Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Before I get to my question, let me say that this is a fantastic forum! You people are wonderful, knowledgeable, helpful...It is an honor to be associated with this group. I begin every morning before going to work with a cup of coffee and the C-25 forum.
Now to my question: I purchased a 1987 C-25 SRFK, #5641, in January. I removed all of the badly weathered teak and took a great deal of time hand sanding and finishing with cetol. (Something I learned about on this forum). The teak is back on the boat now and looks fantastic. However, the companionway boards are very loose in the channels. So loose that they try to overlap. I noticed that they were in this condition when I removed them, so I was very careful not to sand on the edges. Still, I would like to remedy the situation. New boards from CD are not that expensive, but these are beautiful other than being worn. I thought of planing the guide boards down to improve the fit. I also thought of installing some strips of teflon in the channels to take up some room. I am a nut for keeping things as original as possible, so, I really don't like either of those remedies. Any suggestions?
As for the hatchboard fit, I believe mine are a bit loose also, but not so much that they overlap. I don't have any other suggestions other than the ones you mentioned. Sorry.
Cut a rabbet on the inside edges of the slides and glue a piece of teak in to make them thicker, or just glue a piece into the track to make it smaller. Acouple of coats of cetol and you would never know it was done. Dave
Hatch boards need to be a little loose since a tight fit dry will not fit at all wet. Though they are set at an angle so they will come out, I have had experience with other boats in which the boards have become hopelessly stuck.
I have the opposite problem, hatch boards that are usually tight. I'd appreciate a bit more slop but I'm not willing to do anything about it.
If you really want to tighten up your hatch boards you might consider removing a smidgen from the bottom of the lower hatch. In doing so all hatch boards will sit a little lower. Since the boards are all tapered they will snug-up as the get lower in the grouves. If you should over do it you can remedy it by adding something to the bottom edge of the bottom board.
Thanks for the suggestions, including "live with it and go sailing". I'm about a weekend away from getting the boat in the water, so there is time to get the boards right. There is no side to side problem, and when stacked the top board meets the sliding hatch perfectly. It is the fore and aft problem that actually allows the top board to lap onto the middle board and middle board over the bottom board by a half inch or so. That indicates an excessively worn channel in the side slides. I think Dave has the right idea, so I will attempt to fill the space with some matching wood. I haven't had a lot of luck glueing teak, (oily nature of the wood I guess), so I will countersink some brass or stainless wood screws as well. I'll let you all know how it turns out.
Here's another idea for you, and it could be a temporary fix until you come up with a better plan:
Why not buy some of those small tacks that are used on the bottom of furniture legs so that they slide easily? All you'd have to do is to put a couple on the inside of each hatch board to take out the "slop" ... if you don't like it, just pull them out ... the holes wouldn't be in a place where they'd show.
Buzz, That's a great idea! That would also keep the faces of the boards apart when removed and placed in an old sail bag I use to store them. (I haven't ordered the hatchboard bag from CD yet.)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tcox</i> <br />...(I haven't ordered the hatchboard bag from CD yet.)<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I've had my hatchboard bag for a few years now and recommend it for keeping the boards protected. I like that they are contained in individual pockets that prevents them from banging around when down below.
Woodworkers usualy glue teak with fast set epoxy after cleaning each surface with acetone. This removes the oil and lets the joint set before any new oil migrates to the surface.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Woodworkers usualy glue teak with fast set epoxy after cleaning each surface with acetone. This removes the oil and lets the joint set before any new oil migrates to the surface.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
This is an excellent piece of info Derek. I have never heard of this trick for working with teak. Have to use it in a tech section thread on "Working With Teak."
These ideas are what makes this forum one of the best around...if not THE best!!!!
I had one of our hatchboards break at the joint after I dropped it to the pavement! I put it back together with 'Gorilla Glue" a product that can be purchased at places like Home depot and Lowes. Hope this helps. When we bought "Leprechaun" she had all her wood work on the outside varnished except for the eyebrows which are painted green and is peeling off. I will Not re-paint. I will Cetol as we did our Catalina 22. It lasts and looks so Much Nicer-Less Work too! Alan & Eileen
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.