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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
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I just finished this project and have a few photos to share for anyone thinking about doing this. I drilled out the head of the forward most bolt partially hidden by the rub rail extrusion (made a bit of a notch in the aluminum) and drove it through into the anchor locker. I didn't replace this bolt. <img src="http://www.users.qwest.net/~jamason/Bow1.jpg" border=0> Then positioned the new fitting. <img src="http://www.users.qwest.net/~jamason/Bow2.jpg" border=0> <img src="http://www.users.qwest.net/~jamason/Bow3.jpg" border=0> Drilled the new holes oversized and filled them and the old holes with epoxy putty, duct taping the bottoms of the holes, of course<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>. <img src="http://www.users.qwest.net/~jamason/Bow4.jpg" border=0> Redrilled the new holes the correct size and bolted the new fitting into place with the 4200 fast-curing sealant Catalina Direct provided with the fitting. Snugged it down just enough to still leave space for the sealant to form a gasket. Don't mind the extra piece of stainless you see in these last photos. It's purely experimental. An attachment point for a block for the cruising spinnaker tack pennant. I have no idea if it will even work (so don't try this at home)<img src=icon_smile_blackeye.gif border=0 align=middle>. <img src="http://www.users.qwest.net/~jamason/Bow5.jpg" border=0> <img src="http://www.users.qwest.net/~jamason/Bow6.jpg" border=0> <img src="http://www.users.qwest.net/~jamason/Bow7.jpg" border=0> One other note: the surface inside the bow (anchor locker) where the backing plate goes for the two lower hull bolts was uneven, so I used epoxy putty to make a flat platform for the backing plate to fit to.
John, I'm doing this project right now! I got the old one off, got the new one rebent to fit the bow and plan on filling holes tonight in order to install the new one on Saturday. Did your two holes on the piece going down the bow both end up in the anchor locker in order to use the backing plate? And, why did you drill the new holes, refill them and then drill them out again? I was planning on only filling the old holes and then drill the new ones on Saturday?
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>And, why did you drill the new holes, refill them and then drill them out again? <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
This technique of first drilling an oversized hole, filling it in with epoxy, then redrilling a smaller correct sized hole is so that if you were ever to have a failure of the bedding compound(caulk), water would leak into the boat and not into the wooden cored deck because the cored deck is not exposed. If you didn't do this, water could get into the cored deck and over time could turn to mush. This technique is just a very good precautionary step.
See Don's answer above on the first one (if you drill the new holes "oversized" before epoxy filling the old holes, you can fill them all at the same time). Yes, both holes landed inside the anchor locker. If you're fitting the new one and the anchor locker drain hole is still below the bottom of the new fitting, then you should be in good shape.
Well, I got the 2-part epoxy all drying. The holes are done and filled. I used "Marine Tex" and it worked well, but it gets all over. I hope I got the 5:1 mixture right. The backing plate for the new one will also still be inside the anchor locker, so I should be all set. Also, the top hole on the new roller lines up almost with the bottom existing hole, so after the epoxy dries out in there, by Saturday I hope, I should be good to go.
Job looks great and will save your back lifting the anchor. Now some questions. 1. What did you use for backer plates for the deck bolts and bow bolts? 2. Did you have to remove the trailer eye from the bow? 3. Will this setup work with a furler? And if so do you have to shorten the stay?
1. The new fitting comes with a SS backing plate for the two forward hull bolts and large fender washers for the top deck bolts.
2. I didn't have to remove the trailer bow eye; it's much lower than the fitting.
3. I hope so. I have an old CDI furler and the height of the chain plate pin hole looks to be about the same on the old and new. I expect the turnbuckle will take up any minor difference.
I did it! I got it all replaced and finished this weekend! And, I have to say it looks good. I'm letting the sealant harden and so didn't step the mast and attach the forestay this weekend, but I'm sure (hope?) it will hold. Obviously the bolts are holding the bow roller on so it would have been OK, but it seemed better to wait. For someone who has not really done much like this on boats (this is our first "real" boat!), it's a huge accomplishment. I also replaced the keel cable, housing, turning pin, etc., and cleaned and waxed the hull this weekend, so we got a lot done! This coming weekend I'll be installing our new Snap-Furl roller system, fix the electrical hook-up in the mast and work on the teak wood. Too much fun!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.