Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I don't want to throw a monkey wrench into the fray, but I was wondering if you've already figured out how you're going to mount your bimini. This subject has come up many times, so, if you've followed all those discussions I'm sure you're all set.
On the other hand, if you haven't had a chance to do a search, it would be well worth your time ... especially since you've got a tall rig, because that really complicates installing a bimini.
One of the coolest bimini mounts I've seen is Don Lucier's ... his is mounted on cars that slide on the jib tracks, so he can move his forward or aft ... 'pretty cool (but Don has a standard rig).
I don't have any good ideas for where to purchase one. When I bought my boat and hauled her home, the bimini got shredded by the wind ... I took the old pieces to a local canvass shop and they sewed a new one for me ... I took a bath on it $$$$, but it's nice.
I can't give you specific bimini brand names, sources, prices and stock numbers. However, I do have suggestions about features and characteristics to look for. I much prefer all stainless steel frame and hardware with 1" tubes, and Sunbrella or similar canvas. I've heard lighter colors keep you cooler. A window (with canvas cover) to see the sails would be nice too. Pay particular attention to how the frame and straps clear the winches, and the mainsheet when on a run. Zippered bow pockets are a big plus. And speaking of bow pockets, consider providing some way to hang a lantern from the middle of one of the bows. I do this with a Colman-style florecent lantern. It makes a great cockpit light and anchor light. One final minor point, I've had trouble finding durable bimini straps.
I just ordered a Sunbrella bimini/kit online from Boatersworld and intend to mount it on the coaming tops rather than at deck level in order to allow some - although limited - stepping room to the outboard sides of the bimini frame. It was $279.90 for 6 foot long, 61-66" wide frame, 36-46" height. There's 39" from the coaming tops to the boom so am expecting to do some cutting of the frame to achieve the right height. I went with Pacific Blue to match the covers for the sail, tiller and grill. Here's the link: [url="http://www.boatersworld.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&productId=570435"]Bimini[/url]
With more research and diligence I probably could have saved a few bucks but it's hot down here and Barbara J won't go out on <i>Barbara J</i> until there is some shade. I was afraid that if I didn't take matters into my own hands, I'd come home from a business trip one of these days to find a custom built (i.e., expensive) bimini installed. I'll take pics when I install this one.
Do a search for "bimini" in the archives. There are several excellent threads with very helpful viewpoints on bimini installations.
We had a really tall bimini from the PO that we cut down to sit under the boom. It sits on the side decks around the end of the genoa track and runs from the back edge of the cabin top to about the end of the boom. On a tall rig, this has a few consequences:
1. I have to pretty much lay on my stomach to go forward (the admiral, who is 4'11.5" can do it by crouching, the supreme commander who is 34" can walk forward accompanied by screams from the admiral)
2. When I stand up at the tiller, I can see over the whole affair easily.
3. Being that low, it provides good shade
4. You don't bang your head on the boom because the bimini is there to remind you
Finally have a few pictures showing the bimini (http://mattcj.dyndns.org/~ilnadi/gallery/album07). As I said, it restricts movement forward and t is not as convenient as Brooke's (http://www.catalina25-250.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6903) but it met the following criteria: 1. We did not move the mainsheet 2. We did not move the existing brackets on the side decks 3. We shortened the legs and the forward-aft length but not the side-to-side (at the time I could not visualize how to do that)
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.