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 internal vs. external halyards?
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Megsskipper
Deckhand

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USA
24 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/27/2005 :  22:35:33  Show Profile
Ok, the halyards are beat and replacement is upon us. The mast has got to come down anyway (right?) I've gotten some wonderful input that the wire/rope halyards sould be in the landfill, (most appreciative and i totally concur) so the all rope conversion is on. Have any of you folks made the conversion to internal halyards and regretted it? If so, pray tell why? Who's done it and loved it? The only drawbacks I forsee are perhaps...premature mast wiring degradation...compromising some strength of "the stick" itself...what am i missing? I'm prepared to make the leap...HELP!!

Michael & Alison
'79 Catalina 25 FK/SR # 1203

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Bruce Baker
Captain

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USA
402 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2005 :  15:59:21  Show Profile
I switched to internal halyards when I replaced my broken mast, and I couldn't be happier. Doing-it-yourself would be a lot harder. I guess you'd need to cut some slots in the mast for the lines to come out--and in the CD mast, there are some turning blocks at the exits. On the CD mast, the turning blocks are about a foot off the deck. There's no "jumping" your halyards with this system.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2005 :  16:20:28  Show Profile
I was hoping someone with internal halyards would respond to this question, but since no one has, I'll give my limited two cents worth.

I debated going internal a while ago and would like to do so, but this project is about the lowest priority item on my "to do" list because of the limited return on investment for me. I believe the best reason for going internal is that you will eliminate halyard slap on two of the lines going up along the mast. which I solve with a simple bungee so it's not really a problem.

Another reason to go internal would be that you would shade 20ft or so of halyard from the Sun and it would also give you a cleaner look.

There may be more reasons to go internal, but I'm not sure what they are.


Oops...someone beat me to it!

Edited by - dlucier on 04/28/2005 16:22:35
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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2005 :  16:25:05  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Bruce Baker</i>
<br />There's no "jumping" your halyards with this system.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Bruce,

What does "jumping your halyards" mean?

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2005 :  16:32:45  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
Jumping the Halyards is a term used more in larger boating, especially racing larger Boats. It refers to raising the sail

In some cases, there there isn't a can (winch) to put the line around because it the downwind leg and the kite trimmers are using the Winch. In others the guy in the hole (usually the halyard man) doesn't have the right leverage even with a winch to raise the halyard or lastly as a courtesy or for speed the Mast man or foredeck guy will go to the point, usually a bit above their head where the halyard (usually jib) comes out of the mast and "jumps" to reach it pulling out and down. The slack is taken out by the guy in the hole. This is repeated until the sail is up. In racing the decision to put up the jib can sometimes be made at the last minute, and having somebody jump them increases the speed at which the sail can go up.

And as the guy in the hole, without a can to raise the jib - I get quite grumpy when my foredeck guy isn't helping me out.

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2005 :  16:44:54  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
I have internal halyards and recommend them - but it takes some work.

You’ll need to do a number of things in order to have them.

First – you’ll need to look down your mast and make sure that the compression fittings are around the throughbolts that hold the spreader brackets in place. If there not, you should consider making this replacement to the new stainless brackets. Without the post covering the threads your risk excessive wear and tear on your lines.

Second – Every sheet metal screw that Frank and the boys put into your mast -- top to bottom -- should be switched for a machine screw or a rivet. You’ll need to tap the holes for the machine screws and use loc-tite on the threads. Also make sure your not going much more than a quarter inch into the mast. If there isn’t much load i.e. the lights or the antenna – go with a rivet

Third – The originally put foam in the mast to keep any wires from slapping around. The foam is roughly located midway up. Have fun getting it out!!! By the way will all of this work going on, it’s a good time to rewire the mast too….If you do consider running the wire in a small plastic conduit riveted to the mast. That way the wires won’t get in your way.

Next – Call Catalina Direct, I believe they still have a kit for the replacement sheaves. You’ll need one. The sheaves currently in the mast are made for wire and aren’t made to be internal.

Now For the cutting - You’ll need to remove the mast cap and cut a hole in the base for the halyards to go through. I f I recall I used a 2 inch drill bit drilling two holes, then used a dremel to cut out the center and make an ellipse. Don’t quote me on the size – Also check the tech tips.

You’ll also need to purchase some exit blocks. There are a number of varieties available. I went with an inexpensive wichard exit plate. In hindsight, I should have gotten an exit plate with a block inside.

I really like the fact that we went internal…. With the spinnaker rigging and everything else, there are two less lines that get in the way….
dw

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