Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Greetings to all. I have been lurking here for about a week, waiting to finalize purchase on 1979 C25, Hull # 1435. Did so yesterday. My compliments to the members and Sysop--wonderful forum. I have some sailing experience, but stepped off my last deck 13 years ago. I am caught in the following quandary: 1. Much of what I might have known, I have forgotten. 2. Much I never learned. 3. MyGod things have changed. Got new West catalog and passed out from prices and variety of new stuff. This old boat counts as a project boat, which, as an old retired guy is what I was looking for, so there will be a tremendous amount of work to do. This forum seems to be a dream for the project. A couple of quick questions to get me past the time constraints of boat moving and yard work. 1. What paint is being recommended for roll and tip procedure on topsides. I've done it before (1982) and think I used some Interlux product, but not sure what. I want to use a one part poly. 2. Halyard sizes. I think this boat has original wire/rope halyards which have eaten the masthead sheaves. Will change to all rope. Will the fittings accomodate 7/16 line? 3. Re Belllpat Marine replacement sheaves, do they know exactly which sheaves to send for a C25? 4. Does anyone have a good (cheap) source for standing rigging?
Sorry this got a little long. I would really appreciate any help I can get, though. Time is a little sensitive. I will be limited in yard time and there are no stores in this area, so will have to mail order everything in advance.
Sysop... haven't heard that for a while! Welcome. 7/16... no, you could tow a train with modern 7/16 line! 5/16-3/8 no more, a lot of us replaced the wire crap with 1/4", layline.com is the best source, call them for the answers you want on cordage. Bellpat does a custom sheave for us, they know what you want. A lot of us pay about $400 for standing rigging from catalinadirect.com it does not include the backstay, (too many options on backstays).
Charles, Welcome and you have certainly come to the right place for help with a nice sailboat. We look forward to hearing more from you, and helping if we can. I don't know anything about topsides paint, or replacing wire halyards. But others here do.
"What paint is being recommended for roll and tip procedure on topsides"
I've used Pettit 'Easypoxy' to good effect. It's not as durable as the 'full-on' LPU paints but is very easy to work with. Two people are needed in warm weather, one applying, one tipping.
I'd really think twice before painting the topsides... I'd be inclined to try to buff out and coat with one of the new polymer glazes first. (said, not knowing your boat's situation)
IMHO: 5/16" Halyards work fine... as will the Bellpat sheaves.
The pre-made standing rigging from Catalina Direct is pretty decent stuff.
Catalina Direct is a good source. if you dont have their catalog you can call 800 959 7245. i thinks its 12 bucks or so. even if you dont buy what you need from them, you can get a lot of info from the catalog. they also have a tech support line at 916 843 1971. theyve always been very helpful to me. they are also online as im sure youve already fugured out.
If you are familiar with Interlux, I don't see a need to change. In refitting Abegweit, I used both the one and two part polys. Both can be rolled and tipped or sprayed. I've used the one part on two boats and it puts on a nice finish, and the two part is definetely alot more scratch resistant. Several of use on this site have done extensive refits of these boats and are willing to share our know how.
Welcome, Charles. I too, am retired and a new C25 owner, ('79 swingkeel). At first, I thought I would only take a month out of water to retro and sail the rest of the season in a beautiful boat. Hah! Now, never mind. My swingkeel is now fixed and I'm relaunching to SAIL! Will haul for a bottom job in the winter. My deck gelcoat is worn through to the fiberglass in many places. I've rec'd many great opinions on this excellent forum. However, I'm just going to sail now and do one project at a time like most everyone else. I was in Kemah, TX, the other day and a boatyard owner suggested that I prep the deck and take it to Earl Scheib and let him shoot the deck for me. An interesting thought... What do you sailors think about that?
Do you mean to shoot the deck with a new coat of Gel? I would look at the cost/value ratio, but it's your call. It would look nice though. And when you prep the deck (to properly, I assume you strip all hardware, etc.) it would be a great time to update/refinish all the deck fiitings, hardware, brightwork, etc. I'd be jealous of that one since you would have to have a good shop to be able to do all that work in. I only have an apartment with a 5'x 6' closet to work in.
What Frank said.....an autobody guy on the Columbia River painted his Cal 25 with auto paint about 10 years ago. It STILL looks "freaky good".
You might check on Sterling paint??? I think they make a 2 part that is roll/tip ready. The one part Easy Poxy is Easy alright, but 2 years later? Poxy. I would only paint the dink with 1 part. Just my opinion....
Frank, Could you take a picture of the boat that was painted so we can see what the finished finish looks like? I had never thought of that, but find the idea very intriguing. Thanks- Tim
Many years ago I helped a fellow paint a Morgan 30 with the then-new twopart polyurethane Interlux product. We were both very experienced boat painters with the conventional paints of the time. We were astonished at the characteristic of that very thin paint to show every imperfection on the hull surface, and we thought we had done a pretty through job of preparation. Before you use one of these paints with the "roll-tip" method, I urge you to correspond or talk with people who have done this lately, and get the latest poop. The prep work is everything, and next comes following the application instructions to the letter, no "after product fails, read can" baloney. I have seen some loathsome results. Having said all this, when done right, the outcome is spectacular and well worth the effort. Good luck, Ron srsk Orion SW FL
Thanks to all for the info. I have ordered a lot of expensive paint. Hope to have the boat up here in the next couple of weeks to get started. Hasn't rained in over a month. Watch it go now.
Just to add my two cents worth. Last summer I was determined to repaint the non-skid on my boat. It had faded badly and I felt that when my boat was new, the contrast between the white deck and what I thought was a very beige non-skid area must have looked very sharp. So thats what I wanted to acheive. Read alot of different articles, and post right here. More than a few seemed to think it a bad idea. But I went ahead and bought the Interlux 2 part poly. paint, color of my choice Grand Bank. I knew however that it would be much more shiny than I wanted for the non-skid, so I also bought a can of the flatner, made specifically for Interlux paint, it's mixed with the paint and cuts the shine effectively. One note of caution however, the more you add, the thinner the paint becomes. I only wanted one coat, so I measured carefully. The other trick is not to diminish the grip of the non-skid. One coat I feel does not jepordize it greatly.
As Ron just mentioned the prep work is everything. Including removing the handrails, for a cleaner look. Then it's a de-greaser, sanding lightly, acetone, wash, one last swipe with acetone and finally paint on. I was, and am very pleased with the results. The contrast between the non-skid and the rest of the white deck is quite noticeable.
I'd recommend it to anyone that doesn't mind the work.
Mike--it looks like I am on a similar track. I ordered the two part for the plain deck and cockpit areas, figuring that they would be subject to the most wear and would need the scratch resistance. I ordered one part (Brightside)for the insert. That mave have been a mistake.My non skid is about gone anyway. I learned from WM that there is a flattening agent for the Brightside paint, but they forgot to put it in the catalog. Last time I did this (1983) I made the mistake of putting too dark a shade of gold on the non-skid. This was in New Orleans. Following year repainted in a nice light beige. Trying a lilght bluethis time. It is amazing how hot a deck can get when painted just a couple of shades darker than white.
Pictures ? Right. That would be a new run for me. I have a digital camera, but haven't yet posted any pictures here. I'd like yall to see the deck however, if painting the non-skid has done one thing it's made alot of folks think my boat is newer than it is. So many classic Catalina's seem to have a solid white deck, with little or any definition beteen the non-skid and solid smooth areas. I'm sure after a few years it will require some touch up, but so what!
Interlux Brightside is exactly what I used. I have always been pleased with their products, having also used Interlux bottom paint as well as the barrier coat system. I too at first bought an incorrect color for the non-skid, I think it was off white or something close, it just didn't look that much different from the deck. So I went with the Grand Banks which is a kinda of funky(in a good way) greenish taupe. The flattner is an important ingredient to help cut some of the shine that comes with Brightside paint, I didn't want shiny non-skid. Perhaps there's another product that could be used straight out of the can, offer a good array of colors and be as tough as Brightside has proven to be so far, but I'm not aware of it.
Well, happy day. We moved her yesterday. I had to drive her around to the launching ramp and quickly remembered how many years it has been since I steered with tiller and outboard. I did learn that "the watcher" is still on the dock. Some things never change. Fortunately, this was a nice, friendly Watcher who helped me get straightened out. Spent today sanding. Hope to paint next week and launch in a week or two. I learned that Easy off oven cleaner works almost as well as acetone in removing the painted on name, and that acetone works almost as well as sandpaper. Some more things never change.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.