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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Just got a Catalina 25!

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DaveC25
Navigator

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USA
152 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/22/2005 : 16:55:33

I just brought "Pretty Penny" home last night. She's a '79 with a wing keel. She's now sitting in my driveway on a trailer.

I am cleaning her up. I was given a new rudder, but it doesn't have the mounting holes drilled in it yet so I will have to mount it. I also have to get her bottom done, so I'm on a waiting list at a good Marina that does it. It's going to cost ~ $1300 to strip it and then re-paint it. I also have to re-seal all her hull hardware before I put her int he water.

I'm excited because this is the first sailboat that I have actually owned! :)

-Dave

1979 Catalina 25 "Pretty Penny" #1166
Palm Bay, Florida

Edited by - on

britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2005 : 17:58:00

Congratulations on the 'New' boat.. that seems an expensive strip and re-paint, I would seriously consider a d.i.y job and the $$$ could go to some cool stuff like sails, standing rigging.

I bet you keep looking out at it! How many times have you climbed up into her so far. Does wonders for your health.

Enjoy. Perhaps we'll see you around south florida some time.

Edited by - on

Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2005 : 18:18:09

Way to go Dave.
Welcome to the group.
You will really like your C25 more and more
New members buy the first round

Edited by - on

John P
Captain

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USA
324 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2005 : 19:22:40

Good Luck!!!

There is a wealth of knowledge here!!

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2005 : 20:05:54

Hi Dave

Congratulations on getting Pretty Penny.

I believe that boat was previously owned by a member of the Catalina 25/250 Owners Association. Did you get it from Jerry Butz? You might consider how dirty and sweaty you'd be willing to get to save over $1,000 by doing your own bottom job. It's not rocket science! I do all my own bottom work on my 1979 Catalina 25 swing keel at home. Let us know if you need any guidance on installing the new rudder.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2005 : 20:20:29

Pretty Penny was owned by Jerry Mulvihills aka "Frog & the General"
Derek

Edited by - on

seastream
Navigator

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USA
242 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2005 : 21:32:37

Congratulations!

You're gonna love her!

Edited by - on

pjeffarch
Navigator

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USA
135 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2005 : 23:32:56

I'LL do the bottom job for $1000!
Seriously, if its not in terrible shape, save the dough and DIY.

Edited by - on

DaveC25
Navigator

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USA
152 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2005 : 00:27:21

Thanks Guys!

It's cool you guys recognize the boat's name. I bought her from a guy in Rockledge by the name of Dave Whitaker. He bought her about a year or two ago but never had time to do anything with her.

I was actually considering doing the bottom myself, but the paint is flaking off so I was afraid if I painted over it that it would flake off the new paint as well. Also, getting under where she sits on the trailer rails seems like it would be difficult. Any ideas? If there was a good idea on how to do it then I would certainly love to save the money. I already had priced the paint at $180 a gallon. (West Marine)

Also, Whitaker gave me some new sails with her, but I do not have a tiller. Does anyone know where I can get a tiller relatively cheap? West Marine had a couple (none for the C25) but they were $129 each.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll try to post a picture of her. I took today and refinished her hatch panels (sanded them down to wood then oiled them) as they were really weathered. Tomorrow I will do the hatch guides and top guides, and then try to re-seal the hull attachments. (rudder connection, outboard connection, and the trailer hook loop.

Thanks again for all the replies!

-Dave

Edited by - on

Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2005 : 06:22:04

Hey Dave
Sounds like you are on a great start.

You are correct in not painting over flaking paint. Surface prep is the most important aspect of any coating job. Check out the interlux website, you can get more information than you would ever want.
As far as tiller handles, or most any other part you would want, check out Catalina Direct. I recommend that you get their C25 owner's manual for 10 bucks, it's well worth it. Yes I know that when you get a new boat the money seems to flow out really fast. Once they get your boat on their computer, they can get you the right part. I'm a really big fan of them.
Good luck

Edited by - on

DaveC25
Navigator

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USA
152 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2005 : 13:11:34

Thanks for the tip on Interlux. I went there and requested thier CD.

I was planning on repainting her hull to a dark blue and her topside to a bright white. I think that would look really sharp.

Do any of you know whether or not the bottom antifouling paint can be had in different colors? The color of the paint that's on there is a brown, which just wouldn't go with the blue that I am looking at.

Thanks again!

Dave

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2005 : 14:07:02

Whoa big fella.
Give the boat a year before you paint the deck or topsides. That is a path of no return. A boat with paint that has gone bad looks much worse than a boat with gelcoat that is worn out. You will find that most of these old boats have had serious oxidation issues and most have opted to clean off the oxidation and either wax or restore the gelcoat with non abrasive products. have a look in the past posts, this is a late winter early spring subject.
Good job on buying the boat, you will love it.

Edited by - on

rclift
Navigator

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USA
152 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2005 : 14:11:19

I think if I were you I'd wait on the major repairs and upgrades such as a new bottom and recoating all the teak and painting the topsides. Rather, I'd do all the "have to" repairs such as a loose gungeon, the rudder pintles, the tiller, engine mount or any rigging issues. Do all the things that will make it safe and seaworthy. If you wait on some of the cosmetic things I think you'll find with research that there are some reasonable alternatives that may save you some money in the long run which will allow you to use your "boat units" for other cool stuff. For instance, the bottom paint may just be old and need to be lightly sanded and recoated which would be far less expensive then completely stripping the paint, applying a barrier coat and repainting. (expensive) I know that Leon and several others have come up methods of rolling the boat forward or aft on the trailer to work on the hull which I've used several times. Sanding down all the teak and applying oil will look great for a few months and then will have to be redone. Seems like most of the folks on this site either let the teak go "all natural" or use a product like cetol that doesn't need to redone as often.

Good luck with your new boat. Get out there and sail!!

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2005 : 16:02:21

"... repainting her hull to a dark blue"

Well, it is very do-able... but you should use LPU or similar 'full-on' paint to get durability ($$$). If you don't you'll be touching up nicks and scratches all the time. Prep and application requires a lot work... and some experience to get a good finish.

"whether or not the bottom antifouling paint can be had in different colors?"

Indeed, most brands will have a variety of colors available. IMHO The "Interlux CSC Micron" series and "Fiberglass Bottomcote ACT" are pretty good paints for trailerable sailboats. (not all paints tolerate dry-out cycles)

(3) Hydraulic bottle jacks, some wood blocking and old carpet for padding can be used to lift the hull clear of the trailer bunks. 'Blasting' with ice, crushed walnut shells or baking soda will clean the hull back to 'as new' gel coat in a few hours. Might see if somebody in your area does 'drive-by' service on this.

Putting a coat of bottom paint on the hull only takes a few hours.

Edited by - on

DaveC25
Navigator

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USA
152 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2005 : 13:47:29

Thanks again for the tips.

I've done alot of automotive painting (Base coat/Clear coat) and have a place to paint. As long as I can get the techniques and correct paint I don't feel I'll have a problem. Of course touching up is going to be an issue, but I don't mind touching her up now and then. I'm more tolerant than the average person I think. ;)

I will have to check to see if someone could do the "drive-by stripping." That would make it much easier to do the bottom painting myself.

I have another question for you guys: Where is the bilge pump normally located? I purchased one because I was told it didn't have one, but I'm not sure where it's supposed to go.

I thank you, and Pretty Penny thanks you. :)

-DaveC25

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2005 : 14:09:54

"Where is the bilge pump normally located? "

Did you buy an electrical or manual pump? Manual pumps mount
so they are accessable from the cockpit. Electrics usually
end up in the bilge under the sink and over towards the centerline.

Another thought about painting... what's the climate like where you sail? A dark colored boat will really 'cook' on hot days. Maybe why most boats are white.

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2005 : 17:35:02

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">A dark colored boat will really 'cook' on hot days. Maybe why most boats are white.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">"There are only two colors to paint a boat, black or white, and only a fool would paint a boat black" -- Nathanael G. Herreshoff<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

DaveC25
Navigator

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USA
152 Posts

Response Posted - 07/25/2005 : 18:15:16

Well, I live in Florida so I'm sure my boat will get hot, but I'll be sailing her in the Atlantic so hopefully the rail will be in the water alot cooling her off. :)

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"There are only two colors to paint a boat, black or white, and only a fool would paint a boat black" -- Nathanael G. Herreshoff
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

That's a funny quote, but that guy didn't live here in Florida. There are boats here of MANY different colors...alot of florescent colors as well. The little sea-doos are wild looking also.

I always thought a white deck on a dark blue hull would be really nice looking...so that's what she'll be. If I don't like it, I'll pull her out, strip her down, and paint her something else.

-Dave

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 07/25/2005 : 19:19:12

While advising against painting, (I agree with "that guy"

) I whole heartedly believe that you should do what you want, enjoy!

Edited by - on

DaveC25
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
152 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2005 : 06:43:45

:)

I realize that painting the boat is alot of work. However, because it's out of the water now I might as well do it. But I agree that perhaps I should leave it white and maybe just put a blue stripe on her or something.

The big thing is that I have to get rid of that brown! (it might have been red at one time) It just looks bad.

-Dave

PS: I understand that "that guy" was a great sailboat designer. ;)

Edited by - on

treuland
Deckhand

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USA
17 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2005 : 20:57:11

I just scanned your notes and noted you oiled the hatch panels. The best and easiest treatment for me is Sikkens. It holds up great to weathering and easy to recoat each year with just a light sanding and recoat.

As for bottom paint, I have used micron csc and lately micron csc plus which are ablating paints and only require a light sanding and recoating occasionally and tolerates haul outs. It comes in several colors. I've had a 1981 model since 1990 and its still doing well.

The best upper deck refurbishing I think is Vertglas.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2005 : 22:59:27

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by treuland
 I just scanned your notes and noted you oiled the hatch panels. The best and easiest treatment for me is Sikkens. It holds up great to weathering and easy to recoat each year with just a light sanding and recoat.

As for bottom paint, I have used micron csc and lately micron csc plus which are ablating paints and only require a light sanding and recoating occasionally and tolerates haul outs. It comes in several colors. I've had a 1981 model since 1990 and its still doing well.

The best upper deck refurbishing I think is Vertglas.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Welcome to the mine field. ...ultra sensitive subject, oil or Cetol.
I only know of one Cetol boat that doesn't look like a peeling derelict and it looks like perfect Cetol, which looks bad even when it is perfect. Oil or silver for me.

Edited by - on

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