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 anchoring the boat
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georgiaboater
1st Mate

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USA
72 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/04/2005 :  23:56:28  Show Profile
First, if this message winds up double posting...seems to be a problem with web site this date.

What size/style of anchor and length of chain/rope do I did to securely anchor in a 20-40 foot deep channel/lagoon.

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lcharlot
Master Marine Consultant

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Antigua and Barbuda
1301 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2005 :  00:47:03  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by georgiaboater</i>
<br />
What size/style of anchor and length of chain/rope do I did to securely anchor in a 20-40 foot deep channel/lagoon.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Depends on the bottom. Danforth works well in sand and mud, but not so well in rocky, gravelly, or seaweed covered areas. Bruce and CQR are better on seaweed. A 13# Danforth is minimal for the Catalina 25; I use an 18# for a primary anchor, with 20' of 1/4" chain or 15' of 5/16" chain. You need enough length of 1/2" nylon three-strand line to allow a 7:1 minimum pitch rode for "normal" conditions, and 10:1 for "heavy weather". That's a "worst-case scenario" of 400' of rode for 40 deep water. Most Catalina 25 owners I know carry 200'-300' of rode ready for immediate use on the primary anchor, and at least one other 200'~300' rode for use with a stern anchor or as back-up. Folsom Lake and San Francisco Bay, where we do most of our sailing, have small-boat anchorages of no more than 25' depth, so extremely long ground tackle is not usually needed.

Edited by - lcharlot on 05/05/2005 00:52:59
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Dave Laux
Captain

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318 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2005 :  06:49:59  Show Profile
We use a 13 or 14 Danforth, 25 ft of chain, and 150 ft of 3/8 nylon. I have also used a 14 Delta Fast-set on one of our customers boats and it works well. Better in weeds than the Danforth. Most of our anchoring on the east coast is in less than 10 ft. so rode length is not an issue. Scope of 3 or 4 to one seems to work as well as anything more in normal conditions and would sure make change of the tide easier in a crowd. I don't know where the idea of extra long scope got started but the angle doesn't change much past 3 to one. Dave

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2005 :  09:35:03  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
I carry two bow anchors, each with about a boatlength of chain and around 250' to 300' of nylon double braid.<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> I don't know where the idea of extra long scope got started...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">That's what it says in all the beginners books on how to go boating! I've had good luck with a 22# Claw (Bruce clone), 30' of 5/16" or so chain, and 7/16" nylon at a typical scope between 3:1 and 5:1 in protected waters. I use a small sential to hold the nylon below my rudder, keel, etc. during shifts. I think the use of a Bruce-style anchor, at least a boatlength of slightly heavy chain, and a kellet or sentinal cuts way down on the scope required.

-- Leon Sisson

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ct95949
Captain

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Aruba
300 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2005 :  10:28:54  Show Profile
Hi Leon,

Could you or one of the other experts elaborate on the "sential" you mention and how it is used?

I frequently anchor overnight in a crowded area with strong currents and a tide range of 3-5 feet.Anchoring correctly among my neighbors has been a challenge.

Thanks,Craig

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pwhallon
Admiral

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USA
694 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2005 :  17:28:23  Show Profile
Hey there Georgiaboater,

I'm in Cartersville. Where are you located/sail in the Peach State.

PW

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2005 :  18:50:52  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
Craig<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">elaborate on the "sential" you mention and how it is used?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Well, for lack of a picture, here goes with the "thousand words" response.

First I'll describe how I made mine. I started with one of those next-to-useless folding grapnel anchors, a shackle, a really large bronze snap hook, and about 20' of light line (1/4" dacron double braid or whatever is handy). I shackled the snaphook to the anchor, and tied one end of the line to that shackle. I also locked the achor flukes in the closed position with a big wire tie. I tied a loop in the other end of the line large enough to slip two turns over one of my bow cleats.

To use this contraption, first I anchor normally. Then I slip two turns of the loop end in the sentinal's light tether line over one of the bow cleats. The extra turn draws up tight, and prevents the thether (or the anchor rode under it) from slipping off of the cleat accidently. Next, I reach under the bow rail and clip the snaphook around the anchor rode. I then let the sentinal slide down the rode until its tether stops it.

If the anchor rode goes slack due to a shift in wind or current, the sentinal holds the nylon line down well below the prop, rudder, keel, etc., preventing the anchor line from getting caught under the boat.

Without this, picture yourself waking up in the morning with the boat beam on to an increasing tidal current, and the anchor line wrapped around the tip of the swing keel. But wrapped in which direction? With how many turns? Any overrides or other complications? Are you sure you can turn the boat around to unwind the keel without getting the line fouled on the rudder or spinning prop? Before I jury-rigged a sentinal, I had it happen twice in two days while waiting out weather in Port Everglades. Since I've started using a sentinal, I haven't had the rode foul under the boat even once.

The other, more often mentioned, purpose of a kellet or sentinal is to add catenary to the anchor rode. This sag in the line gets the rode closer to the bottom at the anchor, similar to using a longer scope. As the boat surges on its anchor, the catenary acts as a snubber or shock absorber to reduce peak loads on the entire ground tackle from the anchor to the cleat.

-- Leon Sisson

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2005 :  19:47:13  Show Profile
Quick question... do you intend to leave the boat unattended while at anchor?

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ronrryan
Admiral

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USA
561 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2005 :  20:40:00  Show Profile
Two items:(1) A sentinel is sometimes called a "rode rider" and they can range from just a large shackle with a light line tied to it, and a weight suspended from the shackle, which is sent down the deployed anchor line about half way or so, and is intended to put (as mentioned) "catenary" or "droop" in the anchor line, all the way to commercially produced bronze saddle-like affairs with a cast-in loop or eye at the bottom, to which you can attach the weight. For a weight I use a vinyl-covered little mushroom anchor that doubles as an anchor for the inflatable dinghy. This device both lowers the angle of pull to the anchor itelf (good) and takes the first shot of a gust, to reduce strain on the rode (also gooD) (2) When looking at Danforths, it is good to remember that the "hi-tensile" model is MUCH more effective for a given weight, than the standard model. You can identify them by the "I-beam" section to the shank, rather than the flat section with a lip on each side going opposite to each other. Fair winds, ron srsk Orion SW FL

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ronrryan
Admiral

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USA
561 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2005 :  20:42:37  Show Profile
Ooops! meant to say "fluke" not "shank" Sorry, ron

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ct95949
Captain

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Aruba
300 Posts

Response Posted - 05/06/2005 :  12:49:19  Show Profile
Thanks for the info guys.

I've read endless articles on anchoring but never came across this trick.I've been in the situation Leon described and ended up rigging a fender to the end of the line,tossing it over, then picking it up after drifting free of the tangle.I couldn't decide weather my nieghbors were amused or afraid

Thanks again,Craig

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georgiaboater
1st Mate

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USA
72 Posts

Response Posted - 05/06/2005 :  21:45:38  Show Profile
Thanks to everyone for their input on anchoring.......somewhere in there is a happy medium which I think I will shoot for.

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Rich G
Navigator

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226 Posts

Response Posted - 05/07/2005 :  01:30:19  Show Profile
I just bought a 14 lb. Delta plow anchor, 10' of 3/8 chain and 150' of 1/2 anchor line. I'll let you know how it holds next week after I use it; just splashed down today!

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 05/08/2005 :  21:05:38  Show Profile  Visit John V.'s Homepage
I started using the 14 lb delta plow with 30 ft of chain last season. It holds very well in many different conditions. the nice thing is that it fits in the anchor locker. Rich you will be happy with your choice.

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georgiaboater
1st Mate

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USA
72 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2005 :  11:06:32  Show Profile
John

Regarding your #14 Delta Plow and 30 ft of chain, how much line did you use and what were the most extreme conditions you tested and where?

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2005 :  13:21:52  Show Profile  Visit John V.'s Homepage
With 30 ft. of chain you can certainly relax the 10/1-7/1 scope ratio recomended by Chapman's. I sail in the Great Lakes where there is little tidal activity so that the ratio I use is more like 3/1. Some of the conditions I was in last summer were very rocky and the plow seemed to find it's way to a good hold. Sand, clay and weeds all were defeated by the plow. Wind shifts also seemed not to effect it's hold. The deepest I anchored was in about 60 ft and I used nearly all 200 ft of rode. I have another 150 with a 12 lb danforth for a spare anchor, but I usually use that to tie off the stern to shore. We sailed to Isle Royal in Lake superior for 10 days. The most extreme conditions were a glancing blow from a line squall with winds at about 40+. Even though the boat was sailing hard at anchor and laying over about 15-20 degrees the anchor held fine. altogether I have found the Delta to be an excellent anchor.

Edited by - John V. on 05/09/2005 13:25:34
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jlguthri
1st Mate

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USA
93 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2005 :  15:59:47  Show Profile  Visit jlguthri's Homepage
from the horses mouth..
http://www.uscg.mil/hq/g-o/cgaux/Publications/Manuals/boatcrew/ch10h.pdf

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georgiaboater
1st Mate

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USA
72 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2005 :  23:09:33  Show Profile
Josh

Thanks for the manual excerpts...very much appreciated


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deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2005 :  00:16:13  Show Profile
I have the 14lb Delta on bow rollers with 25' of 1/4"chain and 250'of 1/2" three-strand. If I expect a wind shift in the night, I let out a sentinel. I also lower a 1/4" release line shackled to the anchor. Since I often single hand, and find myself leaving a crowded anchorage in brisk winds, I need to recover the anchor without messing around, so I can get back to the business end of the boat expeditiously. Bow rollers are indispensable for the single hander. I also keep on hand a couple of 11lb Danforths as emergency anchors. I have a couple of times moored in an inlet with a current and have dropped the Danforth off the stern to effect a "Bahamian moor". Very useful in narrow passages where the current will change in the night. But make sure your neighbors aren't "swingers" or you may become more intimate than you might have wished. A final word: in a crowded anchorage/mooring field, I always put out three fenders on each side of the boat. I have had boats drag their anchors down onto me twice in the last four years. It's a lot less noisy when they hit the fenders...

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