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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by georgiaboater</i> <br /> What size/style of anchor and length of chain/rope do I did to securely anchor in a 20-40 foot deep channel/lagoon. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Depends on the bottom. Danforth works well in sand and mud, but not so well in rocky, gravelly, or seaweed covered areas. Bruce and CQR are better on seaweed. A 13# Danforth is minimal for the Catalina 25; I use an 18# for a primary anchor, with 20' of 1/4" chain or 15' of 5/16" chain. You need enough length of 1/2" nylon three-strand line to allow a 7:1 minimum pitch rode for "normal" conditions, and 10:1 for "heavy weather". That's a "worst-case scenario" of 400' of rode for 40 deep water. Most Catalina 25 owners I know carry 200'-300' of rode ready for immediate use on the primary anchor, and at least one other 200'~300' rode for use with a stern anchor or as back-up. Folsom Lake and San Francisco Bay, where we do most of our sailing, have small-boat anchorages of no more than 25' depth, so extremely long ground tackle is not usually needed.
We use a 13 or 14 Danforth, 25 ft of chain, and 150 ft of 3/8 nylon. I have also used a 14 Delta Fast-set on one of our customers boats and it works well. Better in weeds than the Danforth. Most of our anchoring on the east coast is in less than 10 ft. so rode length is not an issue. Scope of 3 or 4 to one seems to work as well as anything more in normal conditions and would sure make change of the tide easier in a crowd. I don't know where the idea of extra long scope got started but the angle doesn't change much past 3 to one. Dave
I carry two bow anchors, each with about a boatlength of chain and around 250' to 300' of nylon double braid.<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> I don't know where the idea of extra long scope got started...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">That's what it says in all the beginners books on how to go boating! I've had good luck with a 22# Claw (Bruce clone), 30' of 5/16" or so chain, and 7/16" nylon at a typical scope between 3:1 and 5:1 in protected waters. I use a small sential to hold the nylon below my rudder, keel, etc. during shifts. I think the use of a Bruce-style anchor, at least a boatlength of slightly heavy chain, and a kellet or sentinal cuts way down on the scope required.
Could you or one of the other experts elaborate on the "sential" you mention and how it is used?
I frequently anchor overnight in a crowded area with strong currents and a tide range of 3-5 feet.Anchoring correctly among my neighbors has been a challenge.
Craig<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">elaborate on the "sential" you mention and how it is used?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Well, for lack of a picture, here goes with the "thousand words" response.
First I'll describe how I made mine. I started with one of those next-to-useless folding grapnel anchors, a shackle, a really large bronze snap hook, and about 20' of light line (1/4" dacron double braid or whatever is handy). I shackled the snaphook to the anchor, and tied one end of the line to that shackle. I also locked the achor flukes in the closed position with a big wire tie. I tied a loop in the other end of the line large enough to slip two turns over one of my bow cleats.
To use this contraption, first I anchor normally. Then I slip two turns of the loop end in the sentinal's light tether line over one of the bow cleats. The extra turn draws up tight, and prevents the thether (or the anchor rode under it) from slipping off of the cleat accidently. Next, I reach under the bow rail and clip the snaphook around the anchor rode. I then let the sentinal slide down the rode until its tether stops it.
If the anchor rode goes slack due to a shift in wind or current, the sentinal holds the nylon line down well below the prop, rudder, keel, etc., preventing the anchor line from getting caught under the boat.
Without this, picture yourself waking up in the morning with the boat beam on to an increasing tidal current, and the anchor line wrapped around the tip of the swing keel. But wrapped in which direction? With how many turns? Any overrides or other complications? Are you sure you can turn the boat around to unwind the keel without getting the line fouled on the rudder or spinning prop? Before I jury-rigged a sentinal, I had it happen twice in two days while waiting out weather in Port Everglades. Since I've started using a sentinal, I haven't had the rode foul under the boat even once.
The other, more often mentioned, purpose of a kellet or sentinal is to add catenary to the anchor rode. This sag in the line gets the rode closer to the bottom at the anchor, similar to using a longer scope. As the boat surges on its anchor, the catenary acts as a snubber or shock absorber to reduce peak loads on the entire ground tackle from the anchor to the cleat.
Two items:(1) A sentinel is sometimes called a "rode rider" and they can range from just a large shackle with a light line tied to it, and a weight suspended from the shackle, which is sent down the deployed anchor line about half way or so, and is intended to put (as mentioned) "catenary" or "droop" in the anchor line, all the way to commercially produced bronze saddle-like affairs with a cast-in loop or eye at the bottom, to which you can attach the weight. For a weight I use a vinyl-covered little mushroom anchor that doubles as an anchor for the inflatable dinghy. This device both lowers the angle of pull to the anchor itelf (good) and takes the first shot of a gust, to reduce strain on the rode (also gooD) (2) When looking at Danforths, it is good to remember that the "hi-tensile" model is MUCH more effective for a given weight, than the standard model. You can identify them by the "I-beam" section to the shank, rather than the flat section with a lip on each side going opposite to each other. Fair winds, ron srsk Orion SW FL
I've read endless articles on anchoring but never came across this trick.I've been in the situation Leon described and ended up rigging a fender to the end of the line,tossing it over, then picking it up after drifting free of the tangle.I couldn't decide weather my nieghbors were amused or afraid
I just bought a 14 lb. Delta plow anchor, 10' of 3/8 chain and 150' of 1/2 anchor line. I'll let you know how it holds next week after I use it; just splashed down today!
I started using the 14 lb delta plow with 30 ft of chain last season. It holds very well in many different conditions. the nice thing is that it fits in the anchor locker. Rich you will be happy with your choice.
With 30 ft. of chain you can certainly relax the 10/1-7/1 scope ratio recomended by Chapman's. I sail in the Great Lakes where there is little tidal activity so that the ratio I use is more like 3/1. Some of the conditions I was in last summer were very rocky and the plow seemed to find it's way to a good hold. Sand, clay and weeds all were defeated by the plow. Wind shifts also seemed not to effect it's hold. The deepest I anchored was in about 60 ft and I used nearly all 200 ft of rode. I have another 150 with a 12 lb danforth for a spare anchor, but I usually use that to tie off the stern to shore. We sailed to Isle Royal in Lake superior for 10 days. The most extreme conditions were a glancing blow from a line squall with winds at about 40+. Even though the boat was sailing hard at anchor and laying over about 15-20 degrees the anchor held fine. altogether I have found the Delta to be an excellent anchor.
I have the 14lb Delta on bow rollers with 25' of 1/4"chain and 250'of 1/2" three-strand. If I expect a wind shift in the night, I let out a sentinel. I also lower a 1/4" release line shackled to the anchor. Since I often single hand, and find myself leaving a crowded anchorage in brisk winds, I need to recover the anchor without messing around, so I can get back to the business end of the boat expeditiously. Bow rollers are indispensable for the single hander. I also keep on hand a couple of 11lb Danforths as emergency anchors. I have a couple of times moored in an inlet with a current and have dropped the Danforth off the stern to effect a "Bahamian moor". Very useful in narrow passages where the current will change in the night. But make sure your neighbors aren't "swingers" or you may become more intimate than you might have wished. A final word: in a crowded anchorage/mooring field, I always put out three fenders on each side of the boat. I have had boats drag their anchors down onto me twice in the last four years. It's a lot less noisy when they hit the fenders...
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.