Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Charlie, fantastic documentation of the installation. The Xray and installation graphics of the covers blew me away. I've received quite a few pictures of the installation from those who have installed but none have had a focal depth to get the whole as well as you captured.
Thanks for the kind words on the engineering... I wished I'd kept the volumn of sketches that explored so many attempts at a scheme that fit all the goals.
Charlie, how did you steer the boat with all that slop in the cable? I have seen a few poorly adjusted cables, but not one that bad. Looks like the installer just slipped the cables through, screwed on the barrels and locking nut just far enough to install the pin. No were close to proper. I like Arlyn's system much better and will probably install it before getting an autopilot also. One turn lock to lock is really a must for positive controll. Your documentation was really good and the xray vision was outstanding.
did I misunderstand something? I thought that Arylns mod changed the Lock to Lock ratio and resulted in several full turns of the helm to go from lock to lock. Easing the load in the process.
I'll read Arlyns article again.
Could not find anything in the Mod article on Arylyns site that states the number of turns required to go from lock to lock
The mod did increase the number of turns from one, to about two and a half. This is from one end of the chain to the other. I could only (just barely) mount the rudder in it's straight ahead position for the steering mod installation, and have not been able to check out it's full rotation of travel. I opted for the wing keel rudder when I purchased the boat and do not mount it until the boat is in the water. Someday, perhaps, I will purchase the beaching rudder from IdaSailor.
P.S. to Frog, the rudder wasn't attached in the pictures of the original setup.
Ahhh, is this one of the reasons why Catalina chose to produce a shorter rudder for the water ballast? Because the rudder couldn't be shipped/unshipped while having the proper tension on the steering cables?
Can the control arm be fitted/unfitted to the receiver while proper tension is on the cables?
After installing the steering retrofit and tensioning the cables I had no problem removing the original 2nd generation rudder and installing a new Idasailor beaching rudder. There was enough fore and aft slack in the Edson arm to allow the connecting pin to drop in without effort. Although I have only motored with the steering upgrade and new rudder it appears to be a significant improvement over the original arrangement.
Jim, I should have clarified my question to which configuration inquired about. The conversion is designed with an unloaded rudder arm and with rudder arm travel fore and aft to allow the receiver hook up with tight cables.
Prior to the conversion, were you able to remove and replace the rudder with the pull/pull linkage without need to slacken the cables?
I have had no problem shipping or unshipping my rudder with the cables adjusted properly. The only problem I have ever had was the first time. I was expecting it to sink like the rudder from my C25, so I attached the main halyard and apply tension. The result was when I unhooked the steering arm the rudder shot up above the aft pulpit smack my daughter side the head and put a ding in the rudder. I don't remember why we were even taking it off now, but after the shock we had a big laugh over it.
From seeing these pictures it looks like it would be possible to convert a tiller steering to wheel steering fairly easily. Is this possible or is the wheel steering have reinforced fiberglass in certain areas that the tiller does not (cabin floor for example). Thanks, Kurt
Kurt, I don't think there are any structural considerations to adding a wheel. Required are a 4" hole in the cockpit plus 4 mounting bolt holes for the pedestal and a transom cutout for the steering arm. It includes a boot flange, arm, and receiver bolted to the rudder.
In my opinion the project would go from moderately difficult to moderately easy just by getting the layout dimensions for the location of the boot and pedestal.
Thanks Arlyn, I may end up going this route as the Admiral doesn't like the tiller all that much. I'd also like to get an autopilot some day, which I guess requires wheel steering.
Kurt, They make tiller auto pilots as well as wheel pilots. Research the costs on this issue - wheel pilots are 2-3 times the cost of a tiller pilot. Add this to the price of the wheel/pedistal. You will be looking at quite a few boat units for this change over of systems!
The new steering mod passed sea trials with flying colors! Steering was greatly improved. Very nice postive control,increased sensitivity, and no play or slop at all. I rate it ***** five stars. You can quote me Arlyn.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.