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 Honda BF100 Contact breaker Points		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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Stuart
Deckhand

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United Kingdom
2 Posts
Initially Posted - 05/20/2005 :  15:43:32  Show Profile
I'm completing the rebuild of a Honda BF100 and having problems setting the ignition timing. I am using an ohms meter to set the points to open at 15 degrees before TDC but with the contact breaker set fitted to the baseplate I have a complete circuit at all times, even with the points open. When the contact breaker set is removed from the baseplate the points make and break contact as normal. There is no continuity through the condenser and ther is no power feed in contact with the baseplate.
This is the first outboard I have worked on and I'm following the manual to the letter, can anyone please tell me if I'm missing something basic here ?

Regards Stuart
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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts
Response Posted - 05/20/2005 :  16:21:42  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
Stuart,<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...with the contact breaker set fitted to the baseplate I have a complete circuit at all times,...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">It's been quite a while since I did this stuff for a living, but here goes. What I think you are seeing when the points are open is the extremely low resistance of the magneto windings.

To set the static timing of a points-type magneto with an ohm meter, you need a very sensative instrument and very clean ignition points. You're looking for the difference between 0.00 ohms and maybe 0.5 ohms (see shop manual for exact resistance of magneto windings). Not many inexpensive VOMs go that low.

I'm not at my shop right now to verify this, but isn't there a quick connector of some kind between the points and the magneto under the flywheel? If so, disconnect that, and see if your meter can then tell when the points open. (Set the timing and then reconnect.)

A third method is to pinch one layer of cigarette softpack cellophane between the flat, clean, closed points (before the flywheel reaches the firing mark). Pull very gently on the cellophane while slowly rotating the flywheel and watching the timing marks. When you feel the points begin to release the cellophane, that's the point of rotation where the plugs would fire. (I hope that's clear.)

Good luck!

-- Leon Sisson
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Dave Laux
Captain

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318 Posts
Response Posted - 05/20/2005 :  20:08:25  Show Profile
Yep, Go Leon!! A powered test light will get dimmer( a little) if connected across them too. I would guess that you are going to set the exact timing by some adjustment on the timing plate anyway (so that its right at high speed). Ah for the good old days of messing with points. Hoooo... Ha give me breakerless ignition please (and throw in the fuel injection as well thanks. In fact give me the whole OBD II setup). Dave
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Stuart
Deckhand

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United Kingdom
2 Posts
Response Posted - 05/22/2005 :  05:15:01  Show Profile
Leon/ Dave

Thanks for your help on this one, I'll give your suggestions a try with some brand new points if I can still get them.

My best regards Stuart
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.