Association Forum - Installing Polycarb Windows.

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Installing Polycarb Windows.

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

Happy D
Admiral

Member Avatar

921 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/25/2005 : 09:22:52

Greetings Everyone.
I am in the process of refurbing my C25.
I have replaced the core in the coach sides. The window openings edges are filled with epoxy and will be trimmed square. I plan on installing Polycarbonate sheet on the outside of the opening for windows. I am not going to install a interior frame. The window openings edge, will be square, smooth and painted white.

I am trying to figure out the best way to fasten the polycarb to the coach sides. I have two ideas.
The first idea is to drill and countersink the polycarb to accept a flat head machine screw. I am thinking about using a [url="http://sri-supplies.com/images/Round-Base-Weld-Nut.gif"]weld nut[/url] on the inside of the fiberglass as shown in this drawing. I am not crazy about countersinking the polycarb. It seems like it would weaken it. The weld nut would be painted white but visible.

The second idea would be to put the weld nut on the outside and the countersink for the screw in the fiberglass. As shown. The weld nut would be painted black.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks Everyone,
Dan

1977 SK/SR Dinette Hull #29
1979 ChrisCraft 251
1965 Chris Craft Cutalss

Edited by - on

eric.werkowitz
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
283 Posts

Response Posted - 06/25/2005 : 09:58:24

Dan,

My neighbor did a very similar repair to his 40 ft Junneau last year. He used the weld nuts inside and, I believe, a bolt with a gasket on the outside w/o countersinking the Lexan. More importantly, he used a sticky gasket material between the Lexan and the hull. I recall this stuff was expensive, and I believe used in RVs as windo seals. His repair has held up well including a broadside from Hurricane Ivan last year.

Edited by - eric.werkowitz on 06/25/2005 10:02:27

existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1180 Posts

Response Posted - 06/25/2005 : 09:59:49

I wouldn't countersink the polycarb either. I would use flat head screws mated with countersunk washers on the outside. Another thought, when you drill the holes in the polycarb, make sure you avoid putting them in line with your standing rigging or you may have trouble drilling a straight hole in the fiberglass, assuming you are using the polycarb as the template. That's the only complaint I have about the Crusing Concepts kit I bought for Swimmer, two of the mounting holes were in line with the standing rigging.

Edited by - on

atgep
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

1009 Posts

Response Posted - 06/25/2005 : 10:13:21

Looks like a great plan. I suggest you use pan head screws on the outside without coutersinking. I would float the window on the fiberglass with about a 1/32 of lifecaulk or 5200. It will create quite a bond and the screws will be there to "help" that is the way mine is on my 88. I think you will me happy with the plan to use weld nuts. Just make sure they are well caulked to prevent them from vibrating loose.

Edited by - on

ronrryan
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
561 Posts

Response Posted - 06/25/2005 : 11:33:52

Based on some previous experience and reading, my understanding is that (1) holes in ploycarbonate should NOT be countersunk (2) SHOULD be drilled slightly oversize of fasteners, to allow for differential expansion, otherwise cracking is SURE to occur (3) SHOULD be fastened with pan head or other flat faced fasteners outside, preferably with washers, and not cranked down at high torque values. Sounds to me like the flat part on the outside is the way to go, and I gues there's no problem countersinking the inside core layup, particularly if you have reinforced it. Good luck, ron srsk Orion SW FL

Edited by - on

Doug
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
457 Posts

Response Posted - 06/25/2005 : 13:12:14

My standard warning: Be very sure about what you're mounting with 5200. I don't know how many years it will take for the polycarboante to fog, craze, or crack enough to require replacement, but I'm fairly confident that it's not as long as 5200 will remain firmly and solidly bonded to the boat.

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.