar's boat cleaner/wax and marine wax products. I've also used 3M fiberglass restorer which has a heavier grade of abrasive and are a bit harder to use, but may be needed on the first 'go around'. (note: if you get 3M,... be sure get them in the TUB packaging).

BTW, I'd start the whole process out with Davis FSR (fiberglass stain remover). It will bleach the finish to a nice brilliant white. I'd scrubbed my boat several times thoroughly beforehand and was simply amazed at the difference the FSR made... dull 'brown-white' went to brilliant white. Funny thing was, the surface looked pretty white until you saw it along side a treated area. Then you could really see the difference.

FSR is a gel based on Oxalic acid (there are other similar concoctions available). Keep the stuff off your skin. While it it doesn't burn badly, Oxalic acid is absorbed through the skin where it binds with calcium ions in your bloodstream. If too much calcium gets pulled out of circulation you can end up in serious trouble.

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2005 : 14:40:01

Little Effort,<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">So, if anyone cares to share their magic, dream machine's name and cost,... (because I imagine it will be expensive)...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I'm very pleased with my 7" Makita sander-polisher. Although I've had mine for several years, the equivalent current model seems to be the MAK 9227C, or something like that. Pricy? That's a relative matter... about $260 now, I think I paid $240 or so.

Features:

• Variable speed (0-3,000 RPM) dial for maximum control; ideal for ultra slow polishing.
• Pre-set (6?) speed setting dial (from 600-3,000 RPM) for maximum control.
• Electronic speed control maintains constant speed under load (this really works).
• "Soft Start" to save your wrists. (If you try it along side a similar model without soft start, you'll quickly see the value of this feature on a machine this powerful.)
• Easily converts to a sander. (But be sure to clean it really well before using it as a polisher again.)
• Mine came with an adjustable/removable front 'D' handle, but the new one looks like it has a straight side handle.
• 3 prong plug to prevent static electricity accumulation.
• Lock-on button for continuous use at any of the pre-set speeds.
• About a pound lighter than the competition. Within the first 20 minutes of use on topsides or overhead, this starts to matter.
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...the buffer we use on the car ... not strong enough.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I promise you will never, ever accuse the 7" Makita 9227C of lacking power!!! At 10.Amps, that sucker would rip your arms off before it would let you stall it. At 3,000RPM, you need to be carefull not to burn what you're working on. I've even put a 7" abrasive cutoff wheel on mine, and used if to cut and grind fiberglass and steel. It's unstoppable.
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...exchangeable, variable size polishing heads.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
For tight spots, try a 4" polishing bonnet attachment on a 3/8" right-angle drill motor. In my opinion, forget the Dremel for polishing anything larger than jewelery.

-- Leon Sisson

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2005 : 14:46:46

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by little effort
 We are striving for the "wet" look.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
It will blind and burn you on the water. You are also talking about removing gelcoat that cannot be replaced. Consider it patina and go sailing.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2005 : 16:09:56

I'm with Leon. I've experimented with various tools and polishing products and have settled on:

Milwaukee polisher - 11 amps, 1,750 rpms

No. 7 rubbing compound to start followed No. 7 polishing compound.

Collinite's #870 Fleetwax applied and removed by hand.

Good luck!

Edited by - on

little effort
Deckhand

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18 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2005 : 20:06:33

What a wealth of advice! Nothing like tried and true. Thanks so much everyone. Am off tomorrow to do some test strips. I'm about to conclude that the wet look is only in my dreams and the catalogues.
Little Effort.

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Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1773 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2005 : 21:04:22

Hi there "Little Effort,"

Welcome to the group!

Take a look at Frank's boat in this thread ... this might be the "wet look" you are trying to achieve: [url="http://www.catalina25-250.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8930"]Poli-Glow results[/url]

If that is the look you are after, search the Forum for threads about "PoliGlow" and "VertGlass" ... you could also "Google" them and get info from the internet (although I'm not sure I spelled them correctly). We've had several discussions about those products ... you can weigh the pros and cons and see if you might want to try one of them.

Judging from your profile name, spending lots of time buffing and polishing might not be up your alley ...

PoliGlow and VertGlass don't seem to be as labor intensive as compounding, waxing, and buffing, and the results can be stunning.

BTW, what's your name?

Edited by - on

little effort
Deckhand

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18 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2005 : 23:18:04

Wow! Now that's a shine like what we want! I will definitely check into the Poliglow and Vertglass. My name is Mary and I love to sail, especially when it is very "little effort."
Thanks

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2005 : 08:50:06

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by little effort
 Wow! Now that's a shine like what we want! I will definitely check into the Poliglow and Vertglass. My name is Mary and I love to sail, especially when it is very "little effort."
Thanks
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

My boat was so oxidized when I bought it I thought it was white. I used SoftScrub on the hull and removed all oxidation very easily, VertGlass (lovettmarine.com) comes with a boat wash that I used next to get all the SoftScrub residue off, I then applied 3-4 coats of the MopnGlow, er excuse me, VertGlass and e'voila. Prep is the secrect to everything and I am incredably lazy so this prep was for me, low effort, short time, great results. I saw a boat last night that has had PolyGlow used on it for some time, it looked terrible. My guess is they did not use the proper prep and the PolyGlow peeled in some places and they have since Polied over the peeled places and it Shows! Anyway doing it right is an easy afternoon with bearly breaking a sweat. Your arms will feel like you have been to the gym but hey, that's OK!

HOWEVER you have been asking about your deck and this is not recomended for decks because it makes them too slick; softscrub, go sailing. If you want ot dazzel others with your deck do it with teak, canvas covers and hardware!

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2005 : 16:09:06

You might want to look at 3m's deoxidizer cleaner waxer all in one product. But As advised above, they get really slick. Hazardous slick

Its also tougher than heck - even with a orbital, buffer, professional applicator or an army of people armed with chamois cloth to get the wax or other compound out of all the non skid.

If you really want the wet look make sure your oversailed and put the rail in the water as often as possible allowing the lake or sea to rinse everything off.

Your other alternative is to repaint your entire deck - not fun, not cheap

Welcome to the forum

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